Help To A New User. Steering Wheel And Break Servo.cortina Front.

[Guest nutter]

hi.. i am very new to this kit cat thing so i need a bit help regarding few things about my robinhood.

1st i would like to remove break servo from it as it feels very sogy (not sharp) should i remove it completly(what to do vac pipe from inlet manifold) or change it, i have red about using ka break cylinder if i buy one how hard it will be to change it as i think i have standard padal box from cortina. secondly i have a very very low steering i want to increase the height. there are two ways either go for sierra adjustable steerinf or modify current wheel it seems a very straight forward job( bit of cutting and welding), but only thing comes in my mind is a round bar which is welded acros the frame if i cut that and make a bend in it will it be ok or i am compromising with structural strength? and at last i have cortina front axle(ugly one) it is bit rusty i want to get it sand blasted and poder coated . when i looked at it t looks its just beeen bolted to chasis looks like only few big bolta holding it to chasis. is theer anything i m missing in removing it and what do i need to be carefull with removing it or getting it blasted.. many many thnx to all of you in advance..i have attached few pics to show what i am asking for.

thnx javed.

[Guest nutter]

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[Guest robinj66]

You might find that some of the spongey feeling is actually flexing when you press the brake pedal. This was a problem on my S7 (Sierra running gear and brakes) and I had to introduce a frame from angle-iron to stop it. [On your car this would go between the bulkhead and the sheet with the servo support legs attached].

 

Spongeyness could also be down to air in the system . If you want to check the action of the brakes withoput the servo then just disconnect the vacuum hose at one end. If you want to remove the servo permanently then you will need to plug the vacuum outlet.

[Guest nutter]

thnx alot..good point i will definatly chech that frame work tomorow and bleed the brakes and see how it goes.. i did my carb today (still submerged in petrol) and found that auto choke(water run) was v bad and looking to convert it into manual(fingers crossed) after rebuilding do i need to tune the carb or how can i make sure that that carb it perfactly jetted for my pinto . thnx for help.. taa

[Longboarder]

Very interesting. Your builder was a real beef it up merchant of the 'more metal is better' type. He has welded a crossbar to the sides of the engine bay to support the pedals/pedal box/servo/steering shaft. There is a ton of metal above this and the servo is mounted off this swaying structure in space on it's own four angled legs. He has hacked a way the horizontal part of the bulkhead and some of its strength to get the steering shaft through. The whole design is rubbish! I'm not surprised the brake pedal is spongy. I expect it is the whole lot waggling under the influence of your foot.

I think the first thing you should do is have a friend sit in the car and press hard on the brakes while you watch the structure move. Then sit and have a think about wether you can improve it with additions or take it all out and look at a radical redesign. Strip all the supporting structure off 'on paper', draw the essential car structure in side view, draw the pedal components in side view and in their relative positions and then think about what structure you can put in to properly support them all. Incidentally the servo should have two studs on the back which mount it flush on a plate, not those legs.

 

As an alternative to all this you might just like to put in the bottom back corner to front top corner braces to stabilise what you have. Same sort of deal on the servo legs would improve it. But it is heading towards 2 tons and screams at you.

 

Nigel

OK the pictures are a bit pale below but they are there! I haven't put in the steering shaft. Support from solid structures start with the front plate between pedal box and servo. That could be a front and a base in 5mm plate bent at a right angle(ish) extending back to the bulkhead. Support the top with a horizontal and triangulate each side with a diagonal bottom left to top right like the second pic. Then you are thinking should the welded crossbar be moved to fit in with this, reduced in size, how to make it work round the steering shaft. Even do you need it or can you replace the horizontal part of the bulkheads strength.

 

Kit cars are a state of mind. Nothing is fixed or standard. You change/invent/make it up based on sound principles. I'm no engineer, expect and ask for criticism of this sort of drawing from those with an engineering background. It can only improve things.

[Guest nutter]

tham you very much nigel.. i did vheck and thats true there is a bit structure movement there when padal is pressed. so definatly will weld few things to make is more rigid and strong.. just another question in ur pics your brake servo is perfacly horizontal mine is bit on up angle does that make any diffrence if i make it perfactly horizontal? had my front end sand blasted and primed it up( looks nice) i am looking to do a small engine overhaul like replacing all the sals and gaskets. and going to shorten the sump as said in this post

http://nw.rhocar.org/sump.htm

any suggestion ? what i should be carefull of wen g the engne apart. my cam looks bit worn(standard cam) i will post pics should i change it to standard one or performance one( i am not going to track n stuff just cruising)i have rebuild the carb and waiting for manual choke to come so i can get rid off auto one.

will update sooon on my progress .. thnx again. javed.

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[Guest robinj66]

I think you have found the cause of your "soggy" pedal - I had to install a framework to get my (later, Sierra based) S7 through an SVA - the tester said the whole mechanism was moving when the pedal was pressed (Will try and find pictures of my overkill solution later)

 

There shouldn't be any problems if you make your servo horizontal (as long as the fluid reservoir still holds sufficient fluid) - I did this on my Cobra. You will however have to alter the length of the pushrod between the servo and the pedal.

[Guest nutter]

seering sorted. engine all done and looking v good. but bit stuck now on my carb anyone near slough area who is willing to help?