Immobiliser Wiring

[Guest Stephen Robertson]

Hi Guys

 

I Have just dug out an old immobiliser I had fitted to a previous car. I Am intending to use it in my 2B as I believe it is a requirement for SVA. I no longer have any fitting instructions or wiring diagrams for it , I have emailed the manufacturer for help but as yet have recieved no reply. I am attaching a photo of the unit a SHURLOCK IM/ FP15B with the hope that somebody out there has a idea of how to wire this up as it would save me the cost of a new one.

 

Cheers

 

Stephen

[Guest rizla]

i think the only thing thats needed for sva is a steering lock not a imobilizer

[Guest peter2b2002]

Hi , the only thing you need for the SVA is a stearing lock, don't bother any more wiring as you will have enough to do anyway

cheers Pete2b

[Guest Guy]

I'll third that! The SVA says 2 methods of anti theft device are needed and one has to be mechanical. To satisfy this requirement the first is the electrical ignition switch and the second is the steering lock, both are controlled by the key.

 

That has saved you a lot of wiring Steve

[Guest Sean Timney]

Mmmmm...went to see a hoodie from Norton on Saturday (Tony)...and he failed SVA at Gosforth (Newcastle) for not having an immobiliser fitted ...that was only a couple of weeks ago....didn't check to see if he had added a starter button to the dash....i'll ask him when I return his chassis punches!...... so, if he still has the ignition on the key and his steering lock worked (need to clarify both), then it appears that Mr Gosforth has other idea's.....damn, i'm going there in a few weeks hopefully for my test......... anyone know a cheap source for immobilisers at short notice?

 

Sean..

[Guest Charles B]

I and Chris P both passed at Gosforth with ignition lock and key. We both had battery isolators fitted as well. My advice is fit an isolator with a removable key, much more useful than an immobiliser, particularly if you get an electrical fire!

Cheap as well.

[Guest timswait]

I passed SVA with just the key, it's all the Sierra has after all. The thing is, it's really not very secure, you could probably hot wire it in under thirty seconds, and I'm told that the steering lock will snap off if it's levered with a long enough crow-bar.

An isolator switch isn't much better, the one I've got you could jam a pencil in and make it work, I've got it more as a safety cut out in the event of fire than as a security device. I've got the Microscan imobiliser unit from Demon Theives, it's about £60 but I think it's quite good, thatcham cat 2 if proffesionally fitted (mine wasn't, what's the point when I've done all the other electrics!). I reckon it would take me about half an hour with the bonnet up and a multimeter out to hot wire my car, and I fitted it!

Can you not work out your immobilser's wiring from the car you removed it from. There'll probably be an earth, a +ve 12V supply, and one or more pairs of wires which are switched by the immobiliser. In addition there may be outputs for a flashing LED and inputs from a antennae or key switch.

[Guest Stephen Robertson]

Hi Guys

 

Ok I misunderstood the SVA and I agree the immobiliser is not required But as i Have it may as well use it.

 

I think I remember reading in a mag that it very unusal for a kit to be stolen, but it would be really east to hot wire, so way not make it a bit harder.

 

I have found the power and earth wires , the wires to the led and key but that still leaves me with 2 wires with no where to go , and they are all black so no clues there.

 

Cheers

 

Stephen

[Guest paul thompson]

What ou need to do is wire it up and see what pairs of wires are made as a circuit when de activated. I have an immobiliser and it cuts 2 ciruits, one being the starter solenoid, the other the engine management. That way even if someone manages to make the starter spin, it will still not start as the brain is dead. Th reason for the wires being all black is so that you cannot tell what wire does what when installed, making it that much more difficult to bypass the immobilser. My wires dissapear into the main wiring loom as soon as they leave the box of tricks. I'd have a hell of a job finding out where they go. Fortunatley I know where to look as I know what circuits are isolated. You could isolate the wipers if you wanted to but that won't stop oik nicking the car.

[Guest Charles B]

If you want a really good immobiliser, a well hidden fuel cut off tap takes some beating. Whatever immobiliser you fit on a Hood will take about ten seconds to get round,(unless you have injection), a wire clipped from coil to battery, and a screwdriver across the back of starter, and you are away.