Back Panel

[Guest Alan Harrison]

I'm starting to get Paranoiac. Every time I drill a hole or make a cut these days it seem to be half an inch out when I come to fit the part. I am attempting to fit the back panel. The video clearly says "bend the top 3/4 inch over on to the square rail(the one with the top seat belt lugs on). Easily achieved by lining up the left and right cutaways to the top of the bar!!!!!!!!!! **** it - is there somthing wrong with my eyes or does everyone else see the left hand cut out at 3/8ths inch and the right hand one at 1 1/8 inches. So what is there to line up on? I could line up as is and have the panel at an angle... but will I have to fill a hole down one side and cut a chunk of the other side? Cut out a bit more from the left side cut out... but will it reach the bottom? Or just slap it in any old how and not give a toss. Phew! this should be an easy bit. I started out really keen to make a first rate build, but this is getting to be hard work.

 

Would beer help?

[Guest daveg]

Alan

 

I know exactly how you feel, I just spent 2 days trying to weld my sump and I still ain't happy with it

 

I don't remember having problems with the seat back panel. I just fitted it central. My advice is to use plenty of clamps before drilling. If you think this panel is difficult - just wait until you do the side panels

 

Dave

[Guest Battery Bill]

Hi Alan

Yes our back panel fitted (or didnt) just like yours.

In the end you just have to drill and use a big hammer to bend it how you like it. It will work in the end whatever way you choose to do it, have faith.

Our left hand side seemed to fit much better than the right hand side, and I have no idea why the angled slots are cut (about Shoulder height If you were sitting in the car) I suppose they make fitting easier using a smaller hammer. But ours ended up in totally different places and I pondered for a while thinking "Is this right" I came to the conclusion that there is no right way to fit these panels only your own way.

And yes beer does seem to help.

Bill and Joey

[Guest Battery Bill]

Dave

You still had no luck with your sump then?

You will be beating my record soon, I have never done any courses in welding, I taught myself by buying an 1984 Escort for £50 and re-plated it. I have managed pretty well until I tried the sump, one thing that might help you to keep trying is that it costs over £70 to send it off for someone else to do (advertised on RHOcar)

Do you not know anyone who will do it for you? I was glad I swallowed my pride and let my mate Lee do it and it only cost £30.

Good luck

Bill and Joey

[Guest Alan Harrison]

Thanks for the replys chaps. I'm feeling better now.

 

I got my sump welded beautifully by a friend of a friend for £20. Only after after forking out £250 on mig gear though. After weeks of practice I can produce a fair replica of bird poo in solid metal. Oh! in my excitment at finding someone that can weld, I forgot to give him my drain plug and pickup pipe.

 

I must be gettin old

 

where's my beer

[Guest TerryBarry]

Mine was similar.

In the end I marked the "average" centre line of the panel and aligned this with the centre of the square tube drilled about five holes evenly spaced - then used self tappers to secure it in position.

I then attacked the bottom and the sides.

Those self tappers were then in and out like the proverbials in a colander whilst I shaped up the bottom, sides and tunnel.

The centre cut out for the tunnel seemed to come out OK - ended up reasonably central and I've got clearance on the rear propshaft u/j.

The bottom where it meets the floor is slightly different one side to the other but it fits and seems reasonably square. The cut outs for the inner rear trailing arm mountings needed a bit of trimming to fit.

The sides where they come round to the curved chassis rails are best described as " Fit where they touch" except they don't touch anywhere. I'm going to make up little infill panels later.

HTH

Terry

[Guest TerryBarry]

Here's a piccy of rear panel

[Guest Paul S Usowicz]

Hi

 

I decided that I just wasn't willing to accept a beaten, ill-fitting rear panel so got my mate to weld in some bars that will allow me to have a flat seat-back panel. I'll post some piccys when I get them developed.

 

Cheers

Paul S Usowicz

[Guest Guy]

I did my back panel last weekend, I bent the bottom up and the sides over then lined up the top on the square tube and held it with a few G-clamps.

 

I plated in the gaps as best I could but I think I'm still going to get wet so I'm going to use expanding foam to seal it.

 

I'm glad it's all going to be carpeted!

[Guest Angel Boy]

All this sounds very familiar with the back panel. I think I went for the best fit approach using clamps and when I was "happiest" I drilled. It is going to get covered (that is if you are going to cover it of course). Used a suitably large hammer to get the corners looking like corners.

 

Andy

(Hull)

[Guest Julian B]

I seem to remember that when i was building my 2b there were several additional pannels i had to make up to fill the gaps.

 

You may (will) also find a great big gap between the side pannel and back pannel when you come to fit that bit.

 

Also dont forget if you are going down the "tunnel top hand brake" route, that the hand brake cable will have to pass through the back pannel in some way!

 

Good luck

Julian Brewer

[Guest Mr Pid]

Mine was a poor fit as well, went through about 50 drill bits trying to drill the top rail, once it was in a friendly hammer made it fit properly.

 

Now its carpetted you cant even notice the grief i had fitting it, the seats cover most of it anyway. Still looks a bit poo with the petrol tank poking through though.

 

I think beer and persevearance are your best bet.

 

(ps got very sunburnt fitting it as after the protective film is removed on the stainless it is very efficient at reflecting sunlight from every angle, including up your shorts and under your arms) :angry:

[Guest Sean Timney]

Hi guys, just picked up my 2B last weekend and i've had this week off work (the pain of it).......i've fitted my seat back panel but its a mess (some heavy beating with a hammer and a lot of swear words)....Richard bends the panel on the video with the greatest of ease......not so with the stainless one!!!!.....was a right pain.....and it looks cack....it was soooo difficult to bend......i'm a bit miffed with it, but it's gonna get covered anyway.........just need to think of a way to fill the gaps!!!!!!

 

 

Regards,

 

Sean........

[Guest MJTyke]

Masking tape/parcel tape stuck over the hole followed by GRP solved the trick for me (the tape comes off afterwards, its only there to provide a surface to lay the glass). Silicon sealer & a couple of self tappers secures it.

 

If you do the same down the interior sides to create a double skin you can fill inbetween with expanding foam, less space but I think gives a better finish.

[Guest Peter n the better half]

The problem that we all have is that wonderful spare inch(that is refered to on the video).

useful in some cases but a nightmare in others.

 

All i can say is stick at it. And of course if it doesnt fit ....... try a bigger hammer.

 

Plenty of wood blocks and ease it into place. once its there fix it and move around a bit.

Start at the top and work round. It was the only way it would go in straight on the 2B im building.

 

Good luck ...