Oil Additives ..?

[Guest Takumi]

has anyone used oil additives with any noticable results..??

ive just added Molyslip E to my 1.5D, and Molyslip G to the gearbox, I have noticed its not a noisy driving... but maybe its placebo..

 

I was at the Newark show and was lured into a demo by Active8 oil additives.. and the demo looked very pursuasive, has anyone been had by active8 ??

 

their additive is a Chlorinated Hydrocarbon, that has a small mM and so, like molybdenum di-sulphate, forms a layer that slips..

 

but what they wont thell you is that after a period 6 months or so, the chlorinated Hydrocarbons degrades, and decomposes within the oil..

This degradation causes the formation of acidic compounds within your oil. HCL, or Hydro-Chloric Acid. This accelerates the wear of your engine hugly, so dont be fooled into thinking these Chlorinated Oils are a wonder in lubrication..

 

I still think Molyslip products are the best..

PTFE (Teflon) products are the next best thing from molybdenmu di-sulphate, but the PTFE molecules can clump together and clob your filter, resulting in a lower oil pressure (lethal for pinto's) molybdenum di-sulphate is a polar molecule and so mostly stays out of the mass flow of the oil, as it bonds strongly to metal surfaces..

[Guest chris]

I used a teflon type additive with the best intensions.I cant be sure,but shortly after(about 500 miles)I noticed increased noise from the cam shaft.Sure enough,

after removing cam cover,one of the cam lobes was noticebly(?)worn.I cant be sure, but my theory is that the oil clogged up one of the holes in the spray bar.

I have now had to replace the cam.DOH! I will now stick to good old 20/50

chris

[Guest daveg]

My 2p worth

 

Don't waste your money......if the additive is any good then the oil giants would add it at source!

 

Buy oil with API SL rating or ACEA A3 and get the right viscosity (i.e 5W-30 etc)

 

Dave

[Guest Phil Slater]

This is gonna sound a bit vague because I recently lost all my "Favourites" addresses in a computer crash but there is an American site that I looked at recently which deals with a lot of the additives that claim to improve the effectiveness of your engine oil. If I remember correctly they have put the claims made in adverts to the test and when they failed to match up to the claims, as most did, they then took the companies to court so they have had to change their ads......in the USA that is...... over here some of the claims are still appearing in adverts!!!!! The general consensus, I think was that regular, good quality oil and filter changes were the most cost effective solution. If I find the address I'll post it.

 

Phil Slater

[Guest Phil Slater]

Bl***y amazing.

 

Just found the address:

 

www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/index.html?menu.html&tyre_bible.html

 

Hopefully this will take you straight to the page on additives. if it doesn't look up the page on Engine Oil Additives

 

Phil Slater

[Guest paul thompson]

I am currently dealing with Esso at work on an issue and we have been discussing oil additives for Power steering, but the theory applies to all oils. Esso spend millions a year paying very clever chemists to make their oils perform better. If you buy decent oil in the first place you get all the additive packages anyway. Semi synthetic is just that, Mineral oil with additive packages, viscosity modifiers, friction modifiers and oxidiation inhibitiors. Buy the good stuff and stop bunging it in afterwards!

[Guest cjbailey]

Phil, I think this is the page you are looking for (just a direct link!) Click Here!

[Guest daveg]

All

 

Buy the good stuff and stop bunging it in afterwards!

 

And how do you tell? Well API SL rating and/or ACEA A3 are the American and European highest standards respectively...well for petrol engine oil anyway

 

Dave

[Guest Takumi]

if oil from the shop was soo good that it almost eliminated friction with extra magic ingredients , then car manufacturers would be left with engines and gearboxes that dont wear out, and their after sales support ( where 2/3 of their revenues come from) would decline..

 

thats why oil is not as good as it could be..

 

use MolySlip..

 

tak

[Guest daveg]

Tak

 

then car manufacturers would be left with engines and gearboxes that dont wear out

 

Interesting conspiracy theory....but I don't go along with it....it would mean manufacturers relying on third parties (Castrol/Esso/Halfords) to make their engines wear out

 

And the Euro/usa standards organisations would have to be kept quite.

 

Nope, don't waste your money....do you have shares in

 

MolySlip

 

Dave

[Guest Simon cooper]

Well, not sure about all the chemistry stuff, But have used Active 8 for years and never had a problem. Thing is, unless you blow an engine, you will not know if it works or not??????

I have however, had an engine that should have grenaded itself when it blew an oil cooler pipe at about 7,500 rpm and ran for a further 15 seconds before I switched off, with not a mark of damage to the crank. If I had not used Active 8, you tell me, would i still be racing it? I think not.

Simon

[Guest alan rowe]

Hi Simon

Interesting to read your comments regarding Active8 especially after what was said by Takumi and that damage will occur after 6 months

Has anybody else got any experience good or bad regarding using Active8 ?

 

Alan

[Guest Takumi]

I read an article on the net on a Suzuki Owners club site somewhere, Suzuki tested the effects of running 2 engines for 24hrs const. and then draining the oil completely from one, and then run them both again for another 24hrs.

 

Upon dismantling there was little difference in component wear, eg bearing shells ect. sounds unbelievable..

 

This is not B*llSh*it, I asure you.

 

Debris particles, like metals ect accelerate the surface wear. But on clean surfaces the wear is not that fast, so you can appreciate why so little difference was ovserved between these 2 test engines..

 

yee haarrr

 

Molyslip is king