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Series 7 Engine Removal


Guest Anthony B

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Guest Anthony B

Hi all

I am in desperate need of some advice, if anyone can help.

 

I have recently managed to gouge a hole in the sump of my S7 (monocoque type) built in 1997.

 

I have maanged to find a new sump and modify it by cutting and fitting the extension as per Jim's instructions.

 

The only question is, can the sump be removed from below, to be honest it looks too tight to get the old one off with too little room as imposed by the floorpan.

 

Secondly, if I have to take the engine out, is there sufficient clearance to move the engine forward to disengage the gearbox input shaft from the clutch. I have assumed I will have to remove all of the engine ancilliries first along with the radiator/fan etc. This should give me approx 80mm of fan depth and 40 or 50mm of radiator depth to play with.

My only other question is will the exhaust (tubular type) allow the engine to lift out.

 

Many thanks in anticipation...planning the job for next Tuesday so answers before then would be great.

 

Ta

Ant

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Ant

 

1997 "monocoque" could be a series llla, in which case I have managed to "trim" some of my engine floor (with the proverbial 4" angle grinder) to allow for the removal of the sump.

 

Removing the ancilleries allows for the removal of the engine OK (just). If you have the RH 4 into 1 exhaust a little "persuasion" may be needed to get it past the studs, some people have replaced these with bolts to make life a little easier.

 

Good Luck

Nick

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There's a topic further down in this forum about the problems of getting the sump off with the engine in. I have an S7 too - getting the engine out is no problem. There is enough room to separate the engine and gearbox - it only has to go forward by a couple of inches. You will have to remove the fan if using the viscous unit and removing the radiator would be sensible - even if you can squeeze the engine out past it, one small dink will ruin it.

 

While the engine's out take the chance to inspect the engine bay for cracks, especially where the floor disappears under the footwells, check the gearbox oil etc

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Guest Anthony B

Thanks for the tips gents!

 

In my impatience and fear of lifting heavy things, I have taken the route of trimming the engine bay floor. On the off side this is pretty easy, merely cutting the loose edge back to the folded engine skid side member. These loose edges are going to be welded back onto the base of the folded section.

 

The near side is a bit more tricky due to the offset in the sump, it is necessary to actually cut part of the folded part away, a length of approx 8 inches. I have made up a bolt in subframe out of 20mm box section in a sort of cut off blunt V that I will be bolting in place to put some of the rigidity back. In fact, it seems stronger than before.

 

There is now loads of room around the bottom of the engine which I guess will help cooling now air has somewhere to get away.

 

I will be modifying the sump I take off as well as a test of my welding skills so if anyone is after one in the near future give me a shout.

 

Cheers

Ant

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You can get the sump out by just trimming back the floor sides, but not the folded skids, these are what give you the strength in the engine bay.

take off the silencer, and manifold, remove the rad, undo both engine mountings, place a trolley jack with a block of wood on underneathe the gearbox bell hsg, and jack up the engine, wriggling it slightly so that you get it up as far as possible as the bell hsg. touches the tunnel top. Trim the floor as said, the sump will come out now, you will have to tip it around a bit & swear at it, then it will just fall off.

I would suggest you get another sump & pipe from a scrappy first and prepare them, so that it's just a straight swap over, you don't really want your g/box etc balancing on a jack whilst you play at welding holes in the sump.

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