Which Fuel Lines?

[Guest johnboymac]

any comments of what you have used for fuel lines - where you got them and price etc? I have a 2l efi so particularly interested to hear from people in a similar position - (Guy, Ant?)

I had a look at a fuel line kit from tifosi for £35 but not sure if the lengths they supply are long enough.

 

cheers, John

[Guest Ant]

I used 8mm stainless pipe, but it's a bugger to bend to shape and fit neatly - I don't recommend it. I only used it because it's what we use on the rigs at work ... hence it was free.

 

Doing it again I'd just use 8mm I/D rubber fuel hose. Dead simple. Hold it in place with plastic P clips from Maplin. Just make sure it can't get trapped anywhere, and it isn't pulled too tightly.

 

Ant

[Guest Guy]

I use the 'one kit one donor' approch on enything I can, it's the Robin Hood way you know, so I used the fule lines out of the Sierra.

 

I've also used Sierra wires, seats, belts, clips, brake pipes, metel cut out of the doors, rubbers, nuts, bolts, washers, hoses, switches, plastic cut from the interier, and the foam from the back seats.

 

Yes I'm a cheep skate vulture and Richard would be proud of me

[Guest johnboymac]

Im trying to stick to that philosophy, but my donor was a dog (not literally obviously, I wouldn't want to upset animal lovers, but could you imagine the threads it would generate - "can you fit an alsation under the bonnet??")

 

anyhoo back to reality, the rear seats were 'minging' so had to go, the foam was very soggy, the useable panels such as door skins were perforated, so no use, it had been sitting in water on the nearside, so front and rear brakes on that side needed renewed, the fuel line was corroded in part, so I dont trust the rest of it, and oh yeah, it had a cvh engine, so I had to replace that as well ;-) basically a few teething troubles.

 

On the plus side, the horn from the donor was A-ok......

 

 

thanks to you both for your replies.

John

[Guest Feek]

FWIW, I used 8mm copper pipes with stainless braid over rubber at each end of each pipe. From BGC motorsports (good eggs), but for the copper, B&Q would probably do it!

 

Only coz I had to use the Sierra fuel lines to splice into my wife's car in an emergancy situation...

 

F.

[Guest Mr Pid]

Yeh i used the 8MM pipe from B&Q, well tell a lie, havent actually done it yet but i am intending to replace all the fuel lines with this.

 

Mainly cos it is much safer and stronger, the less things i have to worry about going wrong the better!

 

Found the sierra ones a stubburn pain in the arse, and am spending a fortune on rubber hose, so a one piece copper job either way should do the trick nicely!

 

Stu

[Jon Bradbury]

I used a plastic fuel line for carb flow & return but it hasn't got any markings on it. The motor factor sold it as fuel line and it certainly feels the same (tough, etc) as the plastic pipe on the donor. It is very easy to lay / bend / etc as its flexible and doesn't hold a curve like copper does.

 

You have to be more careful with an EFI engine because the pressure is much higher on the flow line from the pump. So make sure whatever you buy is rated accordingly, and carefully consider your joints to make sure they are up to the task. I don't think the old "rubber pipe over fuel line plus jubilee clip" solution - tried and trusted by all pre SVA - is going to do the job.

 

In fact, forget about jubilee clips, you need to use the proper petrol pipe clips for this application otherwise Mr SVA will fail you.

 

Does anyone else want to comment on the requirements pressure-wise for plumbing in an EFI system?

[Guest dajimmy]

Hears an idear chaps. I repaced a set of nylon fuel hoses on a polo recently. 3 nylon hoses with brass inserts in the ends (those with out conecters on)about 2meters long each for a tenner! I`ll get the part number if anyones interested

[Guest paul thompson]

Here's a note to all the chaps thinking of using the plastic (semi rigid) lines, it is made from Nylon 12 called Polyamide. In production it is formed at 165 degrees (that's gas mark 4). if you put a wire down the inside and bend it to shape, and can fit it in the oven (when the missus isout of course) then heat it for 10 mins then let it cool, when you pull out the wire it will retain the shape you bent it to. I did this when I repalced the brake vac hose (OK I used a brake pipe with a long spring to help it stay round but I had access to the gear as my mate works for a company that makes these things) and "cooked" in the oven, pulled out the brake tube and presed the non return valve and the booster connection in, fits like it was made for the job instead of that wayward sierra thingy. It melts at 180 deg C by the way so be careful you get the gas mark thing right, it can also be done very carefully with a hot air gun but this is tricky.

 

I used steel lines coated with Zinc and PVDF which is the industry standard now. Copper lines will work but are very soft and need to be protected from blows so down the tunnel with them, just don't ever use Biodiesel it rots copper like a godun.

 

If using an EFI then rubber hose has to take the 3.5 bar that the pump delivers, most motor factors sell this as it has an internal braiding it is eay to identify.

 

Hope that helps

[Guest Ant]

You have to be more careful with an EFI engine because the pressure is much higher on the flow line from the pump. So make sure whatever you buy is rated accordingly, and carefully consider your joints to make sure they are up to the task. I don't think the old "rubber pipe over fuel line plus jubilee clip" solution - tried and trusted by all pre SVA - is going to do the job.

 

I have EFi, with rubber fuel hose pushed over stainless fuel pipe, and held on with jubilee clips. It passed SVA no problems. That's also exactly what we use at work when setting up engines on dynamometer test beds.

 

I can see the advantages of using the 360 degree petrol pipe clips rather than jubillee clips, but I passed without them and I've had no leaks so far!

 

On the pressure front, it's not that high actually. Only 4 or 5 bar at most. That's nothing compared to Diesel engines!

 

Ant

[Guest Mr Pid]

Im going with you on that one Ant, i have replaced these so many times i cant be arsed to do it anymore, SVA is looming and im sure jubilee clips will be ok.

 

If the SVA chap doesnt like it then he can change it! :angry:

 

I will let everyone know wot they say at Botley test centre (apparently fussy sods).

 

Stu

[Jon Bradbury]

Hey you two, stop ganging up on me!

 

My information comes from various posts on the locost builders site where several members failed SVA due to jubilee clips being used in the fuel line.

 

For the cost of the proper clips, you'll sure kick yourselves if you fail because of this...

 

Having said that, I drove around for years in a variety of Spitfires and an MG, all with jubilee clips and experienced no problems.

 

But what we're talking about isn't what we believe to be right, but what Mr SVA is going to say when he examines your car. If you use what's appropriate (as opposed to what's to hand or what's cheap) in your build, his opinion of the overall build quality will be much higher, and he'll be more likely to give you the benefit of the doubt in discretionary decisions (eg, the top harness mountings).

 

This must be seen as a Good Thing.

 

Cheers

 

JonB

 

PS, Mr Pid - Good luck for your test, anyway!

[Guest Ant]

Sorry - not trying to gang up. Fitting them from scratch I'd get the 360 degree petrol ones. If anyone out there already has jubilee clips there and they don't want to strip the tunnel or something to replace them, then I'm just pointing out that they're not necessarily a fail - as with many things it depends on the SVA station you use ... or even the tester you get at that station!

 

But like I say, starting from scratch, I'd use the 360 degree ones.

 

Ant

[Guest Mr Pid]

Doh- i could argue that im starting from scratch!

 

Ok re-laid the new lines today-look really good and im sure will be much better than the original set up.

 

I suppose it wont hurt to et some proper clips to put on the fuel line - it will cost just much seeing as most of the line is copper now so less joins! Im still just gonna push it over the smooth pipe withou flaring it though- i did this on the old lines after cutting them down and had no probs.

 

So as far as it goes i think it is a very good compromise

 

Cheers all

 

Stu