Rad Change

[Guest charlie]

Has anyone used a vw polo rad on a 2b? i dont like the temp running on the high side

so intend changing for a polo rad, any info on the plumbing would be good to let me

know what im letting myself in for, the 2b is 2.1 pinto on 40`s and fr32.

thanks Charlie.

[sylvia.fry2]

Will the rad. have a deer detector built-in?

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Hi Charlie

 

I have the full Polo set up on our 2b.

 

Paid £10.00 for rad, fan, all the hoses and football shape size header tank.

 

Sealed system using the Polo top header tank also.

 

No pics at the moment but I will try and get you some tommorow if you want some.

 

Ian J

[Guest charlie]

Will the rad. have a deer detector built-in?

Don`t extract the urine! that DEAR DEER has cost me a bob or two "Bob"

[Guest charlie]

Hi Charlie

 

I have the full Polo set up on our 2b.

 

Paid £10.00 for rad, fan, all the hoses and football shape size header tank.

 

Sealed system using the Polo top header tank also.

 

No pics at the moment but I will try and get you some tommorow if you want some.

 

Ian J

Thanks Ian, any help much appreciated, were you able to use the polo hoses?and how did you bleed the system?

thanks again Charlie.

[Guest FLUX]

I used a Civic (1990 model) on mine and it keeps the temp down and its of a modern design too. and the expansion bottle off a volvo 440

[Guest charlie]

I used a Civic (1990 model) on mine and it keeps the temp down and its of a modern design too. and the expansion bottle off a volvo 440

Thanks. Flux, i now have a Polo rad and expansion bottle plus some of the hoses, so once i suss the plumbing out i hope

to bolt it on, any info on the plumbing greatfully recieved.

CHARLIE,

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Hi Charlie

 

I haven't forgoten your request for help.

 

I am back in the workshop tommorow, after two celebratory nights , and will draw a plan / take some pics.

 

Mine is the full sealed system and in 2k miles over two summers it has never lost a drop of coolant.

 

To bleed the system I put a "T" piece in the small bore pipe that feeds back to the header tank.

 

A length of pipe is conected to the "T" that can be raised above the system and all the air is bled through this pipe.

 

Once happy all air has gone I placed a bolt in the open end of the pipe secured with a jubilee clip and it is just tucked out of the way untill it is needed again, so far that has been, never.

 

Ian J

[Guest charlie]

Thanks Ian, that wil be a great help, Charlie,

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Hi Charlie

 

Havn't forgotten

 

To dark in engine bay to take a decent piccy

 

To thick to do a LONGBOARDER type diagram on "word"

so a discription is the best I can do.

 

1) top hose to thermostat housing.

2) bottom hose to water pump, this has a heater hose size take off that goes to heater in.

3) heater out to water rail from back of head

4) tee out of heater hose to header tank. Like I said before the hose to the header I just put a spare hose with a bolt init to use as a bleed.

 

HTHs

 

Ian J

[Guest charlie]

Thanks Ian, I have done most of the plumbing but as i dont have a heater i plan to use the small hose as you

suggested to bleed the system hopefully i will be up and running by the weekend! will get back to you with an

update, thank again CHARLIE.

[Guest charlie]

Thanks Ian, I have done most of the plumbing but as i dont have a heater i plan to use the small hose as you

suggested to bleed the system hopefully i will be up and running by the weekend! will get back to you with an

update, thank again CHARLIE.

 

 

Just to update as prommised Ian,

all the Polo bits up and running, allthough the temp seems much the same!

my final trick before trying anther gauge is to fit a air"scoop" over the rad to force the air

through it, maybe the new fast road cam contributes to the extra heat,?

after the last shake down i left the engine running and although it was well in the red and the fan

had kicked in nothing untoward happened, maybe a new gauge? anyway thanks for your help

Cheers Charlie.

[Guest john]

Charlie, when I run my pinto with RH rad, and correct thermostat, the temp gauge gets up towards the high end ( though it does not state degrees ).

This is no good in hot weather.

 

When I take out the thermostat altogether, the gauge does not get off first base.

This is no good in cold weather.

 

I'm still experimenting and may end up removing the centre section of the thermostat to give a permanently open apperture to control the flow rate, but let enough go to keep it cool.

 

Anyone else done this ?

[Guest erichetherington]

Removing the actual thermostat bit but leaving the outer ring part was a recommended mod by Special Tuning for Minis back in the 70s. Was said to keep the flow properly controlled which just removing the stat didn't. I take no responsibility for applying BL methods to Ford engines though!

[chris n]

I'm still experimenting and may end up removing the centre section of the thermostat to give a permanently open apperture to control the flow rate, but let enough go to keep it cool.

 

Thats how I did Spanky John.

I don't have a heater fitted and with the thermostat in place it would only take a few miles of driving for the coolant to boil over

So I have cut the center valve section of the thermostat out, so I was left with the outer ring and the top frame and have changed the Cortina rad and fitted a coolmans rad. All works just fine.

If you don't have a thermostat fitted or something to control the coolant flow rate in the engine you will get a heat build up around number 4 cylinder which will lead to a cracked head or block this is more common on the Ford Crossflow engine.