Doors And Roof

[Guest Jabberwocky]

2 questions really,

 

1, I have a Surry roof with rail attachment. the problem is that the attachment is not attached anymore, think I will need to limit the speeds I do to stop this happening or get a better glue. SO what glue is the best?

 

2, as the winter is closing in, I think it is time I thought about doors, I have some perspex, has anyone got a mask/shape that I need, and any hints on best way of fitting or any pit falls to watch out for?

[Guest Jabberwocky]

Thanks for your help so far guys. The roof is now on, but I am struggling to work out how the doors go on. anyone got a photo of there fitting? and how do you get arounf the problem of bending the perspex?

[Guest SEgan]

Thanks for your help so far guys. The roof is now on, but I am struggling to work out how the doors go on. anyone got a photo of there fitting? and how do you get arounf the problem of bending the perspex?

 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but perspex is not the ideal material to use as it is a little fragile, it would be much better to use Polycarbonate which will take the odd impact without cracking.

 

If you need to bend the material it is possible with a heat gun but be careful and heat slowly so that you don't blister the surface.

 

Doors/sidescreens are usually hinged off the windscreen pillar using lift-off hinges.

 

Sean

[Guest Jabberwocky]

lol, my first attempt with perspex and I agree it does not like vibration. So the search for polycarbonate begins. any chance of a pic of someones door to see the sort of shape they are. as not really sure how to seal the back end of it. I assume it is tucked into the roof but by how much

[agent_zed]

Hi,

 

i've started making my own doors and roof but ive decided to go with the tried and tested method of metal frame and cloth. There is no reason why you couldn't do a metal frame and then skin it with polycarb and it will be far more rigid than polycarb alone. I guess it depends on if you have a welder. I used 6m of 3mmx15mm steel which is what the lolocost frames said they were made of. The advantage of doing it myself is that the frames are now perfect fit to my car as i was able to bend and twist the pieces to shape. Ive kind of guessed the shape from the pictures in the lolocost magazine and looking at the rh hood sets and a bit by what i thought looked good.

 

The hood ive decided to try something on the front edge as i dont want awning rail or poppers. What iam going to do is sew a u-shaped channel into the leading edge which will slip over the top of the window at either end i will have a clip on the pillar to pull it down tight. Weirdly the plastic u-channel for finishing the twin-wall roofing polycarb edge fits well and clips over quite tight. Whether it will work has yet to be seen but iam quite confident at this stage

 

hth

[Guest Jabberwocky]

Hi,

 

i've started making my own doors and roof but ive decided to go with the tried and tested method of metal frame and cloth. There is no reason why you couldn't do a metal frame and then skin it with polycarb and it will be far more rigid than polycarb alone. I guess it depends on if you have a welder. I used 6m of 3mmx15mm steel which is what the lolocost frames said they were made of. The advantage of doing it myself is that the frames are now perfect fit to my car as i was able to bend and twist the pieces to shape. Ive kind of guessed the shape from the pictures in the lolocost magazine and looking at the rh hood sets and a bit by what i thought looked good.

 

The hood ive decided to try something on the front edge as i dont want awning rail or poppers. What iam going to do is sew a u-shaped channel into the leading edge which will slip over the top of the window at either end i will have a clip on the pillar to pull it down tight. Weirdly the plastic u-channel for finishing the twin-wall roofing polycarb edge fits well and clips over quite tight. Whether it will work has yet to be seen but iam quite confident at this stage

 

hth

 

cool cheers for the info :-) I like the idea of a frame to keep things sturdy

 

Has anyone tried a wire frame with vinal panels? would it be strong enough?

[steve in stockport]

I've got awning rail fixed to the front of the screen using evostick 'liquid metal' adhesive and self tapping screws, and its been used up to national speed limit without any problems.

I started off with a Gingerfix surrey top as below

 

but after getting soaked going to Le Mans in 2006 i did a bit of modifying and ended up with a full roof and doors

 

The material to make the roof cost £12.

The doors are 3mm polycarb with a metal frame to help support the weight at the top, bottom half is a metal frame covered in cloth and vinyl and they are foldable for storage. Polycarb is definitely the way to go, one of mine blew off at 80mph on a French motorway and the only damage is a small bend on the corner where it landed after sailing thru the air.

 

Zed, I tried aluminium U channel over the top of the screen surround and even that started to lift and bend when the speed built up.

 

Steve

[Guest robinj66]

That's lovely work, Steve.

 

I must get round to those sort of things as soon as I fit a screen. Til then I'll have to make do with a helmet

[Knock-on]

OK, what is the best way to have a roof?

 

Is it to build one from scratch or buy one.

 

First option is preferable as I have plenty of bamboo and newspaper but the 2nd one may necessitate waiting until finances change. And waiting, and waiting, and waiting......

 

Don't suppose anyone's got an old set that need a bit of refurbishment?

[Guest Jabberwocky]

Steve thanks for the info I think that is the way forward. I have tried the liquid metal and that let me down coming back from Stonleigh. I have just put some self tapers in. think I will glue it as well, belt and braces time.

 

Your doors look spot on too, are they hinged in the middle to allow them to fold or is it a natural brake in the metal frame?