Prop Problems?

[Guest robert elms]

Hi everyone

Just got my new prop from gbs, offered it up on the kit and oh yes its not a straight foward fit, can anyone help, do i need to take of the rubber part from the gear box and if so how do you do that cos all mine wants to do is spin any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Rob

[Guest pencil]

Hi Rob,

When you say the rubber thing just spins, is that on the rear of the gearbox?

If so give it a good pull but keep it level as oil will leak out.

Best to leave it in until the gearbox/prop are in place.

You can just sneek the prop in then.

Hope this helps

 

John

[Guest robert elms]

Hi john its the rubber mounting it has 6 holes in 3 to hold the prop and 3 that hold the mounting is as simple as just pull it off????

 

Rob

[ibrooks]

If it's a type-9 box then yes it just pulls out. If it's an MT75 then it's not that simple and I'm not sure if your new prop will fit. Is reverse over to the left and forwards or to the right and backwards? the first is a type-9, the second is an MT75.

 

Iain

[Guest robert elms]

Hi iain its a MT75 but i did tell richard this and i have just had another look and it does'nt pull of it is held in by 3 bolts no head on one end and big nuts on the other end god knows how they come off.

 

Rob

[Guest boggybogstar]

Rob - you didnt expect it to be easy did you??

 

Theres a photo on the zerokits website that shows the prop going into the MT75 here;

 

 

not sure if it helps, did you sort out the thrust bearing?

[Guest robert elms]

Hi Tony thanks for the picture that prop looks totaly differant to the one they sent me the one they sent is round on both ends and a universal joint at both ends ( if thats the right terminology ) and also i have done a rough measure and the new prop seems to be 10 to 15 mm shorter.

 

Rob

[Guest boggybogstar]

I'm glad I used a type 9

 

You should have a universal joint both ends just to take the movement as you'll never get a straight drive train but you should have a flat flange on the diff end otherwise you'll never be able to bolt it on (to the diff)

 

if you can get it to fit in can you not move the engine back by 10 to 15mm?, mind you you should never push the prop fully in, i left about 20mm from the 'home' position to allow for back/forward movement whilst driving.

 

sounds like a phone call to Tricky in the morning !!

[Guest bone]

hi rob you said you told richard what box you was putting in ? well thats the problem tricky will be at stoneleigh for parts lol to go with the engine . so looking at pics of mt 75 3 leg and centre pole sticking out should have rubber flange on one end and the other a flat disk like the one on the diff so jack box up and put the front part on to box first then do diff last just have to wiggle it just a little bit hope this helps . keep up the good work

 

ps just follow the cd manual lol

[stevedohc2b]

I have an MT 75 as well with GBS PROP

 

My one has 2 bolt on flanges one each end.

 

Both ends have Universal joint.

 

The gear box end has a sliding spine shaft that allows movement front to back and a grease nip on the prop this will allow it the extend quite a bit.

 

you have to unbolt the big round blk rubber thing and attach with cap head bolts to the gear box need to wedge some thing in to stop it spinning when undoing and tork back up I used thread lock as well on bolts.

 

Give it a good grease at the Uj now as well.

 

Tony yours looks odd no UJ at front or sliding spines !!! My front U J gave up in 2007 so takes a pounding.

 

see attached

 

Stephen

[Graham B]

Mines an MT75 too. I removed the rubber vibration damper as it wouldnt go through the chassis --see www.gbowden.co.uk -under mods.

 

The car drives fine without it.

 

Graham B

[Guest boggybogstar]

Tony yours looks odd no UJ at front or sliding spines !!!

 

Thats what I thought but this isnt mine, this is Richards car from the build pictures (manual!) on the Zero website.

 

Mines a lovely straightforward type 9