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More Power Needed!


Guest info@trackdayUK

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Guest jasonmorris

Sorry to say this, but are these 110-120mph figures using gps as old sierra type speedos can be up to 10% overestimated. This means that 110 is actually 99mph. 120 in a fairly heavy (750kgs+) and not very aerodynamic Hood with a bog standard pinto sounds extremely optimistic!!!!

 

Cheapest way to get good power from your pinto is: Bike carbs (try to use the bike fuel pump), megajolt ignition, and if funds allow a cam and some head work. Doing this work may just give you a genuine 120mph.

 

J.

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Guest info@trackdayUK
What's up with the box? On most Hoods the engine will need to come out to get to it so unless it's giving problems leave it where it is.

 

Iain

 

 

Nothing, a tiny bit notchy getting into 1st but other than that no problem :D

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Guest info@trackdayUK
To tell the diff ratio lift one rear wheel, chock the other and count how many turns of the prop-shaft it takes to turn the free wheel twice. If it's difficult to tell between 3.6 and 3.9 turns then multiply by a fixed factor and count again i.e. go for 20 turns of the roadwheel and you're now looking for the difference between 36 and 39 turns of the propshaft (just multiplying by 5 would be better as it should make the difference big enough to easily spot without you wasting your whole weekend under the car).

 

Iain

 

 

Ill try that at weekend,nice one!!

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Guest info@trackdayUK
Sorry to say this, but are these 110-120mph figures using gps as old sierra type speedos can be up to 10% overestimated. This means that 110 is actually 99mph. 120 in a fairly heavy (750kgs+) and not very aerodynamic Hood with a bog standard pinto sounds extremely optimistic!!!!

 

Cheapest way to get good power from your pinto is: Bike carbs (try to use the bike fuel pump), megajolt ignition, and if funds allow a cam and some head work. Doing this work may just give you a genuine 120mph.

 

J.

 

My 110 was clocked by my mate behind me in my clio so i know thats pretty accurate as thats what it said in both cars,unless the clio one is wrong too :o

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Guest graham.g

I take it you have the type 9 box, changing that going to make no difference in performance. Which diff ratio do you have.

 

Trying to get lots of horsepower from the pinto is going to cost lots of money.

 

I would sell your carbs and engine, buy a 2 litre zetec which would bolt straight on to your type 9. Fuel it with a bike carb conversion and bingo you should have at least 140bhp, but should see more like 160bhp

 

Graham

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What ever box you fit 4th will always be 1 to 1, so only the diff can change the top speed.

Use the readily available speed calculator to find the best tyre, diff, gearbox ratios.

The standard type 9 box has a very low 1st, the V6 box is a bit better, the T5 box is good but bigger and won't fit an Exmo, BGH do a special set of ratios for the Type 9 but it cost.

With a 3.9 diff, a V6 box, 185 60 14 tyres and a 6,800 red line (soon to be 7,500) I can get 35 in first, 60+ 2nd, 80+ 3rd, not reved out in 4th or 5th, this with approximately 130bhp. Injection head (worth 10bhp) bike carbs a Megajolt and a 285 cam.

 

I think with more bhp a 3.6 diff would work well.

150bhp is a good amount of horses from a pinto, to get more requires more than just bolting on stuff, to build a 170+ Pinto needs experience and carefull building plus a lot of money.

Even at 130bhp I am nervous about the 6 flywheel bolts, the next build will have a lightened flywheel, ARP bolts and the flywheel dowled.

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Guest bettinson2005
Sorry to say this, but are these 110-120mph figures using gps as old sierra type speedos can be up to 10% overestimated. This means that 110 is actually 99mph. 120 in a fairly heavy (750kgs+) and not very aerodynamic Hood with a bog standard pinto sounds extremely optimistic!!!!

 

Cheapest way to get good power from your pinto is: Bike carbs (try to use the bike fuel pump), megajolt ignition, and if funds allow a cam and some head work. Doing this work may just give you a genuine 120mph.

 

J.

my 110 to 120 was clocked first by a mate in a scooby and he say his clocks showed me at 113 with him behind me <_< then a couple of weeks later mate in a golf gti turbo clocked me at 115 befor he overtook :unsure: this is why i say 110 to 120 after doing this there was nothing left in the car this was its topend even if there clocks were out a bit (different wheels?) i still would say 100 to 110?? i dont know much about this car and engine so not sure what it has had done ? may be cam ect has been changed but it is a 2ltr 205 block with carbs even so for a old lump to get 100 is good over is even better and i am happy :p

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Guest info@trackdayUK
or you could fit an st170 jenvies megasquirt and a good map ,

 

 

 

and get 201bhp

 

 

would the st engine go onto the sierra gearbox??

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Guest mtechautomotive
would the st engine go onto the sierra gearbox??

 

Youd need an M-Tech map of course ;)

 

And yes, it would, with a bit of webbing modification etc :)

 

Cheers,

Matt

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Guest info@trackdayUK
Youd need an M-Tech map of course ;)

 

And yes, it would, with a bit of webbing modification etc :)

 

Cheers,

Matt

 

 

ok,so now im getting somewhere,if i get the st lump can you fit it and do said modifying of whatever webbing is?

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The webbing refered to is strengthening webs for the ally part of the sump, these get in the way of the starter motor, cutting them off causes no problems on our cars.

 

Don't forget the gearing, makes a bigger difference than people realise.

 

If you are going for a bigger budget install put a bit more away for a gearbox refurb and upgrade at 170+bhp even the V6 box is close to its limits for long term reliability, whilst refurbing the much longer 1st gear is well worth doing.

Burtons do a 2.8 first gear set, BGH do a 2.8 a 2.7 and a 2.6 !st Quafe do very close ratio sets.

 

If it will fit the Cosworth T5 box has excellent ratios, will take the power and the Torque, is half the price of a Quaffe or BGH and the bell housing bolt pattern is the same as the Type 9.

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Guest gdc

ok,so now im getting somewhere,if i get the st lump can you fit it and do said modifying of whatever webbing is?

 

as you are a member in my area i can help in a big way .

i am not sure if matt has the fabrication facilities nessary .

contact me if you are up for the st and i will help as much as poss , matt has recently remapped the engine at the stonleigh show the difference is 30 horses up on before . for thoes that are not aware matt from m/tech is taking his r/road to all the major shows , you can just do a power run and realy find out what the engine does , or talk to them about a re,map .

i am in no way kissing ass , the performance speaks for its self .

i first met m/tech just before xmas last year , they are a young company with ambition and drive , there were probs with the instalation of the st but matt stayed with it often till 11pm at night , i know cos i was there .

if you need a map or mapping this is the man,i cant recomend then higher than that .

next prob is to find a gearbox ?

 

graham

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Guest musker 04
To tell the diff ratio lift one rear wheel, chock the other and count how many turns of the prop-shaft it takes to turn the free wheel twice. If it's difficult to tell between 3.6 and 3.9 turns then multiply by a fixed factor and count again i.e. go for 20 turns of the roadwheel and you're now looking for the difference between 36 and 39 turns of the propshaft (just multiplying by 5 would be better as it should make the difference big enough to easily spot without you wasting your whole weekend under the car).

 

Iain

 

the lower the diff ratio the more top end theoretical ie a 3.62 shoul give better top end than a 3.9 and most ford gear boxes are 1 to 1 in fifth unless you find some thing else

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Guest Ian & Carole
the lower the diff ratio the more top end theoretical ie a 3.62 shoul give better top end than a 3.9 and most ford gear boxes are 1 to 1 in fifth unless you find some thing else

 

Sorry to contradict but I think you will find 4th gear is 1 to 1 with 5th being an "overdrive" ratio of 0.87 ish.

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