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Dave Walker Full Race Cam


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Hi should be a realy good one for what it was designed for i.e. FULL RACE ,things like mega size valves ,v/high comp ratios 11to1 plus, forged pistons ,steel crank /rods ,48 DCOE,s no power below 4/5000rpm ,if thats what you want ,go for it ,personaly something a little milder would be better,but thats my honest opinion mower man

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The fitting of any full race cam on a Pinto will need machining work on the head, as the valve springs will coil bind.

Call Dave Walker/Emerald to find out what you need to do.

Mowerman is correct, a long duration cam needs a lot of static compression as the inlet valve closes very late reducing the actual in cylinder pressure.

I should imagine the power band of this cam is 4000 to 8000+ rpm, standard rods will die over 7200 as will the piston ring lands.

I am removing an RL22 from a head as the power band is 3500 to 7775 and replacing it with an RL2 3000 to 7000.

FR32 is a very good cam if you don't want to do much machining and the FR33 is good with compression ratio over 10 to 1

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hi guys, thank you all for your info, i have just read up on this cam, and it is not suitable for me, i am already running a kent FR32 with an adjustable pulley with 45's and a burton power moded dizzy kit on a 205 engine. i am only getting 119BHP @ 6500 RPM and around the same in tourque. i was told by the tuner that the next stage would be to tune the head and the next stage cam. can anyone point me in the right direction? thank you again. Dean.

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hi guys, thank you all for your info, i have just read up on this cam, and it is not suitable for me, i am already running a kent FR32 with an adjustable pulley with 45's and a burton power moded dizzy kit on a 205 engine. i am only getting 119BHP @ 6500 RPM and around the same in torque. i was told by the tuner that the next stage would be to tune the head and the next stage cam. can anyone point me in the right direction? thank you again. Dean.

 

I was running a similar setup but 2.1 with bike carbs and a Megajolt and got 128bhp 130 Ft/Lbs.

What head are you running, an Injection head is worth another 10bhp with your set up matched with a Felpro gasket which adds about 0.5 of a compression ratio.

 

The FR32 is a good cam and its only worth going a little more wild (FR33) if you up the compression ratio to 10.5 to 1 or more, then you get fuel/detonation problems.

 

My conclusion is, get an Injection head and fit bigger inlet valves, open the inlet ports at the throat area, blend in.

skim the head to give 10 to 1 with a standard gasket, this give you the oportunity to increase compression with a thiner gasket for about £40.

 

Get some time on a rolling road to set it all up.

 

I am doing some serious research on cams and whilst noware near a conclusion, it seems that cams over 300 degs duration need over 11 to compression ratio to work as they were designed, fuel quality and availability become marginal.

 

Some respected tuners talk around less duration than 300 degs but with much more lift than usualy available on say a 285 cam, some of the Lightning Rod cams seem to fit the bill here.

 

Pinto's like not too much duration and lots of lift.

The Injection head has a much better short side turn in the inlet.

Higher compression ratio is cheap power. 10.3 to 1 for 95 RON 10.7 for 97 RON, subject to inlet valve overlap and ignition timing.

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Oh Dear!

 

I don't wish to appear to be the Grim Reaper here but I have read so many posts on various forums such as this post on similar subjects. If we were to believe the BHP gains from buying individual components, we would all have a 2,000 BHP car! I am just trying to be helpful here and not derogatory.

 

To start with, a full race Camshaft is designed for exactly that, racing on a track where the throttle peddle is always planted and the revs are always typically over 6,000. No use to man nor beast in a road car.

 

The fact of the matter is it’s all about the careful matching and blending of individual components of an engine.

 

My old Pinto engined Westfield produced 172 BHP and was totally drivable on the road and I mean totally, with no peaks or troughs. In a nutshell, this was achieved with a little head porting (not too much as the inlet ports are quite large to start with), 44.1mm three angle inlet valves, (I cant remember the exhaust size but were a little larger than standard), 10.6:1 compression ratio, Piper 285 duration Camshaft timed for road use, Correct valve rocker geometry, home built MegaJolt ignition set up correctly, 45 DCOE’s with soldered up and re-drilled jets via the use of a wideband, with the inlet and exhaust manifolds registered to the Head for seamless flow.

 

The bottom end was a whole new story, but still run the standard crankshaft. Items such as Mahle pistons were my insurance against, what Snapperpaul eluded to, the piston ring lands.

 

By careful preparation, you will be amazed of the power increases available from your engine.

 

I hope this helps.

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