Rivets

[gncgray]

Morning all.

 

 

I`m going to start to buy some tools this week for the upcoming arrival of my Zero. Do I buy normal 3.2 rivets or counter sunk ones for a better finish?

 

Graham

[Snapperpaul]

If you riveting thin ally, counter sinking will IMHO reduce the strength.

 

It would be worth bonding the panels as well as riveting this will make the ally body panels a stressed part of the chassis.

 

Get 4 pieces of ally plate and try both methods on a bench, standard rivets and counter sunk, then you will know how difficult it could be to counter sink neatly hundreds of rivets and you will also be able to compare both methods visually

[gncgray]

If you riveting thin ally, counter sinking will IMHO reduce the strength.

 

It would be worth bonding the panels as well as riveting this will make the ally body panels a stressed part of the chassis.

 

Get 4 pieces of ally plate and try both methods on a bench, standard rivets and counter sunk, then you will know how difficult it could be to counter sink neatly hundreds of rivets and you will also be able to compare both methods visually

Thanks for the reply, I had not thought of counter sinking would reduce the strength of the ally. Do you bond all the panels to the chassis?

[Guest smartfazer]

Thanks for the reply, I had not thought of counter sinking would reduce the strength of the ally. Do you bond all the panels to the chassis?

 

I am bonding all panels as I go on my 2B. This not only helps the strength it is mainly to stop water ingress and corrosion.

[Shaft]

Hi, Sikaflex ALL panels where they contact the chassis. As mentioned already in a previous post, it will strengthen the chassis, but also, it will eliminate any 'Drumming' of the panels when driving.

 

I bought 12 tubes of genuine Sikaflex from Ebay for £35. GBS want £8 a tube for cheapo stuff.

 

Buy cheap as chips nail polish remover (Acetone) to wipe the chassis / panels with to ensure a really good bond.

 

HTH.

 

Nick.

[gncgray]

Hi, Sikaflex ALL panels where they contact the chassis. As mentioned already in a previous post, it will strengthen the chassis, but also, it will eliminate any 'Drumming' of the panels when driving.

 

I bought 12 tubes of genuine Sikaflex from Ebay for £35. GBS want £8 a tube for cheapo stuff.

 

Buy cheap as chips nail polish remover (Acetone) to wipe the chassis / panels with to ensure a really good bond.

 

HTH.

 

Nick.

Thanks Nic,

 

I was going to buy the tubes on site for £8, I have noticed on pics of cars that the side panels have no rivets, are they just boneded to the frame? Sorry for the dumb questions.

 

Graham

[Shaft]

Thanks Nic,

 

I was going to buy the tubes on site for £8, I have noticed on pics of cars that the side panels have no rivets, are they just boneded to the frame? Sorry for the dumb questions.

 

Graham

 

 

Hi Graham,

 

The side panels can be riveted down into the top rail and up into the bottom rail as the panels have a return flange on to do this. Whether you rivet the sides or not is personnal preference really. I'm going to Sikaflex the sides, no rivets, as i don't like the battle ship look myelf. (No upset intended if you've riveted yours, my preference only). You can also rivet at the rear and front extreme's into the side as they will be hidden by the arches / nosecone.

 

To ensure a good surface for the bond, abrade the panel ( where it contacts the chassis) and chassis with 120 grit paper and clean well with Acetone or similar prior to assembly.

 

HTH,

 

Nick.

[Guest Alan_builder]

Oh, I don't think Sikaflex was a structural adhesive!

 

I think Pink Grip is. 2B's use it to fix the GRP edge to the SS arch.

 

Look in Screwfix, Sikaflex stuff from £1.99

 

I my

[gncgray]

Hi Graham,

 

The side panels can be riveted down into the top rail and up into the bottom rail as the panels have a return flange on to do this. Whether you rivet the sides or not is personnal preference really. I'm going to Sikaflex the sides, no rivets, as i don't like the battle ship look myelf. (No upset intended if you've riveted yours, my preference only). You can also rivet at the rear and front extreme's into the side as they will be hidden by the arches / nosecone.

 

To ensure a good surface for the bond, abrade the panel ( where it contacts the chassis) and chassis with 120 grit paper and clean well with Acetone or similar prior to assembly.

 

HTH,

 

Nick.

Hi Nick

 

Ta, I think I will rivet top and bottom rails. I`m with you on the "battle ship" look. I am having my chassis powder coated so will I have to key that before bonding?

 

Graham

 

PS Happy New Year

[gncgray]

Oh, I don't think Sikaflex was a structural adhesive!

 

I think Pink Grip is. 2B's use it to fix the GRP edge to the SS arch.

 

Look in Screwfix, Sikaflex stuff from £1.99

 

I my

Thanks Alan

 

Lots of advise to take in. Would you use a structural adhesive or contact adhesives? Not sure if you have been on this site http://secure.silmid.com/ENG/catalogue

 

Graham

[Guest smartfazer]

Oh, I don't think Sikaflex was a structural adhesive!

 

I think Pink Grip is. 2B's use it to fix the GRP edge to the SS arch.

 

Look in Screwfix, Sikaflex stuff from £1.99

 

I my

 

 

What's Pink Grip? I've never heard of it.

 

Is it any good?

[chris n]

What's Pink Grip? I've never heard of it.

 

Is it any good?

 

Its a cartridge applied adhesive use in the building trade for

Bonding dado rails, architrave's and skirting

Fixing parquet and cork flooring.

Fixing wall cladding direct to internal wall surfaces or timber battens.

Fixing battens directly onto walls without fastenings.

Bonding carpet gripper systems to most floors without the need for nails or tacks.

Bonding stair nosing to concrete or wooden stairs.

Fixing polyester, wood, PVCu or metal thresholds.

Fixing nameplates, plastic boxes, decorative frames, wall sockets and junction boxes to most surfaces.

Securing aluminium or other skin panels to the framework or portable industrial buildings and caravans.

 

used it a few times seems to do the job

[Guest Alan_builder]

Thanks for the picture of the PinkGrip Chris.

 

Screwfix do the Greygrip @£2.25

Greygrip

screwfix solvented adhesive

 

It is a structural adhesive, sticks like sh1t to a blanket. Dont get it on your fingers cos it lasts a week as new skin.

It is semi hard in 10 minutes and full strength in 24hrs.

It is a gap filler and difficult to get a finish after 2 minutes. Once set it is like metal or fiberglass to work.

 

I have used both and yes I did get it on my fingers! Used it to fit plates over holes in the SS around the rear torque tube and other difficult places to get fixings.

 

Oh yes, you might find it difficult to get items dissasembled once fixed with this stuff.

 

I my

[Guest gixerboy600]

Hi all,

 

Absolutely best body sealant / bonding substance is Wurth Bond and Seal, this is used by many prfessional body shops and I have used on previous builds with great results. It also acts as an anti vibration seal and really stiffens up well. Not cheap but worth the investment!!! (I ued to work for the Wurth automotive division and to be fair the quality of all products is excellant)