Heres An Interesting Idea

[Guest Mr Pid]

I suppose a silly question really as i know it has been done before!

 

I was thinking to cure my overheating paranoyer, i owuld fit a couple of old matrix' in the rear of the car with some hosage going down the tunnel to the front of the car to give the engine more water and also give the water a better chance of cooling down.

 

Two main points really to consider with this set up -

 

(a) Has any member done it in a hood before and how did the end result fair?;

 

( Will i need to fit a caravan pump in the rear or the like to give the water pump a hand in pushing the extra volume of water from the rear of the car back to the front and around the engine?

 

Any thoughts welcome.

 

Stu

[Guest Ianz]

Stu

Not so silly really,

Hillman imps have the heater hoses running form the engine in the back

to a heater matrix in the boot(front)...a run of about 8 feet,the hoses

running on each side of the car,I don't see why a Pinto water pump should'nt

be capable of pushing the water that distance.

Cheers Ian

[Big Jim]

Stu, If you've got cooling problems, then this isn't the way to sort them. The ONLY way to cool and engine is to pass maximum air over maximum water.

with your engine, I would get at double core radiator (I believe that the latest one RHSC supply is) then dump the viscous fan, and put a good electric fan up against the radiator. 2", 3" or 6" away from it, just isn't good enough! without it being well cowled in. also the fans that RHSC supply are just not up to it! there are much better ones in the scrap yard (for a 'blower' I would recommend a Citreon BX)

Personal preferences, but i would reduce the thermostat opening temp, fit the fan switch directly into the top hose / water path, this is were it's sensing the temp as the water comes out of the engine (there are a few types available), the ones that stick through the radiator fins are too far away from what you are trying to control, in my opinion.

You have got to make it so that maximum air goes through the radiator.

[Guest Charles B]

I agree with what Jim says, I have the standard RH radiator fitted sloping in a 2B with a 9inch pacet fan mounted on the front, and I have more problem of the engine taking ages to warm up! The fan hardly ever comes on at this time of year. Sounds like a lot of hassle involved at the rear.

[Guest Mr Pid]

Here is another spin on it!! he he

 

Well i was thinking if, like you say it may take along time ot heat up, what if i attached the feed pipes by the firewall where the other matrix pipes enter/exit and fit a valve in each pipe so in the winter, i can leave the flow as it would be normally, and in the summer i can open the valves giving the expansion at the rear to have an effect?

 

I understand the concept of airlfow over water but at the same time only have enough space to contrstruct very shrewd form of cowling.

 

I remember in an issue of CCC a guy did this in S1 Rs Turbo which he took to the race track on the weekends, he drove it during the week also and had the extra radiator in the back so when he was hammering round the track it kept cool. He reckons the engine lasted longer than any other he had.

 

Seeing as my turbo will probably be as cherry red as his was with my lead boots on i am thinking it may save me another re-build?! :boohoo:

 

Stu

[Guest Battery Bill]

Stu

Careful where you are going with this one Look at how much flack Joey and I got for our "Battery in the Back" project

Good luck anyway

[Guest paul mercer]

a feller i work with has built a dino kit and has had trouble with water flowing the length of the car. He had to fit an extra pump into the system. Especially when you consider that engines don't have water 'pumps' on them but water 'agitators'.

 

as for the tricky cowling, i have used the side and top of the car as the edges to my wind tunnel. This way all you need to do is seal the fan and radiator to the edges. I used 3mm abs sheet with a door closure seal on the edges. Works so well that the car almost gets pulled along by the fan.

 

The fan is also out of a diesel focus i think.

[Guest Mr Pid]

Good plan on the cowling idea Paul, i am sure that i should be able to bodge something along those lines.

 

Bill- unfortunately i was away when that thread was on the board, i shall have to try and find it or, as you say, get a load of flack myself.

 

Personally cant see what the problem is with having a battery in the back, my brother's BMW has it in the back which proves more useful than having it burried up the front!

 

I am fitting jump points just under my dash so if the car does ever need jumping i can just open the door rather than fiddling with the bonet

 

Cheers

 

Stu

[Guest gordon_macnab]

I'm not sure the standard RHE radiator will be up to the job of cooling a turbo'd pinto, I'm not using it for my cosworth engine.

 

I found this site from the locost builders forum http://www.craig.chamberlain.name

He has a search facility based on radiator dimensions to see what you can fit and then links into a suppliers website.

 

I've just bought a new radiator from the site, it's originally for some VW models (can't remember the part number offhand) and is a twin core aluminium one and just cost £45 delivered. It is about the max size to fit in a hood and it has been used by a some of the locost boys to cool a Rover V8.

 

I found this site too, which if you search through give details of standard radiators and what the cores are 1,2,3 etc.

 

http://www.gmradiator .co.uk

 

Cheers

 

Gordon

[Guest daveg]

Stu

 

I agree with Jim (yet again... ) rad and batt in the front

 

You don't want to mess with valves and hoses in the back! Fit a rad and good electric fan controlled with an electric sensor as Jim says...

 

It will be simpler and better

 

Dave

[Guest Battery Bill]

Daveq

If you've got cooling problems, then this isn't the way to sort them. The ONLY way to cool and engine is to pass maximum air over maximum water.

with your engine, I would get at double core radiator (I believe that the latest one RHSC supply is) then dump the viscous fan, and put a good electric fan up against the radiator. 2", 3" or 6" away from it, just isn't good enough! without it being well cowled in. also the fans that RHSC supply are just not up to it! there are much better ones in the scrap yard (for a 'blower' I would recommend a Citreon BX)

Personal preferences, but i would reduce the thermostat opening temp, fit the fan switch directly into the top hose / water path, this is were it's sensing the temp as the water comes out of the engine (there are a few types available), the ones that stick through the radiator fins are too far away from what you are trying to control, in my opinion.

You have got to make it so that maximum air goes through the radiator.

Please show me where Big Jim mentions the battery in this article

[Guest Tony Tank]

Well he asked ,you replied ! and he is still putting it in the back. .Huuuum

Something is not sinking in ????????????????????????????

Tank

[Guest Battery Bill]

TT

and he is still putting it in the back

Not strictly correct here, "We" have already "Put" it in the back

And no we do not have any sinking sensations so to speak.