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Inboard Master Cylinder Pedal Box


steve in stockport

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As a broken boiler put paid to going away over Valentines weekend, I thought I'd put the time to good use and move my master cylinder inboard, so that I can fit an air filter, as since putting the red top in I've run without one because the carbs and M/C were very close to each other.

It took about four days, a cereal box and a couple of phone calls to design, make and fit a new pedal box, that has retained the sierra pedals, the brake one needed altering slightly, and auto clutch adjuster.

Might be useful to any of you who are going zetec or red top power and need to move your M/C, or if you just want to move it inboard out of the heat of the engine bay.

 

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I've used a westfield M/C and as it stands the pedal length gives a 6.5 to 1 ratio, which is just about where you want to be for effective braking.

It also picks up on the original pedal box mounting holes, so no extra holes to sort out.

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  • 4 years later...
Guest david_l_perry

Hi Steve. Just spotted this thread and is what I need to do with my hood next. What's the difference between the master cylinder you used and the standard sierre unit ?

 

Am I right in saying your ratio of 6.5:1 is the lever pedal distance ratio around the pivot point

 

If I can do the same with my sierra mc unit it makes sense to re use what I have, but may be better to get a smaller ka unit from what others have suggested.....??

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Dave I went for the Westfield m/c as they fit them without a servo as standard and the push rod is threaded for a clevis pin and pivot to attach to the pedal.

The distance from pedal pad to pivot is 6.5 X pivot to clevis pin.

 

If you want any more info on the set up give me a call or maybe we can meet up so you can look at the car

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