Windscreen Rubber

[Joel]

Has anyone run a line of silicon in the windscreen frame before fitting the glass or is the rubber strip on it's own sufficent?

 

Also, same question but on the T-piece rubber where the windscreen joins the bonnet/scuttle?

[Guest john]

Yep, just done it this week. I did a fillet between glass and frame inside and out, after it was fully assembled , and before fitting to the car.

Right or wrong time will tell, but I figured the

channel isn't fully waterproof unless you do it. Helps to glue the whole thing together too.

I used translucent. looks quite neat.

 

 

John.

(Reading)

[Joel]

Cheers for that.

 

Richard recommends drilling the necessary bits of the frame for fitting a hood before you put the glass in, so I might not seal it up permanantly until I've sorted that out.

[Longboarder]

If you want to drill to a specific depth such as 3mm cut a bit of tube such as brakepipe to cover the drill bit leaving 3mm of drill tip exposed. Check the length of exposed bit after each hole as the tube can wear down exposing too much bit. Now you can go ahead and assemble your frame without worrying about busting the glass later.

Nigel

[Guest john]

Joel, your point about the hood fixings. Will you be doing SVA with them in place ? I read somewhere that this could be a failure point for the dreaded protrusions.

 

I don't intend to fit my hood until I get a MAC.

 

 

John

(Reading )

[Guest SteveL]

Joel,  your  point about the hood fixings.  Will you be doing SVA with them in place ?  I read somewhere that this could be a failure point for the dreaded protrusions.

 

I don't intend to fit my hood until I get a MAC.   

 

 

John

(Reading )

 

Just buy some spare poppers, and pop tops onto every popper attached to the screen surround/bodywork. All protusions are then covered up nicely.

 

Steve

[Guest Mr Pid]

Steve, talking of external protrusions;

 

I see on your site that you 2B (which is looking rather smart by the way) is equiped with one of fords very finest injection engines. Did you get the inj bonnet from RHE or did you cut the existing one?

 

Just asking as i have two raised parts on my bonnet as the brakes are raised on the other side as well so had to cut the bonnet, will these need covering for the SVA do you think?

 

Would be grateful for any info

 

Cheers Stu

 

[Guest SteveL]

Steve, talking of external protrusions;

 

I see on your site that you 2B (which is looking rather smart by the way) is equiped with one of fords very finest injection engines. Did you get the inj bonnet from RHE or did you cut the existing one?

 

Just asking as i have two raised parts on my bonnet as the brakes are raised on the other side as well so had to cut the bonnet, will these need covering for the SVA do you think?

 

Would be grateful for any info

 

Cheers Stu

 

 

Hi

 

When I first bought my kit, I didn't even know that RHE did injection bonnets, so mine was of the plain variety. I watched the videos, and Richard mentioned the injection bonnet. One call to the Technical line later, and they wanted 250 quid for the injection bonnet, and wouldn't take mine back in exchange. Major bummer! Richard mentioned that they sell the GRP bulge (I think it was 20 quid from memory) so I bought one.

 

I theory I should have just been able to cut out a U shape, lift the "tongue" up and get the bulge in place, but angle-grinders being the jumpiest of things, I managed to put a pretty big scar on the "tongue" piece. I removed this completely and cut a piece of galvanised steel to replace it. This will be painted to match the Oxford Blue colour (or as close as you can get it!) and should look quite smart. You can't just cut a hole and just use the GRP bulge, as the top of the GRP isn't made to be on show (for that read it's really rough and unfinished!)

 

I'm not sure about things sticking out of holes in the bonnet needing covering. I'm always seeing pictures of kit cars with big bits of the engine sticking out (the motorbike engined Dax's which were in the mags a year or so ago are a good example. They seemed to stick out by at least 6 inches!) Maybe a call to your local SVA test centre is in order to ask them?

 

Cheers

 

Steve

[Guest stevie b]

Just a word of warning; if you want to take off silicone seal from stainless steel body work don't use screwfix silicone remover (or similar) as it stains the ss. Better to pick it off with your fingernails instead

[Guest Mr Pid]

cheers for the info,

 

I have managed to cut a "tongue" as you put it, on both sides and made a make shift GRP replica mould from alluminium which they use in grilles.

 

It looks ok but i am tempted to make one like you described and paint it, i see what you mean about the bonnet projections, just noticed on the RHE website that the subK kit advertised has an injection engine with the vellum chamber sticking through the bonnet!

 

thanks again

 

Stu

[Guest boggie]

I agree with John,

Seal the windscreen both sides otherwise you will get puddles of water on the scuttle during heavy rain. Also another source for leaks is between the poppers along the top of the screen. Don't try to seal this as it is almost impossible - let the water in! I got a length of tiny self adhesive chrome gutter from Europa Spares (it is similar to the design you get as part of the shell on older cars above the doors to stop water dribbling on you when you open the door only this stuff is flexible and adhesive). This I simply stuck on its side (gutter facing forward) along the top edge of the screen frame and continued down each side to the point where it meets the bodywork. Now any water that gets in between the poppers is simply collected in this gutter and deposited back outside by the windcreen mounts. I can now drive down the motorway at speed in driving rain and no water gets in (apart from the occasional drip on my knees where it has got in around the windscreen wiper shafts).

Boggie

[Guest Phil Slater]

Sorry didn't mean this to be a reply but a new post.

[Guest chris brown]

Has anyone run a line of silicon in the windscreen frame before fitting the glass

Yes but Sikaflex is better as with the hood or even a surrey on the lifting force can manage to lift the middle of the frame and then no matter how well you manage to seal hood to frame you still get very wet as several have found out.

[Guest Battery Bill]

Now look what you have done Phil you have woken up a long dead thread

 

Mind you this was an interesting point

 

and they wanted 250 quid for the injection bonnet, and wouldn't take mine back in exchange. Major bummer! Richard mentioned that they sell the GRP bulge (I think it was 20 quid from memory) so I bought one.

 

Its £230 for a standard one now so perhaps prices might not rise too much

 

[Guest docter fox]

that's why I'm making my own