S7 Rollbar...

[Guest dieselnut]

Hello All...

 

I've just purchased a second hand S7 in need of restoration, lurvelly car, all in stainless, and my first Se7en.

 

I have one question, having read the build manual from cover to cover, the only mention I can find of the rollbar (to stop your noggin contacting the floor should you make an accidental inversion, rather than Anti-Roll-Bar) is that they come pre-attached to the chassis.

 

Is there a sensible place on the S7 to attach a bar to ?

 

Will RH still have any of the S7 ones ?

 

Who could I go to to get one made up ?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Matthew

edit: I should point out, that it doesn't currently have a roll bar of any kind

[Big Jim]

Hi Matthew,

 

The first question is, has the car been previously registered, or will it need to go through SVA?

If it needs to go through SVA, then I think the roll bar needs to be of a certain dia.

(45mm if my memory serves me correct)

If it's already registered, then the normal size for the roll bar was 1½" dia.

I would try RHSC first for one, then if not, I'm sure that RS Jigtec would make you one.

They fit right up to the sides of the boot, with the 'U' of exhaust clamps (2 either side) going through the boot side, and picking up the piece of angle iron that extends from the 'chassis' turn over, under the wheel arch.

Also there are the 2 support stays, welded to the roll over bar, and bolted through the rear edge of the boot, which in turn should have a strengthening piece of angle under the edge.

I have also, plugged and tapped the bottoms of the roll over bar, then fitted a 12mm bolt into each leg, up through the boot floor, with a nice big juicy 'washer'

[Guest dieselnut]

That looks like a good solution I'll drop RH a call and see if they have anything availiable, How much would I be looking at to get a custom-made one fitted ? And is it a case of taking the car to them, or just providing detailed measurements?

 

Matthew

[Big Jim]

RHSC should know the size, but to get one made, ask "Phil in Cheshire" he's recently had one made to conform to SVA for a mark 3.

[Guest dieselnut]

Being new to this whole forum thingumy, how do I get hold of "Phil in Cheshire" ?

[Big Jim]

At the top right hand tool bar, click on "Members"

This brings the start of a list of members, also at the bottom there are a selection of boxes up, in the first box, change it to "names begining with" then in the empty box next to it, put "phil"

 

Then click "go" it should bring you up a 'one liner' with Phil's name on, click on the "phil in cheshire" bit and it will bring his profile up, in the right hand column of his profile, there's a line you can click onto to send him a PM, or another one you can send an E-mail.

 

On the other hand, if you find a post anywhere that he's put up, you just click the PM box on the bottom line of it.

 

(PM = personal message)

[Guest dieselnut]

Gotcha Thanks !

 

I'll get the hang of this eventually

[Guest Phil in Cheshire]

Mathew

 

Have sent a PM with details of what i did. Will take some photos today and post them to you

 

Phil

[Guest Andy Rathbone]

this might NOT help

 

The following are extracts from the new European Pipe Specification,

 

 

 

EUROPEAN PIPE SPECIFICATION

 

EC Directive 21-95-56-32275-EC-666

 

1. All pipes are to be made of a long hole surrounded by metal or

plastic centred around the hole.

 

2. All pipes must be hollow throughout the entire length of the pipe -

do not use holes of a different length to the pipe.

 

3. The ID (Inside Diameter) must not exceed the OD (Outside

Diameter) otherwise the hole will be on the outside.

 

4. All Pipes must be supplied empty, so that water, steam etc, can be

put in at a later date.

 

5. All pipes over 500ft. (150m) in length should have the words

"LONG PIPE" written on them for ease of identification.

 

6. All pipes over 2 miles (3.20km) in length must also have the words

"LONG PIPE" clearly written at the mid-point of the pipe, so that

the contractor does not have to walk the full length of the pipe to

establish whether or not it is a long pipe.

 

7. All pipes over 6ft (1.83m) in diameter must have "LARGE PIPE"

clearly written on them so the the contractor will not mistake them for a

small pipe.

 

8. All pipes must be specified under one of the following categories

to prevent accidents:

 

a. LEVEL Pipe

b. UPHILL pipe

c. DOWNHILL Pipe

 

This is to avoid water placed in an incorrect pipe from flowing

the wrong way on a slope.

 

9. There is a large number of so called pipes on the market under the

3mm length threshold.

These are classed as "WASHERS" and should be used accordingly.

 

10. a. The joints between pipes carrying water must be watertight.

Those pipes only carrying air need only be airtight.

 

10. b. Directional Joints should be classed as "LEFT HAND",

"RIGHT HAND", "UP" or "DOWN" and clearly labelled as such to

prevent the contractor from inadvertently laying the pipes so that they

are going the wrong way.

[Guest MikeD318]

Awwww, nuts.

I'm going to have to redo my bathroom now. I don't want the water to come up through the plug hole and I'm not sure if I put the pipes the right way 'round.

[Guest Andy Rathbone]

i thought that would amuse somone

[Guest dieselnut]

I love the pipe spec.... I think I might have some of the right stuff somewhere on the SkyHooks in my shed