Failing At The First Hurdle

[Guest tom-zero]

im trying to fit the rear pannel and im haveing so much trouble trying to work out where to mark it for riviting so that it lines up with the chassis members behind that i want the rivets to go into

 

am i just over thinking this task ?

 

also how do u guys get the rivets in along the edge of the panel (down the sides, edge of vehicle) because i cant see how im going to get a rivet gun up in near the corner sections let alone a drill for drilling the holes because parts of the chassis gets in the way

 

please help

 

thanks tom

[Guest dinger]

Give up and semd it back, lol

 

Only jesting,

 

Lay the back panel in and clamp it in place, go round the back of the car and with a marker pen draw along the edges of the chassis bracing, marking the back of the panel,

 

Take the panel out and working on a dirt fee table/bench, flip it over and with a straight edge you can join the lines you missed when it was on the car. You'll now see that you have the exact shape of all the frame work, measure the middle and drill holes evenaly all the way along,(about every 5 inches)

 

you can now place the panel back in place and with a paint pen (i used yellow) you can mark where each hole is to be drilled,

 

drilling close to the chassis is easy, you can buy a 90 degree attachment for your drill for those hard to access places.

[Guest tom-zero]

thanks for your advice i have been trying to mark it out at 2" gaps do u think 5" will be suficiant ??

 

thanks Tom

[Guest dinger]

Drill as few holes as possible, as you are weakening the structure by making holes, 5 inches is close enough and use some good quality sealer/adheasive, something like tiger seal,

 

Although you may only be driving the car in the dry, you will get caught out some days, Amd will ellinminate thaose annoying rattles

[Shaft]

Tom, read my blog mate.... clear step by step instructions and covering photo's either on the blog or more to find in my photobucket account.

[Guest dinger]

He's like an action man with the pull string on his back, lol,

 

 

Yes Tom, shoot over to Nicks blog, Very helpfull

[sj-bradley]

After I had drilled the holes in the seat panel and placed it back in place, you can both mark with a pen and / or centre punch through the holes you have.

 

In order that all holes would line up, I drilled one corner and used cleko fasteners to hold it. Drilled the other far corner and fastened that one. Then used the holes in the panel to drill the rest putting the odd cleko in place.

 

After drilling all the holes and removing the clekos I removed the panel and hoovered up the swarf.

 

You don't want to find yourself drilling holes in the chassis and then trying to fit the panel finding out that the holes had moved slightly.

 

Simon.

[speedtripledan]

He's like an action man with the pull string on his back, lol,

 

 

 

dont pull his string you never know what he will say next!

[Guest tom-zero]

just had a read of the blog shaft very helpful thankyou

 

altho now im confused weather to do the rivets at 5 inches or 2 lol

[Shaft]

just had a read of the blog shaft very helpful thankyou

 

altho now im confused weather to do the rivets at 5 inches or 2 lol

 

 

I did all mine at 2" spacings on every panel everywhere. My mindset on this, either rightly or wrongly, is it would stiffen the chassis.

 

5" is fine, many panels are bonded only on some builds and they are fine.

[sj-bradley]

I did any non load bearing at 2 inches but you do use more rivets that way I also bonded the panels after drilling and cleaning up.

 

I suppose you can use the polyurethane sealant to bond it and use larger spacings. It's your car now, you can build it the way you want to

 

Simon.

[Guest carl leonard]

As stated, use minimal rivets and 'Bond' the panel to the chassis. Thinking back I used 'Adflex' (Made by Sika) to bond the panel, clamped and left overnight. Guaranteed never to move again!

 

carl.