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Type 9 Gearbox, Main Oil Seal Replacement.


Guest Jomeo69

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If you look on the pic of the following :-

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ctm/Ford-Sierra-Type-9-Gasket-Set-

 

You've basically got (from top, going clockwise)

 

- The round cork gasket that goes on the input shaft/clutch release arm cover.

- A bellhousing gasket (5 holes in it; the top central hole is not for a bolt but to clear the selector shaft)

 

These are the two gaskets you'll be interested in, plus the actual rubber seal of course.

 

The rest of the picture, if it interests you, is

 

- Top cover gasket

- Front seal, rear seal and I'm guessing speedo drive seal inside the top cover gasket

- Intermediate spacer gaskets for either side of the ally spacer on the 5-speed

 

HTH!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Jomeo69

Afternoon all.

 

So here we go.

Got the box out in the end by moving the engine forward 6 inches on the mounts and dropping to out.

Replaced the two offending gaskets.

Only after finding there was no gasket between the bell housing and casing. That would partly explain the leak in the first place.

Thanks to RH for supplying a quality gearbox with the kit :clapping:

Anyway my latest issue to infuriate and annoy me is this.

When i went to move the box earlier today i lifted the bell housing only by a couple of inches to get to something that was sitting in the area, and moved the housing only a couple of inches to the right.

In the process of this, as seems to be the case with this box red fluid came pouring out of the splined shaft oil seal, and left what i can only describe as a small oil slick over the workbench.

So im guessing this oil seal needs changing now as well?

 

So im guessing my question is, How much of a tosser is changing this one and how much work is involved?

Or can i do it on the bench just by removing the old seal somehow and replacing with a new one?

 

Many Thanks to all

Joe

Edited by Jomeo69
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Guest Ian & Carole

As Brumster says the seal seals against the smooth shiny part of the prop shaft.

On the bench, carefully drift a fine screw driver down the edge of the seal and distort it into the space made were the prop shaft should be and prize the old seal out.

Using a large socket if you have one or a blunt drift, placed at 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 9 o'clock then 3 o'clock round and round gently tap the new seal into the gearbox casing, once home the noise your tapping makes will change.

Make sure that you lubricate the new seal lip with oil or a light grease or you run the risk of burning the new seal which might result in premature failure.

Like all these jobs, if you haven't done them before take your time and you will be fine.

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