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Fresh Approach!


Guest robbie

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Guest robbie

Hi guys, me again, the guy with the promblematic twin 40s!

Still havent cracked it but am going to stick on 38dgas to see if this eliminates previous problems (cutting out after period of time) although I have noted that the engine restarts immediately after a few quick squirts of the accelerator, fuel starvation?

Anyhow, I would appreciate any tips as I attempt this fresh approach and hope that I will get over this obstacle. Soooooooooooooooooo close!!

 

Best regards

 

Robbie

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Guest boggie

Hi Robbie,

I guess you will probably have tried this but I had the same problem as you when I fitted twin 45 Webers. My fuel pump is mounted in the boot so I can hear it running at low speeds, however when the car stalled the pump sounded like it was struggling or running out of fuel even though the tank was half full.

I took out the fuel sender and drilled a 6mm hole through the top plate. Then I drilled a 3mm hole down the centre of a long 6mm bolt and fitted it through the sender, sealing it using fibre washers. Once the sender unit was refitted this bolt acted as a breather for the tank to prevent vacuum building up as fuel was pumped out. I got some 6mm siphon tubing from Boots and ran this from the sender up to the highest point of the boot, then along the back of the car, over the filler neck and back down past the tank on the other side. That way the fuel cannot escape from the breather if you fill the tank to the brim or even if the car is upside down. :o

 

Have you tried driving it without the filler cap on? Just a thought. :rolleyes:

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Just a thought Robbie, is your tank nice and clean inside? sometimes people have a lot of silicon sealer rolling around in the tank as a result of trying to seal it. This can block the feed pipe, when it is no longer sucking, the crap moves away allowing more fuel to get through until the next lump blocks it off again. Then again perhaps you have gone through this.

Peter.

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Guest boggie

Hi Salty,

In theory it could help a little but won't go any way to curing the problem. However, assuming you have the same issue as I did it is very easy to fix. The filler pipe sticks a fair way inside the tank, this means that once the level in the tank gets higher than the bottom of the filler pipe you can only fill the tank very slowly or the fuel will rise up the pipe and cause the auto shut-off on the pump to stop fuelling. All I did was to cut off the end of the pipe so that it only stuck into the tank about 1 - 2 inches. Now I can fill at full speed, right to the brim.

HTH, Boggie

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Guest salty_monk

:lol: :lol:

 

Too busy fitting new rad, expansion tank, filling diff, clutch quad, clutch cable, lagging exhaust, access hole for gearbox & check, cowling for radiator, new wing mirrors, new seats...

 

Problem with buying someone else's build, because they never drove it I now have all the little niggly bits (if you can call a diff with no oil that!) to sort out!!

 

Was planning to do it when I take the boot box out, the one in there at the moment is slab sided but they have actually lost at least 30 - 40 litres of space by not shaping the box around the suspension struts - more work than slab sides but also more useful!!

 

Will make sure I report back to you the moment I get it done!! :lol: :lol:

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Guest petrie51

Hi Salty

 

Access Hole for Gearbox Oil level

 

On my 2B I can get the plug out from laying underneath the car and using a syringe with a piece of pipe on (windscreen washer pipe) to top up gearbox.

 

Hope this helps

 

Andy

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Guest robbie

OK, a few things to try there, but meanwhile the 38DGAS arrived and I need to sort out a few things:

Any good sites or links detailing various parts and installation/setup? There seem to be a couple of small bore pipes that I am unsure as to what they connect to.

The gears that operate the two inlet flaps hit the manifold when opened fully preventing full range of motion. Previous owner has in fact made two aluminium spacers to raise the carbs higher above the maifold to enable full range of movement. Might this be a problem?

Need linkages, any ideas where to pick up?

Seems to have auto choke, is this ness in order to ensure staring in cold conditions ar can I start like the twin 40s by pumping 3-4 times to prime engine?

Probably more questions but that will get me goin fer now!!

 

Best regards

 

Robbie

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Guest Bob Rowell

Salty, I have done the same as Boggie and cut down the length of filler neck inside the tank. It was only after doing this that it occured to me that the less protrusion of filler pipe you have inside the tank the easier it is to be dislodged, even though it does aid filling up.

What I should have done, and hopefully you still can, is mark round the filler neck where it enters the tank sealing grommet, remove the filler neck and measure the thickness of the sealing grommet. transfer this measurement to the filler neck, working downwards from the mark you previously made. The lower marking you now have should equate exactly to the bottom of the sealing grommet inside the tank.

Now, instead of cutting the pipe to this length, drill 4 holes at points round the pipe just below the lowest mark.

Your tank will now fill almost to the brim with no danger of the filler neck dislodging from the tank.

Hope this helps.

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Guest salty_monk

Bob,

 

Thanks, that makes perfect sense, I guess the size of hole is not too specific, should probably go for 6mm if he hose is the same diameter on the tank as it is on the filler...

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Guest paul thompson

Whilst talking of fillers, How has everyone made thier flap seal against the end of the neck? Mine leaks a bit when full and makes a loverly mess down the back panel. I know that the rubber ring on the flap touches the end of the tube cause I have to compress the spring to get it to shut. The end of the tube looks a bit rough though, maybe I should take it out and polist it up a bit.

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