Jump to content

Capri Clocks


Guest Steve Allen

Recommended Posts

Guest Steve Allen

Hi does anybody know the correct way to wire the Amp gauge on a set of Capri clocks. They are all in and looking good, last job is to wire the Amp, bit worried about blowing the lot up. I have a yellow and red wire coming from the clocks but not sure what they should go through.

Thanks Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve never wired up an Ammeter but I think that everything goes through it on the + line to the battery except the starter motor. This way, when the alternator is charging, the needle goes over to the + side and when the IG is on and the engine is not running, it goes over to the - side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to have Capri clocks in my Series III. I connected one of the wires directly to the battery and the other directly to the output of the alternator. Can't remember which colour to which though. To test if it is working correctly turn the ignition on and the headlights, the meter should go negative indicating that the battery is not being charged. With the engine running the meter should never go negative as the alternator is supplying enough power to cope with the load.

 

I believe the meter is actually a very sensitive voltmeter, which in a Capri measured the potential difference across a resistive wire. This resistive wire was not fitted in my hood so I suspect that the meter showed less movement as it is measuring the potential difference accross a straight piece of wire between battery and alternator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
I’ve never wired up an Ammeter but I think that everything goes through it on the + line to the battery except the starter motor.  This way, when the alternator is charging, the needle goes over to the + side and when the IG is on and the engine is not running, it goes over to the - side.

Usually with an ammeter this would be the case. However the Capri Ammeter is actually a milli-voltmeter. In the Capri it is connected across a 'shunt' (the fuseable link) between the battery +12VDC and the cars +12VDC supply. This way when the alternator is charging there will be a slightly higher voltage on the alternator side of the fuseable link because of it's resistance, however when the engine is not running and say the lights are on there will be a slightly higher voltage on the battery side of the fuseable link.

 

DO NOT connect the car electrics through the ammeter as this will blow it even with out the starter. I think you will find that Niduncan's advice is the way to go although I cannot confirm this as I am yet to wire it up on mine.

 

Let me know how you get on as I do plan to get around to it one day.

 

Cheers, Boggie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...