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Rear Shocks


Guest salty_monk

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Guest salty_monk

Have pics below of my rear end! (ooh err!).

I have the Monroe coilovers fitted which are marked:

 

Rover, NAM N536 Monroe 8116280 600

 

As you can see in the pics I also have RHE's smaller inner spring bodge to stiffen them up fitted!

 

I would like to replace the units or at least fit some stiffer lowering springs (Gap at the moment from bottom (lip not the inner top) of the arch is approx 140mm! Hoping a single spring will stop the squeaking I currently get when the 2 springs rub against each other too!)

 

So the questions: (as ever!!) :D

 

Is there anything I can do to move the arches front to back to even them up (the wheel is much nearer the front & that is the "good" side!!

 

What weight springs should I use & where can I get them from or am I better going for an adjustable platform Spax or something in which case the same question apply.

 

Would like to lower the arches by about 80mm I think as this would leave enough clearance for the back axle (round mounts at the front end) where it bolts to the body (as from what I can see, lowering the springs would drop these by about the same amount)

 

Cheers!!

 

(p.s. - pics taken whilst the diff was out & before I painted the axle & chassis - it looks better than this now - honest!!)

 

RS%20001.jpg

Shocks.jpg

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Guest chris brown

It looks about right for a 2B according to Richard there is supposed to be a large gap between the wheel and the wing at the top. Much less that you’ve got and you will be grounding out on every pot hole and man hole cover you ran over. :wacko:

 

Is there anything I can do to move the arches front to back to even them up
I suspect not this is one of the hardest parts of the build to get right (one side of mine is good the other is not so good. crap )
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Guest salty_monk

That's a "python" lock - good bit of kit, you can run it through all 4 wheels & then through the chassis & spare & lock it. Got to be as good as a "discklock" (if you could find one to fit a 11" wheel!

 

I don't believe I can't drop the back end from 14cm. Bill & Joey's is much lower. The suspension is far too soft (so it grounds out anyhow, pivots from front to back as the front is stiff & back is soft) so it wants changing!

 

Any ideas on spring weight??

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Gordon,

 

The Zeemerides are OK for SVA but I'd suggest getting rid of them as soon as possible. I believe they're modified Mini units. I've never heard anything good said about them (unless speaking about the price).

 

Anyway, I reckon they are underdamped for this application. Flap about like a flappy thing - far too springy, which is one reason you'll be bottoming out. A mate of mine has these and on an undulating road it bottoms out <crunch> ... <crunch> ... <crunch> - very, very nasty. It's the handbrake cable flange hitting the deck, so if your handbrake is in the passenger footwell you might consider moving it to the tunnel top to get that extra bit of clearance.

 

Pay out for a decent set of Spax or Konis and your car will be transformed! Sure, it hurts when you get your wallet out but just think how much bigger your grin will be at the first corner after fitting...

 

IMHO of course...

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Guest gordon_macnab

John,

 

I have been thinking about changing the zeemerides but haven't got round to it yet. The bottoming out's not too frequent depending on road conditions but the back end does squat down noticeably under acceleration but that's probably due to trying to keep the power under control. Corners do come up quite quickly though.

 

As for bigger grins , not sure this is possible as the grin factor with the cossie lump is high on the scale, but always on the lookout for more fun.

 

Cheers

 

Gordon

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