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Cycle Wings


Guest Ant

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I tried to fit my cycle wings tonight, but without success. I already have the brackets fitted (new type, round collars to join the sections from the multibend tube), and the tubes are about 10 to 15mm from the tyres. The tyres are near the 1.6mm limit so new tyres will have less space!

 

Anyway, I seem to be right on the front and rear edges of the fibreglass with my tubes, and I don't think that the front of the fibreglass is going to be vertically above the front of the tyre for the SVA. I also don't seem to be able to get an even gap when viewed from the side. Either the fibreglass is too short or I have done something wrong. I was going to rivinut into the tubes and fit setscrews through the fibreglass, but I now think that I need about a 1 inch spacer between the brackets and the wings, and they're just too short!

 

Has anyone got any close up pictures of their cycle wings where I can see the type of gaps which are normal? Any words from the wise?

 

Ant

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Guest neil gale

Ant

 

Not sure how much this will help, but it may... (see pic)

 

I have about 10-15mm clearance between tyre and brackets, and the cycle wings seem to fit ok. The arch is not fully over front of wheel though

 

It took a lot of trying and checking the lengths of the brackets and then aligning the cycle wing from the side by eye to get it symmetrical over the tyre.

 

I welded the wider tube onto the multi bend legs, which then fits over the tube of the main bracket and is bolted together, i didnt like the idea of forcing one tube inside the other by splitting the end.

 

Will post a better pic which shows the brackets more close up

post-5-1053068381.jpg

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Guest DaveB

Hi Neil

 

Looking at your picture I see you have used pipe lagging for edge protection I seem to remember seeing a post saying that this is not acceptable for the SVA as it needs to be permanent. I have tackled this by fitting another set of bellows using a bush at the track rod end and tywraps to fix.

 

Dave :D

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Guest neil gale

Cheers Dave,

 

I remember reading smething similar.

 

I think i will wait and see what mr inspector has to say, as they seem to differ greatly on what would seem inportant issues!!!!

 

Might turn out to be ok, who knows??? :blink:

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This is how i spaced my wing's, i used 4 tap washers bought from plumbing supplies and a 5mm stainless dome head bolt. There's not much clearance from tyre but as they move together it should never connect.

post-5-1053178304.jpg

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Neal

Hope you don't mind the comment's but i think you have gone to far with the lagging. The only things with "contactable edge" is the nuts, steering extension and the bottom of the shockers heres a pic of how mine passed SVA apart from i have removed tape "thick insulation type"from the shocker base.

The round tubes dont have sharp edges so are not a fail point. Go around your car and any point you can see which is'nt 2.5mm radiused either cover or file a blunted edge on.

Hope this helps

Mitch

Good luck with the test

post-5-1053179043.jpg

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Thanks for the help so far guys. I now have a couple of ideas to work with. 2 more questions:

 

1) What are the SVA rules and regs with regard to cycle wings? I know they have to cover the sides of the tyre tread, but what about front to back? Any minimum height of the back for stones flying up? The reason I ask is that I'm considering exchanging the rear arms and moving the wings further forward as a result.

 

2) Seeing how we're on to covering sharp edges, what's that used in the photo above on the ends of the box sections where the wishbones go?

 

Cheers

 

Ant

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Hi Ant

It's just thin snap on edge trim. I put a strip of insulation tape on the edge just to make sure it did'nt come off on the way there (you could use glue).

This was tested at Chadderton Manchester test centre.

No comment was made about how perminant it would be.

All other nuts were either nut covered or taped up to remove sharp edge's

HTH

Mitch

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Guest neil gale

Cheers mitch

 

I thought i had gone a bit OTT on the pipe lagging.

Just left the lagging over the tie bars, but it failed sva cos it wasnt sufficiently robust, he said something sturdier was required?? Any ideas??

 

He suggested shrink wrap stuff (must be pretty thick to provide round edges)

 

I thought maybe some rubber hose, or the like, and attached a bit better than just black pvc tape this time?

 

Any suggestions anyone?

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Guest SteveL

Hi Neil

 

I intend to fit some flexible convoluted tubing (normally used to house wiring) over the tie bars (LINK). I've got some without a slit, so I'll have to take off the ball joint on the end, thread it on, and squash it down, and then put the ball joint back on. I may need to wrap foam or something else round parts of the tie bar to stop it moving too much, but it should be okay.

 

I believe that other people have used another set of "bellows" as are already on the steering rack to cover the tie bars.

 

Steve

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Guest neil gale

Steve

 

Uncanny!

 

I just ordered lots of the convoluted tubing (with slit) for my wiring to make sure it passes next time, from vehicle wiring products!

 

Not sure how well the slit stuff will stay on, but i could always glue the ends togther once its on! :unsure:

 

Should arrive fri or sat so hope it works!

 

Cheers mate :D

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Guest DaveB

I used the bellows method the standard Sierra ones work just fine I made up some bushes 40 X 10 with 13mm bore for the outside edge see Piccy.

 

Good Luck

 

Dave B :D :D

post-5-1053536871.jpg

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Guest DaveB

Hi Jon

 

I use an enamal called C71 from HMG paints in Manchester they are really helpful I have rung there tech team a couple of times and they really do want to help. Here is their web address you will need to register to get the tech stuff or use my password PRECIOUS HMG Paints they will mix any RAL colour you want and are sat am if you are local or post.

 

Cheers

 

Dave B :D

 

P.S. HMG are one of the main suppliers to Brown Brothers

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