Speed Up My Build!

[Nigel Rogers]

I haven't touched my 2B build in weeks. Keeping the peace by doing some home improvements has stopped my 2B build in it's tracks. Why?

 

Drilling Porcelain Tiles :gdit: :boohoo: :gdit:

 

Has any one had the misfortune?

 

I have tried everything including an expensive purpose made Armeg bit exactly as per the instructions. (That broke too!) So far I have found Glass drill bit's are the best, but it's taking over 30 minutes per hole and it's driving me mad, I've got loads to do and it's taking up valuable hood building time.

 

Any suggestions that will help me get the job done and back to building my 2B would be gladly received!

 

Cheers

Nige

[Guest Jaffer]

Keeping the peace by doing some home improvements has stopped my 2B build

 

.... I've got one of those coming up ... well two actually... Hall, stairs and Landing for Muv-in-law and new Bathroom for HQ .... still I hope to still be able to fit in a few Hood minutes here and there...

 

 

Drilling 'Porcelain' tiles.... [are they different from ceramic tiles?]... are we talking wall tiles or floor tiles? Roughly how thick are they? What are they fixed too? What drill are you using?

 

I've not had any prob's with wall tiles using either a tungsten spade drill, [like a glass drill] or regular 'masonic' drill. Floor tiles can be a bit harder but still quite drillable. Tiles will crack when drilling if they have been put up without covering the whole of the back of the tile, i.e. put up using a couple of dabs of adhesive.... this is a pain in the arse but is often done on new builds for speed.

 

Let us have a bit more info' and we'll try to think of something!! [PM me if you like]

 

Jaff

[Guest TerryBarry]

You might find THIS GUIDE handy.

If tiles are being drilled in the horizontal position a small reservior can be build around the hole with blu-tak or putty and filled with water to act as coolant/lubricant.

[Nigel Rogers]

Thanks Guys,

 

These porcelain tiles are hard, they cut OK with an electric tile cutter. But drilling them is a nightmare. The guide is excellent Terry, glad I asked now !

 

Cheers

Nigel

[Guest chris brown]

filled with water to act as coolant/lubricant.

Never heard of using water I was taught to use linseed oil and a normal masonry drill in a hand drill so you can feel what is happening none of your lectric stuff

[Guest Daren.F]

I had to fit a doc M pack in a wet room (lots of holes to drill) the tiles used a drill bit per hole (Flat tile drill) I tried lots of brands but found the best method was an air drill and a dribble of water from a hose to keep the bit cool and loads of pressure.

I lost money on that job :gdit:

[Guest micky bigthumbs]

I Use ordinary masonary bit in reverse not to fast or it hardens the glaze

[Snapperpaul]

I bought the Hood after finishing most of my DIY obligations however drilling holes in wall or floor tiles i used the simple arrowhead diamond tile drills from B&Q ( they last forever if you let them do the work and don't lean on them to hard) bigger holes chain drill and use a tungsten blade in a jig saw or if your bored and want to kill some time a hand tile saw.

[Guest coopsuk]

Nigel

 

A couple of years ago I bought some drill bits for doing just this type of job.

 

I think there were from Screw Fix, I beleive there were the multipurpose ones (but can check part numbers if you would like).

 

These fly though tiles and I have never broken a bit or a tile whilst using them.

 

Coops

[Nigel Rogers]

Thanks for all your reply's. With your help and after some major progress last night, I think I have sussed where I was going wrong.

 

More lubrication, apart from with the Armeg bit I had just been quenching my drill bits in water now & again to cool them. Kept the bit wet all the time and got somewhere.

 

Cheers

Nigel