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Nigel Rogers

RHOCaR Member
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About Nigel Rogers

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    Wheely good builder!

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    Nigel Rogers

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    Rebuilding kit cars, never getting the chance to sail yachts and going on holiday

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  1. Hi All, Trying to get my car ready for an MOT and it’s developed an issue with the headlights, probably because its been stood for years. All the lights work as they should when operating them with the ignition at position 2. When the car is running, all the lights work as they should apart from the headlights stay on when they’re switched off. If I flick the high beam on an off, the headlights switch off. I’ve attached my car’s wiring diagram, does anyone have a diagram/picture showing which relay is which in a standard sierra fuse box? I suspect a dim/dip relay and want to start with 42 on the diagram.. Many Thanks Nigel
  2. Hi, I went for the Flutra pump, as a replacement for my leaking one but haven’t fit a regulator as yet. I still haven’t worked how fuel regulators actually work when they don’t seem to have a return line, so interesting to see the comments about feed and return lines. My engine seems to be running well without a regulator, but I do have a new carb and haven’t actually driven it as yet as it needs an MOT.
  3. Hello all, after a long running saga with actually getting my car to run smoothly, which was a combination of issues including a worn out carb and a leaking inlet valve on No 3, my fuel pump decided to let go, leak all over the garage floor, stink the house out and get me in more trouble . Looking at new pumps and I have come across this Flutra one from McGill Motorsport http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/flutra-competition-fuel-pump-2-4-4-psi-50-litres-hour-282/. Has anyone used one? Would you fit a pressure regulator with a pump of this pressure rating for a DGV carb on a pinto? Would you use a higher rated pump with a pressure regulator to ensure 3psi? Any recommendations gladly received. Many Thanks Nige
  4. Thanks all, I'll try fresh fuel and I hadn't thought about the float valve. I'll also double check the timing and keep trying. Now off to negotiate car time with management
  5. Hi All, I am struggling to start my car after replacing the head gasket. It's sort of spluttering but not much more, I've cleaned and gapped plugs, checked connections and made sure fuel is getting to the carb. One thing I am wondering is whether the fuel is stale, it's been in the tank a couple of years and is what I'd describe as a golden rather than straw colour. Does fuel go off that much the engine won't even run? It's a 2.0L pinto with DGV carb. Many Thanks Nigel
  6. Is the GBS Zero easier to build than the old Robin Hood models, so there are just not as many questions? Are they just not shifting as many units a year as Robin Hood did so there are less builders? Is there just less money in people's pockets and can they even afford to buy houses with garages to even consider a build? (There's a lock up available to rent near me if anyone needs one!). Do the younger generation possess the skills needed to do DIY, never mind build a car? I could go on and on but I must admit, there's so much great info on the site that I search and find answers to questions I have a lot of the time rather than starting new posts. Only food for thought. Cheers Nige
  7. 10 months and 5 days after we moved house and my 2b is finally out of a lockup and in the garage. It's a very tight fit but it's in. Just need to: Change the head gasket, Fit a new camshaft, Sort out the front wheel arches. Get a decent alternator bracket fabricated - Any suggestions? Get more new headlights, the silvers come off the ones I bought to pass the IVA, Get rid of the alligator bonnet - Do you just use a jigsaw to cut it into 2? Take it for its first MOT Feeling motivated.......once I've fitted a new cloakroom suite....there's always something! By the way, was it anyone on here with a white 2B at Lyme Green in Macclesfield earlier? Cheers Nige
  8. I offered my dash in position and determined where it would be best to fit brackets so that they would secure the dash but not interfere with wiring and instruments etc. whilst being positioned so that I could access the brackets where I drilled screw holes for fixing with self tappers to the chassis rail and tunnel top. I then made the brackets up and bolted them to the wooden dash backboard before I covered the dash in foam and then finished with vynil. Once all finished I just screwed the dash through the pre drilled holes in the brackets and chassis, I have 7 brackets, 3 are screwed to the chassis and 4 at the top are a sort of lazy S shape that hold the dash to the chassis rail. Cheers Nige
  9. I have 4 x 14" inch steel wheels from my donor car available to anyone who wants them and can collect them from Macclesfield area before the 31st October after which I will be putting them on th tip. 3 of the tyres (185 65 14) are OK, 2 x 4.5mm & 1 x 6.0mm, the other one is legal! PM me if you want them. Cheers Nige
  10. Just seen this idea for a brake spreader and thought I'd share it
  11. Hi, A Zeus book is really handy, they are available from Amazon and eBay. You can also print this out http://www.green-oval.com/data/zeus.pdf
  12. Thanks for the replies I had exactly the same thoughts about what effects this valve would have, it doesn't seem to have caused more wear on the cam lobe and when I think about it I remember a couple of times when there were "pops" from the carburetor that led me to check the timing. I haven't actually used the car that much, I've run the engine during the build, whilst playing with the cooling, at the IVA and a few spins round the block, so it's never been driven hard. Whilst it's an ancient engine, it looked to be in good enough condition not to start having it re-bored etc. for a car that never is going to do high miles. All I can think about the inlet valve adjustment, is that I just missed adjusting the valve completely when I refitted the valves after the unleaded seats were done, all the others were perfect. I'll put it back together get the gunson out to check the mixture, run it with the cap off and see where I go from there. Cheers Nige
  13. Hi All, Well I found the reason why No 2 cylinder compression was low, the inlet valve was wrongly adjusted so never actually closed. I also took the top hose off and the water level was actually in the neck of the thermostat housing level with the water in the rad. I have a small hole drilled in the thermostat so water did have somewhere to go. My question is: would a wrongly adjusted inlet valve cause the engine too run hot? (it was way out) It's worth noting that I've never actually managed to stop the engine from running on the rich side and it's always been a bit "sooty" when cold, I have blamed this on a worn carburetor as it was the same after I serviced the carburetor. I'm just trying to eliminate everything before this gets expensive! Many Thanks Nige
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