Dean Roberts

I will have a look around. Under the impression the bias is set up after bleeding system. I do remember you need to bleed servo brakes furthest first. Not sure about bias systems?

New bigger discs, new bigger calipers, new bigger pads fitted. Dave fitted new braided hoses, new cylinders, new reservoirs and pedal box with bias. Original setup worked but didn't stop car. New setup when brakes pressed work better when cold. But when overheating nose dips, both front wheels lock up to the extent rear wheels spin and fronts lock up leaving 2 nice black lines in the road. In fact if this how good the brakes are supposed to be when you press them hard, then they are very good and the car won't budge. Is heat causing the fluid to expand and because I have braiddd lines it's got no where to go except push out the new pistons? Being both lock up at same time logic makes me think the same as you guys faulty master cylinder, but it's newish? Or just the push rod not returning correctly due to bias bar? Emptied brake fluid, removed wheels, calipers, discs, master cylinder and now checking everything Methodically and testing each part.

The fact both discs lock up completely after a short distance makes me think same as Steve and Florin. At the master cylinder or bias bar. As when the brakes were done everything ran freely, now even after cooled down are tight to move and will easily overheat.

Flushed system and used identical fluid and previous setup.

Any way of testing the master cylinder is working ?

OK discs cooled down, wheels off but the discs are solid and not moving. It's like Florin said, brakes stuck on. Time to climb upside down into foot well and fingers crossed not get stuck.

Yep same setup with cylinders and bias bar. Discs are cooling now and starting to free up.

Just got back home after 2 hrs 45 mins and 4 stops for brakes to cool down. Just jacked her up and both front wheels are locked solid and brake pedal rock solid. Faulty master cylinder? No leaks anywhere, will get dinner, drink, recharge phone whilst waiting for them to cool down and then another strip down and rebuild of calipers if required.. But to be honest the pistons slid freely and the wheels spun freely after fitting. So completely baffled unless it's the master cylinder or pushrod. Don't fancy driving to Stoneleigh in it, will take forever. Would be quicker driving to Cornwall

I will say this, since sitting on sliproad and waiting for them to cool down, the pedal has gone rock hard like a build up of pressure.

Master cylinder is just below maximum mark as normal.

New pads, and rebuilt calipers, first trip out since bleeding brakes.

Need to get home, jack front up and spin wheels to see if it's both or just one wheel. Personally I believe it's both front wheels and piping is rock solid. Managed another mile and the front dipped and now stuck on slip road waiting for either the pressure to release or pass cool down before another mile....

Front brakes keep overheating on short journeys and seizing up. Just resting in hard shoulder and waiting for them to cool down, before returning home. Brakes have been bleed multiple times, no air and runs freely when jacked up and cold. Any ideas? As it can't even get 5 miles down the road before locking up. Slight burning smell from pads and discs are to hot.

Thx kids, time to start ringing around for a couple.

10mm thick spacers fitted perfectly after getting some flanged 12mm bolts. Hopefully when it's bled and back on the road, I can confirm it brakes better on the rollers.

Brake caliper: reducer adapter connector Its the fitment between the front brake caliper and the braided lines. It was a bit stubborn to get out and resorted to brute force - hammer and chisel. I would like to replace it, but cannot find like for like and unsure of measurements etc... Any ideas, suggestions, descriptions and where the best place to get them would be greatly appreciated.

Just to confirm if anybody was interested: I managed to get everything running smoothly with little effort using the following: Mondeo V6 Mk1 carriers, calipers and test discs from the tat yard New Mintex pads and discs for Mondeo V6 Mk 1 Flanged M12 x40mm (high tensile 10.9) bolts cut down to 36mm Caiper refurbish kit Spacers 25mm O.D 12mm I.D 10mm Thick Didn't break the bank and a third of the price of any equivalent big brake kit , great learning curve and hopefully fingers crossed they work

Finished up this morning and completed both front brake calipers, carriers, pads and discs: M12 holes drilled: High tensiles 10.9 M12 bolts cut down from 40mm to 36mm and fits perfectly with the M12 x 10mm thick spacers: Ooooooo big & shiney & new mintex pads: Fits nice and snug and moves freely (better than originals): Wheels on and next bleed the system and bed them in before the MOT: A very satisfying job and next on the agenda will be the rear disc conversion.

"unless you can get hold of some 2wd Cosworth items" ....And pay the Cosworth tax I thought the Mondeo path was far cheaper and easier to get.

Quick dig around and found this (M10 high tensile bolts (10.9) for calipers): http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_m10_x_25mm_caliper_bracket_bolt_f_1471746_c_1588.htm ....If its good enough for Ford, then its good enough for me. Time to order the M12 flanged high tensile (10.9) bolts and take the easy route to fitting

Time to find a Ford Parts department!

EDIT: After test fitting last night , found that the spacers need to be the following: O.D: 25mm I.D: 12mm Thickness: 12mm (not 10mm as originally thought.) Bolts are M12 high tensile (12.9) 40mm, but required a 2mm washer to fit correctly : Do I cut bolts down to 38mm (+ added pain of tightening the top bolt) Get M12 flanged high tensile bolts (but only available up to 10.9 and awaiting confirmation if this is adequate?)

I have thought about a M12 flanged hex bolt (as they are available at 10.9), but need to confirm with Ford what the original M10 threads are? Unless some knowledgeable person on here knows what the original M10 threads are, holding the carriers? (I cannot read the top of the original bolt heads to see what strength they were.) But yes, I like your thinking if this makes fitting them easier.

Done a little bit more work last night refurbishing the calipers: Drilling the M12 holes: Test fitting the calipers with the new bolts and spacers: Hmmmm....high tensile bolts are 2mm to long, so plonked in a washer, then pondered how to ratchet top hex socket? As extensions and knuckles catch on the nut & bolt: So they look OK and centred/ran freely when the test disc was fitted:

Been a little busy since September Now need to get the old one thru the MOT and sell it. ....And the new one thru the MOT to drive it. Then find a new job