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Misternomer

RHOCaR Member
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About Misternomer

  • Rank
    Builder
  • Birthday 11/20/1974

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    S7
  • Full name
    Richard Lack

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Maidstone
  • Interests
    Young black and gifted, but failing at all three.

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  1. Got it - airflow is king. I actually think the position of the rad at the moment, aside from being held on by zip ties, is also screening the engine block from airflow - making it even harder to dump heat.
  2. How does this look at a solution. Moving the water temperature sensor into a neat alloy housing and shortening the house. Any thoughts on whether it would make sense to add an expansion tank? I will also take the nose cone off and see if there is space to put the rad in the cone, but there is some obstruction due to the inboard shocks.
  3. Actually I think the strange fabrication is a temp sender. The electric fan is on a switch on the dash rather than thermostatically controlled. It’s either on all the time, or off. Have just done some searching and found this temp sender adapter which should allow me to straight line the hose from thermostat housing to rad top. vs. going via somewhere north of Birmingham as it does now.
  4. Actually I think the strange fabrication is a temp sender. The electric fan is on a switch on the dash rather than thermostatically controlled. It’s either on all the time, or off.
  5. So I had a good look at the problem at the weekend and discovered the following: - That tiny fan is indeed wired up backwards and pushing against the airflow In other words - it's doing f%^$ all, badly - There are gaps around the rad so large that I expected to find a Romanian clinging on for dear life. Clearly no actual air is hitting the matrix. - Previous owner has fabbed their own thermostat housing (see pics) which is a little unorthodox, as well as having crazy pipework as pointed out already. Why on earth wouldn't you just buy a housing?
  6. Now that I like a lot Brumster. That gives me a standard to work to so you have a hermetically sealed nosecone rear to engine bay. Can I see that you've actually used rubber trim at all the jointed surfaces? Proper job Is there a reason you chose to pull the air rather than push? Was clearance against the crank pulley an issue? Am I right in thinking your fan is about 10"?
  7. Thanks Ian. This makes a lot of sense - I'll post some more detailed photos later when I get a chance - so if I am understanding you correctly - the optimal flow would be engine-bottom_to_rad-bottom_to_thermostat housing(top of rad)_to_engine top connection in other words the coolant is flowing up through the rad cores ensuring the air stays at the top of the rad and the coolant flow is sympathetic to the convection flow.
  8. Another wider shot for context:
  9. Sorry - I thought I'd added pics already!
  10. do the pics you can see in the OP help at all? I can confirm that it definitely IS overheating - stinks, steams and splutters out the cap!
  11. Thanks - that's really useful. The current fan only covers about a 3rd of the SA of the matrix. I am worried about clearance against the crank pulley, but both Spal and Airconco look incredibly thin
  12. HI everybody. I am a new member and have just bought an 2000cc pinto S7 with my son and we are having some shakedown issuesadd with overheating. The previous owner was a builder of BRM racecars and seems to have done a great job with the exception of cooling issue. Basically we heat up to 90norm in minutes and starts to overheat after more than a few mins in traffic. Even when running at 50mph on a cool day (14c ambient) - it never really shed the head and sits between 100-110c Shortly before selling, previous owner fitted a new twin core aluminium radiator, and a small electri
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