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Thrashed

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Everything posted by Thrashed

  1. Aug, Sept & Oct 2019 So the exams have been going well. Passed 2 so far with just 4 more to go. Over the last few months i have had a few hours here and there to have a look at the issues that stopped me and Stu getting the engine running. First off the list was the oil cooler. I assumed the gasket was in as it was not in the parts to fit pile. I pulled the oil cooler off. First thing i noticed was the bolts were only finger tight! This might be the issue, but i kept going to make sure the gasket was in. It was, so bolted it all back together and torqued the bolts. Next was to have a look at the fuel cut switch as to why it would stop the fuel feed. Checked for continuity and all appears the be working with nothing obviously wrong. I added spade terminals the the wiring so that it can be removed from the circuit if it continues to play up. Other jobs have been to calibrate the TPS. This turned out to be a much bigger job than i thought. After a few different days of trying to get it to work i had to go back to basics. I tested the TPS to ensure that the unit was working. This tested out all ok, next i tested the wiring. I continuity tested and resistance tested the wiring and again not issues, but it was still not working. The only logical conclusion was that the ECU was faulty, so sent this off to trigger wheels, who tested the ECU and this was all fine?? At this stage i was at a complete lose, each item in the system works but the ECU did not read the TPS. Stu popped over for another go at testing and trying to get the engine to run. Everything seemed to be in place and all my tests were good. Stu then noticed that the plug that connects to the ecu was not seated properly. On further investigation one of the locating tabs was broken off. No idea when or how this happened, but this was stopping the loom connecting. This ended the few hours of work with emails to trigger wheels to see what could be done. Long story short, it is nothing. The ECU is a sealed unit. There suggestion was to use cable ties to pull the loom plug tight into place.
  2. 6.7.2019 So today was the big day! With a level 4 diploma starting shortly today is make or break. If the engine starts it has a chance of being back on the road for spring 2020, if not then the car will mostly likely sit in the garage until Aug/ Sept 2020 before i can start work on it!! So, with no pressure! Stu (Duck) came over armed with his laptop and see if we could make Choo, Choo noises from the engine. We started with checking and calibrating the crank sensor. We then proceeded to trying to get the engine to fire. All of this took several hours as the engine would just not fire. The first issue was that the fuel pump was no priming? After several hours of messing about we removed the fuel cut off switch from the look and the fuel pump started working. We then found a few more issues, like about a litre of engine oil pouring all over the floor! At this stage it was early evening and we could not find the issue. After Stu left i had a look and it appears the oil leak is from the oil cooler. I then tried to remember if i fitted the gasket?? And did i torque up the bolts? Also the whole coolant system is leaking. I tried the system without swaging the ends of the ali tubes but every single one leaked! This means the car will be locked up now until Summer 2020 as the diploma will now take up all of my spare time! Gutted it didnt work but maybe fresh eyes in the future might reveal the issues.
  3. 4.7.2019 Had a few hours over the evenings, so thought I would focus on ticking off the speed sensor. Needed to make a bracket to mount the sensor close enough to the diff bolts but rigid enough as the sensor needs to be within 2mm! I tried to make the bracket out of some 3mm steel, but i couldn't bend it in the metal brake and smashing it in the vice did not give a good enough bend. Next up was some 2mm aluminium. This was thin enough to bend in the brake but strong enough to not flex. I then fixed the bracket to the tunnel floor panel that is welded to the chassis from the factory. I used M8 bolts and clamped it down tight. Didn't want any vibration causing the sensor to make contact with the diff bolts. The next step was to fit the sensor so it is 2mm from the bolt faces. Trying to find something that was 2mm thick to use as a spacer lead me to using a 2p. It was pretty close to 2mm think! The sensor just has 2, 13mm nuts, so adjusted to fit. The net result is a sensor that i about 2mm from the bolt heads and rocksteady. Just the cable to tidy up and that will be job done. Another item off the list.
  4. 23.6.2019 Not been much progress over the last few weeks due to work commitments. I did a to do list to get me to the finish, which looks like this: This weekend I managed to get a few items ticked off. The Spartan Wideband is in with just the sensor to be fitted into a bung in the exhaust. I installed the little LED into the dash that flashes to confirm the state of the wideband, so i can monitor too cold, too hot or normal. I then started on the fiddly wiring jobs. This was fitting the new steering wheel along with the 2 new buttons. The old steering wheel was very small 255mm d shape wheel. This was great until you are moving at speed as it made the steering a little twitchy and when parking, the steering is so heavy it needed changing! I swapped to the 285mm version, which still feels good in my hands, so hope this fixes the little issues. I also took the opportunity to add 2 new buttons. The right hand switch is a momentary switch for the launch control and the left hand switch is for the map switch. This will be potentially a `sports’ button, or might just be pops, bangs and flames button! I then moved onto switching out the speedo.The reason for the swap was the original was a cable driven type and the new set up will not allow this to work. The new unit also comes with lots of features that the old one didn’t. The features include a trip counter, 0-60 and max speed. Nothing i really need but nice to have. The wiring is easy enough, as most of the wiring was already in the car so was just a case of reterminating the connectors. I also added the speed sensor wiring too, which means all I need to do is fit a bracket and mount the sensor to read off the diff bolts. I started tidying up the under dash wiring, so a few cable ties and that should be finished. I made a start on the fluid reservoir level wiring. The first 2 went according to plan, but the 3rd is faulty and not working, grrr!! The overall plan will be to add connectors very close to the lids as they will need to be disconnected to unscrew them. I thought I had the connectors to make this work, but I was wrong! I have ordered new items, so will get this finished once the parts turn up. Next up was wiring in the fuel cut off switch, which was easy enough as it was only 2 wires that cut the fuel pump feed and the cam and crank sensors got wired in. Again no real dramas, just cut the shielded cable to length and fitted the terminals.
  5. 2.6.2019 Got a spare bit of time today, so decided to wrap the pedal box cover, bolt on the fluid reservoirs and mock up the expansion tank placement. Turned out ok and have ordered some M6 rivnuts so i can bolt it down, but keep it removable for future access. The chassis rail top will get some new trim. I also ordered some cable tie bases so I can secure the braided hoses out of the way of the pedals. Once this is done it will complete the braking system for now! I have a set of mondeo brake calipers to upgrade the fronts. I figure with the bit of extra power, the extra stopping power would not hurt. This upgrade is on the reserve list of upgrades, so may end up being next winters project!
  6. 19.5.2019 Not much progress this week due to work and other hobbies. Managed to get the battery tray and pedal cover wrapped. Turned out OK. A few air bubbles in the wrap, so will leave it a few days and then pop them with a pin. This week I will be remaking the bulkhead panel and wrapping this. 1st June 2019 Not been much progress in the last few as i had run out of a very important garage tool! My bucket of motivation. Luckily the club had a track day at curborough, which has given me a motivation top up. Mostly spent time making the bulkhead and remaking the pedal box cover. The bulkhead i just took a template from the old one and then trimmed to fit. Easy enough and fitted nicely. Managed to wrap it in the carbon vinyl. I was starting to think it would look a bit too much but it isn't too bad and if I get bored I can pull it off and go for a different colour. The issue then came when I tried the pedal box cover. It was all the wrong shape and size, so had to start again. Version 2 worked much better and the fluid reservoirs fit up nicely. I just need to wrap it to match and then fit using some rivnuts. I did some more work on the wiring but nothing to show. This was just wrapping the loom and running wires to the desired locations. Some of the wires will not be long enough, so will be extended and some need terminating. This will just be a case of slow and steady!
  7. 12.5.2019 Not much visible progress this week. I drilled out the old bulkhead as the original one had more holes than swiss cheese. I will be remaking the panel, with a lot less holes. It will have a small cut out for the steering shaft, but this will not be visible as there will be a cover panel for that. The bulkhead shelf panel was remade too along with the pedal/ steering shaft cover. These panels along with the new bulkhead panel will all get wrapped in carbon effect vinyl for a bit of bling when you open the bonnet. I then moved onto tidying up the wiring and routing. Not much to see, but still loads to sort! Once it's routed it will get wrapped in conduit.
  8. 6-05-2019 This week has been sorting more issues! First part that went to plan was the coolant hoses all arrived and fitted up with the expansion tank. The expansion tank is yet to be fully fitted to the bulkhead as that needs `sorting’ it's got more holes than swiss cheese. Other and a few hose clamps the plumbing is done, so I moved onto the fluid reservoirs for the brakes and clutch. They came with a bracket that fitted all 3 in a line, that would be perfect if fitted to the bulkhead. This was the first issue. When fitted it means that the hoses that run down to the cylinders would foul on the steering column. The only real option was to move the reservoirs but where? I started playing with ideas and decided that separating the brakes from the clutch was the best idea. I used the supplied bracket and cut on of the mounts off. These then just got riveted to the chassis rails just below the surface. The plan will be, when I make the new panel for the scuttle shelf, that i can fit the panel flush and cut holes for the reservoirs. I will make this panel removable so I can access the steering column, pipework and pedal box below. The rest of the panel will be permanently fixed. The next step was to fit the new propshaft. Dave Mac made and supplied the new item, which is a great bit of kit. When I measured the length i didn't take account of how I was going to fit the prop. The diff end is sierra, so is just 4 bolts but the nose slides into the MX5 gearbox. What i did not account for was that handbrake brackets are in the way. This meant I didn't have enough space to slide the prop back, insert the nose and drop down to bolt up to the diff. The only solution was to either drop the diff out, which means all the suspension and rear driveline out, or to pull the engine and box out about 3 inches. I went for option 2 of moving the engine and gearbox and it all went back together with the prop in place after about 3 hours! The next job was then to replace the reverse plunger that fixes to the passenger side of the gearbox. I removed it whilst fitting the gearbox as i didn't want to damage it banging it on chassis railed etc. After huffing and puffing for about an hour, I could not get it to fit! I decided to take out the passenger seat and remove the passenger side tunnel panel so allow better access as i could not see what was causing the issue. It turned out that the bulbous end sticks out enough to hit the vertical chassis rail. After a lot of head scratching I came to the conclusion that the chassis rail needs to move. As the rail was moved on the drivers side already, i just matched that on the passenger side. Rail moved and ready for painting All painted and the reverse plunger installed. Just need to replace the panel and we are good to go.
  9. 22-4-2019 Today was bolting on the engine ancillaries and sorting out the plumbing. These all bolted back on without issue, all the clearances and the belt run is all back in position. This took a few hours to do but was quite satisfying as it starts to make the car look more complete. One issue I found was when i went to bolt the throttle bodies on the gasket supplied was incorrect. I messaged Dan from DanST, at 7pm on a Sunday night expecting a message back Monday and within a few minutes he messaged back. He confirmed that the gasket i had was for a CVH. An hour later I had an email with confirmation the correct gasket had been ordered and was being posted out royal mail recorded. The service that Dan offers is amazing. All issues have been sorted immediately without question. This is how a company should be run. Dan said it was not worth sending back the CVH gasket, so this will be coming with me to Stoneleigh to find a new home. The New gaskets arrived a few days later ready to bolt up. I then moved onto the plumbing. After mocking it up all wrong, i started getting all the new pipework runs in. I managed to find a diagram of a duratec that is up and running and working. I managed to reuse some of my old fittings. I got the pipe run from the water manifold to the radiator top in 32mm. I reused the old fiesta top hose as it was just the right S shape to connect from the aluminium tube that runs underneath the throttle bodies. The bypass hose was the original hose as this fits nicely under the throttle bodies and close to the engine block. Then ran the 32mm hose from the thermostat housing to the radiator bottom. The hose ran down and then parallel to the steering rack. Again, I used the original fiesta hose as it fitted the shape I needed. I am using the original fiesta oil cooler, so ran the 16mm hose from the thermostat to the oil cooler. At this stage i didn't have the parts needed to finish off the plumbing. I ordered up some new bends to run from the oil cooler to the expansion tank. I ordered a new expansion tank, which has 3 outlets. 2x 8mm and 16mm. This will bolt to the bulkhead. One of the 8mm outlets will connect to the expansion tank. The other will run from the other 8mm outlet to the outlet on the top off the radiator. I have also bought a non pressurised radiator cap now i have the expansion tank. Once all the new parts arrive i can get the plumbing finished and test for leaks! I have all new spring clips so hoping this all holds tight. As a bit of bling i ordered the 8mm hoses in clear and will be running orange coolant fluid. Saw this on a car recently that was running pink fluid and i thought it looked cool. Worst case it looks rubbish and i change it all back to black!
  10. 18-4-2019 So the Bank holiday awaits, which means i will get 2-3 solid days run at getting the car rebuilt. As a bit of a head start i got one of the little fabrication jobs out the way. I made an adapter for the coil pack. This would allow the Audi coil pack to sit in place of the original Fiesta version. I chunk of aluminum and drill bit and a tap and we have an adapter plate! The plate will need `shaping’ once i confirm 100% how it will fit on the engine and scuttle area. The east i will do is take of the sharp corners. 19-4-2019 (Good Friday) Only managed a few hours on the car today. The main jobs were to get the engine and box back together and then to get them into the car, hopefully for the last time. The second job was to get the pedal box back in and make the short pipes what goes from the master cylinders to the bulkhead fittings on the footwell end panel. The pedal box was easy enough to bolt back in place and fitting up the master cylinders all slotted together easily. The pipe work went easy enough and the end result looked pretty good. This all went to plan but doing it on your own is never easy. Finally gave in got my lovely wife to help, which allowed the engine and box to just drop in. The engine looks lost in the engine bay! It will get a bit busier when the battery is back in and the plumbing goes in, but that's a job for Bank Holiday Monday.
  11. 14.4.2019 This weekend has been mainly painting! Is it wrong that i like the smell a little too much? Before the painting I welded in the engine cross brace. This was just as awkward as the other side as the top and side is ok, but the inside, vertical and underneath is a pain. Whilst waiting for the etch primer to dry on the chassis i made a start on the gearbox and starter motor. I washed down the gearbox with some degreaser and then wire wheeled the whole gearbox and starter motor. I then used some silver paint to brighten it up and it turned out OK. The pictures make it look better than in the flesh, but when it is stuck in transmission tunnel it will do. Whilst these were drying i moved onto the engine. Same process of degreasing and then wire wheeling. The dremel has earned its place this weekend, but the tiny little metal splinters that throw off the tools are not fun. They fling everywhere and stick in your clothes and skin! Remember your PPE kids! This all sounds very quick and easy, but the starter motor took about an hour to clean, prep and paint. The gearbox took about 2 hours to do and the engine too about 2 hours just to clean and prep. Painting then took about 2 hours as I did it with a brush. This was easier than spraying as masking would have taken much too long and intricate. Again, the finish is not perfect, but it will do as after a few road trips it will be dirty in no time. By this time the etch primer had dried, so I moved onto spraying the chassis modifications. My main concern was getting a colour match to the satin black powdercoat. The local paint shop who supplied the paint said it would be a very close match and they were not wrong. It was an exact match. I had already used some of the can on the battery tray that i made, to house the battery in the nose of the car. As a result i ran out of paint and have a few dry spots, that will need a second coat, but the results so far look good. Next up, will be to finish off the painting on the chassis and then I can start putting it all together for, hopefully, the final time. One thing I noticed was that i am going to have to make an adapter plate for the coil pack. The mounting holes for the new Audi coil pack has different to the Fiesta ones. A piece of aluminium plate should sort this. If i get a bit thick enough i can recess the original bolts and tap holes for the new coil pack mounting bolts. The big question at this stage is, will the car be finished and ready for Stoneleigh? I only have 3 weekends left. One is the Easter bank holiday, so should give me some time to work on the car. The following weekend i am away and will not get any time on the car and the following weekend is Stoneleigh! My confidence is not high on getting it complete, but we will have to wait and see.
  12. 7.4.2019 Good progress has been made this week. Firstly the alternator has been sorted. The original Fiesta St150 alternator is controlled via a PCM (Power Control Module). This makes it impossible to use the original alternator in standard format. With the help of my local alternator man we looked at 2 options. Replace the internals of the Fiesta alternator with a regulator that will work on a kit car or fit an external regulator to achieve the same. The second option is to fit a totally new alternator that fits the same bolt pattern, fits the space and keeps the belt run in line. After a couple of days work, both options are possible. The external regulator was the only option to keep the original alternator, so I opted for a new alternator. Got this home and bolted up and fired up the engine. Ignition light came on, went out when the engine started and showed a 14.4v output at the battery. Very happy boy. This meant that I am now onto the strip down, clean and final rebuild. Dropped the engine and box out again (hopefully, for the final time) and made a start on the final works. I started with the new panels. The footwell end panel was the most complicated as it needed to fit around the new pedal box, master cylinders and steering column. I had to do it in 2 parts but i think the end result turned out well. (Please ignore the white protective wrap) This will get riveted into place once the cleaning and painting has been completed. I then moved onto the tunnel panels. At the foot end I kept the panel on the outside of the chassis railed to give an extra 30mm of foot width. As this came towards the tunnel i then brought this inside the car. The plan will be to have the main panels removable. These will be held in with rivnuts and button head bolts. This will make accessing the tunnel for installing and removing the gearbox much easier and will also give me easy access to the propshaft bolts. The final bit of work was to remove the other engine cross brace tube. This will stop the thermostat housing and dip stick making contact with the cross bar. The new rail needs welding but i have just copied exactly how Westfield do their chassis.
  13. Below is the video recording Stu did of the first start! Not the best quality as he was recording me through his webcam via a remote dial in IMG_4681.mov
  14. 28.3.2019 I had a quiet afternoon, so though I would see about a first start. Stuart was on the Google hangout (it's what the kids use), so was able to talk and see the car through the laptop camera, but also was able to see the laptop screen to talk me through the final setup. The last bits we needed to do was to configure the crank sensor, so unplugged the coil and injectors and hit the `GO’ button. It spun and the engine turned and the laptop read the crank pulley for the missing tooth it needed. What a relief, that the engine turned, that auxiliary belt worked and the laptop was then configured, minus the Throttle Position Sensor. We connected the sense and 5v wires together to show the throttle as wide open and then manually configures the ECU to have a bottom and top reading. The moment had come to see if it would start. Stuart had loaded a very rough map based on a pinto to get it started with everything in terms of timing and fueling on the safe side. I connected up the coil and injectors. Stu hit the record video button his end for my laptop camera and I hit the `GO’ button. It turned about 4 times and then a massive backfire! Big enough to blow the throttle bodies off the inlet manifold. They were just pushed on and not secured in any way, so was probably a bit more dramatic than it actually was. Pushed the throttle bodies back on, swapped the HT leads 180 degrees and when again. After about 3 turns it burst into life. Made me jump and made a hell of a racket with only the manifold attached and no silencer, but she is alive! I did a little garage dance to celebrate (imagine Chunk from the Goonies!). I only let it run for about 10-15 seconds as it has not coolant in the system, but it proves is works and the oil pressure light went out, so one very happy boy. The final step before final assembly is to figure out the alternator wiring. I have from the original Premier Loom the warning light and the 12v feed, but the alternator connector has 3 pins. According to the Brise website, this is for a sense wire. I wired it as per the Brise diagrams, but i am not getting anything from the alternator. The warning light is not coming on and I ran the engine again and it is not getting a charge. I tested the bulb to rule out the obvious stuff, but the bulb is working fine. I have put a post out to see if anyone knows how these should be wired as it is starting to feel like the home stretch is in sight.
  15. 4.3.2019 The last few weeks have been slow progress but managed to make some progress. All of the coolant hoses are fitted. The ends just need beading and a few brackets making but nothing major. The new brake lines are all in. Decided to go braided ptfe, for a bit of bling and ease of install. This was one line to the front and then split at a T-piece to each of the front calipers. The rear did the same and the clutch was just a single line too. The fuel system was easy too as the duratec is a dead-head system. The fuel pipe is out of the pump and into the VW fuel filter/ regulator. I fitted the regulator close to the tank as this kept the return pipe short. This now means I have everything in place except the ECU and wiring. The ECU is on order and the job for this weekend will be figuring this all out! 28.3.19 The last few weeks have been a lot of head scratching with the new wiring. I have to create a new set of circuits to make the new ECU & fuel pump work. This involved 2 new 4 way fuse boxes and 2 new relays. The fuses are for the new fuel pump, Coil pack, 2 sets of injector banks the ECU feed and the wideband feed. The relays were a main relay for the ECU and the fuel pump relay. I decided to have 2 4 way boxed so that i had a few spare ways if needed in the future. This was all reasonably easy and wired in without issue. The next step was to mount the ECU, which I did in the passenger side on the little shelf just in front of the relays. This reasonably accessible but still nicely tucked away in a dry space. I then set about figuring out what of the 35 wires were needed and which were not. This then through up a second issue that the information provided by Trigger Wheels did not match what was in my hands!! Luckily the wires are all labeled along their length as to what they are, but I decided to double check everything and ensure the wiring was sound in the plug. This was all correct and with a few amendments identified what was what. Jump ahead a few days and with Stuarts help (the Duck) he sent me a different microsquirt booklet and this was exactly the same as my ECU was wired. I decided to bundle the wires i would not be using and keep them tucked up out of the way. I felt this was safer just in case I ever need them in the future. A bit like I did with the original wiring, I wired in the wipers and heater, knowing I would never have any of them, but they are their just in case. I then set about wiring all the new bits together. A nice touch from Trigger Wheels was although I only ordered the short loom, they supplied the longer 8 feet look. This meant that every wire was long enough to reach its final destination. With that all wired to locations i left the wires just laying loose on the car and engine, just in case anything needed to be moved or changed. All the wires fed through the firewall with a bulkhead fitting what clamps around the wires are you tighten it up giving a seal to the outside. The day then came that I had run out of excuses but to power it up. Knowing nothing about ECU’s (or building cars in general!) Stuart (the Duck) popped over with his laptop to do the initial configurations. Only a few small issues cropped up initially, but we finally hit a big snag. The Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS) was not reading correctly. It had a wandering signal and would not calibrate. We set this to one side and decided we were in a position to see if it would turn and start! Awesome, the starter motor sprung into life, but no engine movement?? This then took about 10 seconds for me to remember that I had forgotten to fit the clutch and flywheel, doh! We called it a night as it was already knocking on midnight on a school day and Stu had a good 45 minute drive home on top. This left me 2 tasks to sort before trying another start. 1, check why the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) was being weird and fit the clutch and flywheel. I tackled the TPS first as this was going to be the easiest. I tested the output readings in ohms to see if the sensor looked like is would be right. As zero throttle i was getting 1.07 kohms, at ⅔ throttle i was getting 2.51 kohms and then at Wide Open Throttle is was getting 1.26 kohms. This is not correct according to the Kawasaki manual, it should be a linear reading from closed to WOT. I spoke to DanST who supplied the kit and he suggested this might be FUBAR, but to send it back, they would test it and replace if needed. In the meantime i got about separating the engine and gearbox so i could fit the clutch and flywheel. The `lazy’ plan was to leave the gearbox in the car, pull the engine back enough on the engine crane so i could fit the clutch and flywheel and then pop it all back together. This plan started to unravel as i tried to tighten up the flywheel bolts to 112nm. With the engine swinging in the air it was not possible to stop the flywheel from spinning as I used a torque wrench. The more I tried by more dangerous it started to feel. Plan B, I dropped the engine onto the floor and then removed the gearbox, realigned the clutch and torqued the bolts. I then popped the engine and box back together and called it a night. The following afternoon, before our monthly RHOCaR club meet (27.3.2019) i had a spare 2.5 hours so though, let's get the engine and box back in the car. Managed it in just over 1.5 hours and then reconnected all the ancillaries and wiring. This is not prepared and ready for the first start. This wasn't going to be today due to the club meet. I also received a call from DanST to say that the TPS is broken and he was sending out a replacement. This should be with me by 29.3.2019
  16. 17-2-2019 So, thanks to a useless parts supplier, progress has been slow the last 2 weeks. Finally got the parts from a different supplier to allow me to get the coolant system fixed. I went with a mix of silicone hoses and aluminium pipes. Obviously went for black silicone for the OEM look. The aluminium pipes i bought from a local supplier. Good bunch of blokes and have a whole rack of off cuts that can be bought cheap. Once the pipe was cut to length it all went together quickly. It is only a coolant system and I considered not beading the end of the pipes but the last thing I would want is an annoying coolant leak, so going to do it the proper way. I still need more of the 32mm pipe to finish it off but the oil cooler is done and it looks very bling! Next job this week was to fit the fuel pump and housing that Richy made for me. I finally found a good reason for having a tiny fuel tank. It means you can take it out of the car. This made working on the tank so much easier drilling the 100mm hole for the pump. I hole sawed a 32mm hole and then jigsawed out the larger hole. I then fitted rivnuts for the plate to mount too I then cut out a gasket from a piece of cork and dry fitted it all together. What an awesome job Richy did. Whilst on the tank i made a new gasket for the fuel sender. The sender will be fitted in a slightly different position as the float was never on the right place and gave odd readings on full and empty. Next jobs will be to fit the tank back in and then fit the fuel regulator/ filter. Once this is located i can then run the fuel lines to the throttle bodies. The wiring for the fuel pump will be left to when i do the ECU and other wiring bits
  17. 3.2.2019 Bit slow this week with work being busy and waiting on parts. 2 bits have turn up. The first I the blanks for the old injection holes. Nicely machined aluminium blanks that tap in and are secured with a bit of red loctite. They fit in a particular way which is why one side has the black tick. Next item to arrive was the new oil filter. This new filter is tiny. It is only 50mm deep which will fit nicely in the 70mm gap I have. I stole the idea from Caterham but tracking down the correct item was not easy! It turned out the item is a FRAM filter. The part number is PH2874 and the cheapest place I found selling the was Burton Power. Next job will be sorting the coolant hoses. The parts should arrive in the next few days so a bit more progress can be made.
  18. The next job was to dry fit all the ancillaries. This was to ensure that they all still fit and ensure i had enough clearances. The good news is that everything was fine. Everything fitted and no clearance issues. The closest was the Alternator, but i already knew this. Exhaust to the chassis rail top is about 5mm. This is the same as the pinto so i know it will be fine. Here are some pics of all the items that could contact. The other bit of good news is that i am going to be able to keep the oil cooler in its original place, meaning no need for remote filter etc. The only slight change will be to swap to a Caterham oil filter, made by FRAM. The whole filter is on 50mm deep and means it will fit the 70mm gap i have. The original filter is 75mm so it was close to fitting, but not close enough. My big fear was being a Caterham part it would be horrendously expensive, but it is only £6.70pm, Bargain! Next major job was to work out the hose runs. I kept all the original hoses from the Fiesta ST, but nothing fits! With the engine being swapped in orientation the chassis in the way for most of them or they are just not suitable. The Coolant Outlet Block has 4 outlets. I am not planning on having an expansion tank so will block this off and run the `suck/blow’ bottle like i did the Pinto. The 2 main outlets are 19mm and 32mm. The 32mm is the bottom radiator hose and the 19mm feeds to oil cooler. From the other side of the oil cooler this pipes into the thermostat housing (the bypass connector). The main Thermostat output is 32mm and feeds the top of the raditiator. The main issue is that the 32mm to the bottom of the radiator on the Coolant Outlet Block is pointing towards the inlet side and the 19mm on the Coolant Outlet Block is pointing towards the exhaust side. Guess what? These are 180’ the wrong way! This means i am going to have to get bends to point them in the right direction. Bit of a pain but an easy fix as was hoping to use all the original hoses. Next up was a few measurements. I had to measure up for injector blanks and a new prop shaft. Both of these are easy to get made. I plan on using David Mac in Coventry for the prop shaft and the injector blanks are easy to purchase off Ebay. Moving back to the front of the car I started measuring up for the front brake hoses. The original copper hoses had started to corrode, so thi time round i am going to fit braided hoses. A bit more expensive but should last longer and will look a bit trick. Doing a bit of research it suggests that the front brake hoses should be the same length going from left to right. This is to keep the same amount of fluid and therefore the same pressure in each hose. The plan is to run a single line from the master cylinder to underneath the radiator and then split equally to the left and right. Next was to work out the engine belt run. With the power steering and air conditioning pumps removed i needed route the belt so everything still drives. Replacing the power steering pump i use a tensioner from an older Ford Focus as the original tensioner that fits under the alternator now does not fit as the steering shaft runs in its place. Not having a tensioner in this position means that the belt coming off the main crank pulley fouls the crank sensor. The plan I am going with is to use a spare idle pulley that i have and fit this to the upper bolt hole for the original tensioner. The fixing bolt will need a spacer making but screwing it in and lining it up with the other pulleys gives me a clear route. This is what the route looks like. The belt will still have a tensioner in the system. The next job will be to measure up and buy a new belt
  19. I had the same issue when I ran my pinto. Small rubber bobbins make the world of difference and was easy to do
  20. The next task will be to remake the radiator brackets. The ones i made originally were out of 0.5mm aluminium and are weak and flex. So, i will be making new ones of these out of 1.5mm steel. This will be thin enough to bend but still strong enough to not flex. I will copy the ones i made before as they are a from measurements taken from GBS before they made them a feature of the chassis. The reason for directly copying them is that they place the radiator exactly in the nose cone. No point reinventing what works perfectly well! 27.1.2019 First job this week was to finish of the radiator brackets. I made up some CAD (Cardboard Added Design) templates. I took these to RapidMetals in Redditch, who cut and bent into the shape of the template and was all done the same day. I then cut out the reliefs for the suspension bolts and drilled the holes in exactly the same position as the originals and bolted them up. These are nice and rigid and with the radiator bolted on, the nose cone still fits. It also stops the radiator moving as the previous mounts vibrated which rubbed the inside of the nose cone. It was never enough to rub through, but this will not be an issue moving forward.
  21. 20-1-2019 This weekend has been getting the bulk of the fabrication finished. The gearbox mount went in. Again space was tight and getting access was not easy. Had to weld it in sections. Welding the bottom was the hardest as the weld wanted to `drip’ down, so ended up with some tall welds, that i had to flat down a bit. The plate is probably a bit too big but the extra support won't hurt and will give me enough play when finally fitting of the gearbox. Next up was the EGR transfer port cover. The exhaust side is covered by the exhaust flange, but the inlet side is just left open. Nothing is available to buy online, so the only option was to make one. I made a CAD ( Cardboard Aided Design) by using a piece of cardboard and gently tapping round the edge to cut the shape. The template was transferred to a piece of 3mm steel and cut out. I will tidy up the shape and paint but it will do the trick. The next item on the list was the steering shaft bearing mount. The original was made out of thin aluminium and riveted on. It did the trick, but I wanted something stronger and that offered better support to the bearing. I cut out the plate and hole sawed a 35mm hole. This was a bit slow going but went through eventually with a bit of patience. I then used some threaded bushes to space the bearing carrier to the plate and welded the plate to the original bracket. This beefed up the whole section and is very rigid but the steering is still as smooth as ever. The bearing is an old Robin Hood trick using a go kart wheel bearing. Full instructions can be found here: http://nw.rhocar.org/supporting_the_steering_shaft.htm
  22. 13.1.2019 Finished off the pedal box today. Gaz got the brace welded and back to me. Next step was to check fit and after a bit of adjustment to fit the chassis rails it was welded in. In theory this all sounds like a 5 minute job but had taken me the best part of 5 hours to do! I had to bolt the pedal box to the brace to ensure the holes all still line up and not warped during welding. Then it was trim and trial fit to the chassis rails which was in and out about 10 times taking a little off and try it. Adjust it a little with the universal adjusting tool (hammer) and trial fit again. Got there in the end and welded it up. Space is very tight so had to do it in small stitch welders. Not the prettiest but its in and the pedal box is now rock solid. Once it is cleaned up and painted it will look better, i am just pleased with how the pedals fit and that they have zero flex in them now. Next bit of welding was the propshaft tunnel bar. This needed replacing as the original was removed to allow the gearbox to fit. Again, very tight space and rubbish angles but got it welded in after getting into some very strange positions. Final bit of welding for today was to replace the engine diagonal bar. This was again removed as it was in the way of the alternator, so welded in a new bar to replace this at a more convenient location. A bit more space to work with but still had to get into some funny shapes. With the bar in this position I have enough space to get my hands in to the steering shaft and also gives enough clearance to get the manifold off. The second picture shows my weld on the left and the original chassis weld in black on the right. Not too bad for an ametuer. Next steps will be to weld in a bar half way down the footwell tunnel. This is not 100% needed as it never had one before, but it will give a little extra bracing. The main reason is that the footwell panel will run down the outside of the chassis rail from the end of the footwell to the new bar. It will then move to the inside up to the prop tunnel. This will give an extra 25mm foot space. It's not a lot but it all helps as I have size 10 feet. After this it will be to weld in the gearbox mount. This is what it looks like: The 2 big `green’ bolts fix into the gearbox and the large plate on the right is what will be welded to the chassis. This will be fitted to the bottom of the chassis rails and welded in a similar manner to the floor to the chassis and then welded from above to the chassis. This is how the original gearbox mount was done, so should be fine
  23. Another message from Richy confirms that the fuel pump is coming along nicely. He is doing an awesome job and it is looking very nice. 30-12-2018 - Missed the West Mids Christmas run out, as had to fix some fencing. The good news is that one the way home I popped into Machine Mart and picked up a new/ spare angle grinder. Only £30 but is a nice bit of kit. The motor head is much smaller than my current grinder so will help get into some of the tight spaces. Also, it comes with an adjustable guard and spare carbon brushes, which by pure luck, fit my old grinder. That means I have 2 working grinders ready to go. The next few days will be taken up with New Years celebrations but I will be back at it soon enough. Jan 2019! So the first week of the New Year and with a few quiet evenings I have set about finishing the engine mounts. They have both come out well and I tacked them up ready for Gaz to get them welded at work as my little mig is not nearly man enough for the job only just getting penetration on the 3mm bottom plate. The 10mm engine plate it didn't even get warm on the back side, but was enough to hold temporarily. This is the end result with just the tacks holding Dropped these off to Gaz and in less than 12 hours later got the following picture: I was well impressed! Made my amateur job look professional and decent. Hoping to get these back for the weekend so i can test fit them, but that then means I can move onto the gearbox mount. So, the engine mounts were hand delivery by Gaz with a few hours help. First up was to check the engine mounts fitted and sat the engine correct! Did I measure it all correctly? The answer is Yes. Fitted perfectly and trial fitted all the ancillaries and all sits nice. Bonnet clearance will give me about 5mm which is enough so on to the next item which was to check the steering shaft. Originally the clearance was not going to work as it was catching the bottom of the alternator, but with a little reduction of the collapsable steering shaft it cleared. Again only about 10mm but it cleared and rocking the engine didn't cause any contact. Next step was the gearbox mount. The original MX5 box has two M14 bolts that solid mounts to the PPF (Power Plant Frame). Using these and a plate that will then attach to a rubber mount this will then sit on a new gearbox mount plate. Access is limited underneath at present so will finish this off when i can roll the car forward to get is high up on some axle standards. Welding upside down will be fun. Last time I did that was about 20 years ago on a classic mini and ended up with a weld splatter land on the inside of my ear When they say welding sounds like bacon, they are right, it's the same sound as my ear burning, but in the panic I banged my head on the bottom of the mini, so hoping things go better this time around! Next job on the list was the floor mounted pedal box. The box is a Compbrake item, They are a British company and have a proven history including Guy Martin's World Fastest Van. The Kit i bought was this one: https://www.compbrake.com/product/universal-floor-mounted-hydraulic-pedal-box-kit-uprated-2-pedal-kit-b/ It had everything I needed and the support on the phone has been awesome. The box had 4 tabs that protruded from the sides what were designed to be used as mounting points but they stuck out a good 10mm each. This stopped the box sitting back in the footwell, so chopped them of. Even so the box will only go back so far and is about 60mm short of the very end of the footwell. This is mainly due to the master cylinder for the clutch and the fact the tunnel narrows more than the box width. I knew this was going to be an issue when i bought the box as when researching i discovered the bulk of kit car boxes are 240mm wide. They are designed to be bolted to the floor with 6 M6 bolts. I bolted them up with some 50x50x3mm square washers. Doing this placed the pedals nicely from the seating position but the biggest issue was the floor flex. The GBS floor flexes a lot! Even with the big washers the whole floor flexes along its whole length. This has always been the case and when you get in the car the floor would `pop’ on occasions. I guess this is because it is just a 2mm flat sheet welded to the bottom of the chassis. So, I thought about making a bigger plate to see if that takes out the flex. I made this plate, but it didn't take all the flex out. It is only a little but i didn't like the fact it had any, so, onto some more serious bracing. The plan is to create a new footwell end out of 3mm steel. This will weld to the chassis rails and match the back of the pedal box with cut outs to match the master cylinders. Is started of with some measurements and a CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) template. This was then transferred to a 3mm steel plate and this is the result so far. The next step will be to get the sides and bottom bent. I tried a test piece in the vice, but it was not accurate enough or tight enough radius. Need to find another solution, so might see what the local engineering firms are able to do. Well, after speaking to a local engineering firm, the option to bend will never work with the radius i need. If it is bent at the sharp angle I wanted and needed it is likely to crack or snap, so the only real option was to cut and weld. Now my little mig is at its limit on 3mm plate, so decided to make use of friends in useful places and tack it together ready for Gaz to get it welded at his work. This is what it looks like all tacked up with nice cuppa tea ready to celebrate an evening's work. Test fitting with just a few clamps took all the flex out that it previously had so once welded to the chassis rails and the current floor i am more than confident this will have the desired effect. The pedal box itself will still bolt in as originally designed, which will have 6 bolts into the floor with the 3mm plate underneath and then 6 bolts into the new brace. I also had a message from Richy this afternoon saying that the fuel pump was finished. As i have enough to be messing on with currently i will pick this up from him at the Christmas meal at the end of January, if I can wait that long.
  24. 28-29-12-2018 With the spare days between Christmas and New Year, I got on with a bit more work to make the engine and box fit. So, the first job was to find out why the gearbox would not select a gear. The gearbox was stuck in gear the input and output shafts seemed locked. First off I removed the neutral and reverse switches to see if this was causing the issue as after a bit of google research suggested this is a comment issue on mk2, so was an easy place to start. This made no difference! The next step was to remove the turret top and side spring loaded plungers to see if this was the issue. Again, this made no difference. At this stage, the only next step was the split the box. I removed the 6 bolts and removed the selecter section from the gearbox. Nothing seemed to be broken, which was good news, but did not answer what the problem was. I manually moved the gear selectors and all the gears engaged without issue. This meant the issue had to be with the selector mechanism, so I placed the box in neutral and bolted it all together. It all worked and all gears selected perfectly? No idea why but can only assume the selector rod had dislodged and was causing the issue. The box has been temporarily reassembled as it will need to come out again for cleaning and painting before the final fitment. Offering up the box and getting it to sit right has meant that another chassis brace has had to be moved. It has only been moved back around 100mm, but means I now have enough space to make a proper gearbox mount. Next was to bolt the box back to the engine so I can get the final fitting place finalised and start on the engine mounts. All in place with enough clearance for the water rail at the rear of the engine and with clearance for the clutch slave cylinder and starter motor. It’s all a bit tight but has enough space all the way round. With Gaz’s help we got the drivers side sorted. I used a range rover round rubber mount, mounted direct to the chassis plate. The engine plate is then connected with a 40mm box section cut at the correct angles and then welded to a 3mm plate that then sits on the rubber mount. This all sits nicely, but worn carbon brushes in my angle grinder stopped play and no further fettling could be done. I tack welded the box section to the 3mm base plate and once the grinder is fixed I can get the other end of the box section tacked to the engine plate.
  25. Broken and in need of repair!
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