megadodo

Thanks folks, I'll take my camera and notebook to Stoneleigh and see if I can solve the mystery.

If it's not gone already there should be a soft metal tag attached by one of the backplate bolts. The diff status is stamped on that, but they do tend to corrode or get knocked off. Then its down to counting input to output turns to work out the ratio.

Hi All,

I'm currently building a 2B plus with a 2.0L injection engine, now at the rolling chassis stage with engine, gearbox and prop fitted. Now I have started to test fit bits and bobs, is it my imagination or is there no way that the peadal box, steering shaft and exhaust all fit without it all banging together? Unless the steering front shaft support (the one with the "infamous" bearing) is cut, and the videos don't show that, the steering shaft to the steering rack wont clear the exhaust! Even if it is cut then the steering shaft angle would be very much pointing to the outside of the car. Plus how does the throttle pedal fit, no marks or holes and I'm not sure there enough room for. Will someone be at Stoneliegh with a standard unmodified 2B plus I could look at on Sunday? Many thanks in advance!

Hi chaps.

I have a problem with my 2lt cosworth engine and I cant way it up.

I was getting the car ready for mot and left it ticking over.

once it warmed up it started to smoke white smoke it was that bad that I thought I would have to cancel the test, and then it stopped.

So I took it for mot passed no problem.

I noticed while the emission test was going on it was starting to smoke again but luckly the test was over and the engine was turned of.

Drove it back from test centfre no probs.

So today we went for a ride out went to my mates about 4 miles away slight smoking.

We set of on a run drove about 50 miles stopping in traffic and lights no smoke at all car ran ok.

Left the car for an hour or so drove back to my mates had a cuppa drove home no smoke.

Stopped on the street whilst the wife moved other car of the drive smoked like a traction engine.

Dont under stand why it seems to be intermitant.

It has a brand new turbo techics turbo only done about 300 miles.

can any one help.

One other thing the engines in a kit car and the ECU is be hind the shelf were I had put my phone, whilst we were out the phone went off and the engine cut out , as soon as the wife answered the phone moved it away from the ECU engine ok again.

Paul.

White smoke is probably steam, suspect headgasket is going or anywhere water is near the inlet system. Is the intercooler water cooled or perhaps the turbo, I don't know the cossie set up? As for the cutting out it sounds like the ECU box is not shielded from RF interference. It the ECU is a metal box then grounding it to the chassis may help, if not then shielding in an earthed metal box will have the same effect. Best of luck with the steam, sounds expensive to me?

Malcolm

All - just want to run my logic past you before I part with cash.

 

My temp gauge has gone loopy recently. Same pattern every time - OK on start up, OK to engine warm up, then goes off the scale a few minutes after full temp reached.

 

I know the actual coolant temp is OK and not fluctuating as I've plugged the laptop in and data logged the coolant temp from the ECU and all is well.

 

If I remove the sender wire and earth it the gauge goes off the scale, and when not earthed gauge remains at zero which tells me the gauge is working and no wiring faults. Interestingly, when you disconnect and reconnect the sender wire when the gauge is playing up it often works for a few seconds then 'fails' again.

 

So - I'm guessing a faulty sender that's earthing at full working temperature? Its only a couple of years old and matched to the gauges but I can't see it being anything else unless anyone could advise otherwise?

 

I know its only £11 for a new one from Greengauges but every penny counts at the moment.

 

Cheers

Andy

 

Sounds like the engine earth is in need of attention. Check both ends are clean and secure. A quick check is often to use 1 jump lead from some clean part of the engine block to the battery negative. If that smooths out the gauge then its your engine earth. Always earth the engine to the chassis and not the battery.

I hope that helps

Malcolm

The pressure relief valve will cause problems if it fails to open at all (too high fuel pressure) and then the engine will flood, as well as if it opens too early (not enough fuel pressure) and then no or not enough fuel will get past the injectors. The way to test them is to disconnect the fuel return to the tank and supply 12 volts to the pump (disconnect it from the cars electrical system), you should be able to fill a litre jug with fuel from the return pipe in a couple of minutes. There should be a slight pause as the fuel system gets up to pressure, then the valve will open and allow fuel to flow through the return feed. Release any residual pressure from the input line before doing this or you wont get the pause as the sytem comes up to pressure. Your symptom suggests the valve isn't opening but I'm NOT a mechanic. As always swapping the valve for a known working one is the ultimate test.

Best of Luck

I have one off my old noisy diff that I swapped out.

The thread is good but the head is pretty mangled.

If you're desperate, you could weld a stud onto the end of it and use a spanner on that.

Send me a PM if you want it and I can pop it in the post to you.

Ford no longer sell the diff plug, how daft is that?

is it discs on the the axle

 

if it is and not wanted by dan i will take it off your hands..

 

cheers gavin

No, its drums I'm afraid!

Hi All,

 

I need a right hand Sierra Driveshaft (standard - not XR4x4 lobro joint type), preferably with hub/bearing assembly still attached, as mine has just gone!

 

Beer tokens waiting..........

 

Finger crossed

 

Dan

 

edit: p.s., just noticed the type, that was supposed to read Stoneleigh in the title!!

I have a whole rear axle off a 2.0i sapphire, its taking up space so its yours for £20 is you want it ?

Most electrical problems are due to bad earthing and the symptom suggests this as well. check the earthing point for the faulty side. Best of luck

i have twin airhorns fitted to mine now and that had to go through a relay. My brother is a sparky and he said it has to be done that way so i listened and attempted to nod at the right points while he was explaining why and as you have probally quessed, i have no idea why it has to. im sure he will be on shortly and will probally explain.

It's to do with the current draw. The relay can switch high currents reliably and through as short a route as possible without having too big a voltage drop. You could use the horn push on the steering wheel but its not good at shifting high currents as the contact area is unreliable throughthe sliding contact as the steering wheel has to the inconvenient thing of turning the front wheels left and right. It also means that smaller diameter wires can be used at the switches. Imagine all your switches being wired with fat wiring, just look at the wires at the ignition switch! Hope that helps?

Thanks to one and all, certainly much clearer in my head now! I am almost ready to scrap the donor car (all bits for the 2b removed, just some potentialy saleble items to come off now) so what do I do about the V5 etc. Do I register it as scrap, if so how do I keep proof of the age related stuff etc. Will a scrappy take it away without signing it over to him?

Thanks Nigel, that makes sense I suppose. While on the subject of VIN numbers what do I do? I have the donor car's documents and VIN plate but I guess I can't just rivet it to the chassis and that I have to make 1 up and stamp it somewhere?

Hi Folks,

My first post! Probably not my last either! I was obviously under a mishaprehension that once you had passed your SVA you could get the car registered and reading through the SVA posts I see there is a BUI. My questions are as follows, is this relatively new, what does it entail and what's the point of an SVA test if the car then needs a BUI, or am I missing something.