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flameredturbo

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Posts posted by flameredturbo

  1. Serious advice from an old fart................... put the money into a bigger house now whilst property prices are at a low, get your new toy later.....................

     

    Boring advice I know but play the long game.

     

    £6500.00 would be a good price for a superb car though.

     

    If we could move now we would but with a wedding to plan and have it's not possible, we plan to cash in on the London boom and move away a bit.

  2. So in brief I've come into a bit of money that in 18-24 months I will be using towards buying a bigger home. The cash is currently sitting in prem bonds.

    I've wanted an s2000 ever since I had an Fn2 a few years back and nows my chance, my plan would be buy one, enjoy it for the 18-24 months and sell and return the cash to the house pot (a bit less I know)

     

    So I guess here's where I'm after advice, maybe from guys in the trade, what should I be looking to pay for the car in the picture. It's 2003 and has only done 51k

    The asking price is £7395, £6500 is what I'm aiming to pay. What do you think?

     

    post-8870-0-53374200-1395856396_thumb.jpg

  3. Hi CMA

     

    do you think flameredturbo may have a fuel air ratio issue?

     

    I think I had a dodgy spark lead and very unbalanced TB's issue, it still won't idle but I've not really been trying with any of that lately, wanted to get everything else nice and sorted first.

    New starter fitted, new leads and new fuel reg and a bit of a tidy up.

     

    I tackled the clutch adjustment today as best as I could with a non running car. So at first with the clutch pedal fully pressed the car would jolt forward off the starter, kept testing after adjusting the clutch cable to the point where it was as far as it could go. But now the clutch doesn't seem to grab until the pedal is fully released. I know it just needs a bit of a fiddle. Does a small turn on the adjustment nut make a big difference to required pedal travel??

    post-8870-0-85163500-1395163808_thumb.jpg

  4. On second looking a replumb is the only sensible option as the engine would need lifting out for me to be able to remove the thermo housing!

    The outlet on the right that I have plumbed off at the moment looks smaller?

  5. That pipe is closed off by the stat when the engine gets up to temperature. It will not read true engine temp above about 85C. You could alter the take-off for the warmup bypass to the other side of the standard housing which is used for the heater flow and is always open. However you run a slight risk of reduced rad flow. I would be prepared to chance it and if it runs hot as a result to put some sort of restrictor in it.

    The temp sender could go in the yellow lines and read OK in the altered pic below.

     

    Nigel

    Brilliant, I had a feeling that might be the case when I looked at the diagram again. Slight re plumb or off with the housing and just drill it. All much of a muchness.

  6. What is the wall thickness of the pipe, be careful there may not be enough metal to take a good thread that will seal O.K

    Sorry I shouldn't have said tap, I was thinking of using johns welding skills ones again and welding a nut on to the pipe and simply screwing it into that.

  7. Further to this after speaking to omex today, they do a screw in sensor that will fit the plug on my loom, I'm thinking I can tap it into the coolant pipe, not the thicker one that runs from the rad but into the thinner one from the pump upto thermostat housing. Correct?

    Below is the set up I'm using.

    post-8870-0-28740400-1395142024_thumb.jpg

  8. After discovering my loom wasn't built to use the standard zetec temp sensor even though the map sold with it on the omex was. I've had to get a sensor that pushes into a 13mm hole that you drill into the thermostat housing. Anyone have the same sensor? It's an omex item. I'm not sure I'm going to trust it.

  9. Was that the mounting lugs broken off?

    Even if it was cheap it shouldnt have failed there.

    The breaks look clean, ie new, & not manufacturing faults.

    I would double check that the starter/ring gear/flywheel are all compatible before fitting a new starter,

    as you may just break the new one....

    Sorry to be negative, just advising caution...

     

    I agree totally, I'm using a 1.8 zetec retroford fly, this was the correct starter and the new one which spins the engine up beautifully is the same fitment.

    It's unconfirmed but possible internal fault with the old starter.

     

    I've broken it down in my head a 100 times, the engine turned on a socket set perfectly and it's run without issue so the fault could have only been with the starter. I thought maybe the clutch had come loose from the flywheel and that was hitting the bellhousing and causing the abrupt clunk and stop but then if that was the case the engine wouldn't have run or turned freely by hand.

  10. Sounds like you have the coil pack wired up wrong and the plugs are firing in the wrong order. Or the timing is a mile out. Sounds like the plug is firing when one of the pistons is on the compression stroke. Sounds hurrendous, and will

    Cause smoke from the throttle body.

    I'll double check pretty sure both are correct. It's run and idled though and nothing has changed since.

  11. Had the battery on charge over night as I wanted to rule out one possible cause for what I believe to be a dud starter, put it in and it turned fine and sprung the engine into life nicely which then stalled straight away (seperate issue)

    Second try, clunk/bang

    Third try the same and smoke/bang from TB on cylinder two..... Just unburned fuel getting burned and having nowhere to go?

    Engine turns perfectly with a wrench still.

    Ideas?

  12. It was a light clunk, with vibration on revving the car, very clunky when starting. I would whip the starter out and check the ring gear on the flywheel, you are sure it's the starter?

    We turned the engine and the flywheel was ok, very small metal shards that must have come from the starter sitting in the bottom of the bell housing.. I can't really think what else it could be. As I said it did it a couple of time a week or so ago and then ran pretty ok this weekend.

  13. I had a new zetec stater start clunking, I bought it off eBay. Go out and shake the starter if it moves that's your problem, I found the tie rods that hold the stator casing to the flange that bolts up against the engine had vibrated loose. And the starter was close to having the stator (outer body of the starter) fall off! I whipped the starter off and took each bolt out in turn loctite thread locked the bolt and done it up again, should be 3 long bolts holding the casing together.

    We did take it apart and tighten it and it still did it, Was it as I describe? A full on whack with a hammer?

  14. I've got clearance, I'm pretty sure it's not knocking the chassis, it's on heavy duty mounts now and doesn't move much at all. The only lose bolts I'm worried about are flywheel ones, but I checked and double checked so it can't be that, plus then it ran it would have shaken it's self out the garage if loose.

    The clunk is like your whacking the block or bellhousing with a hammer! Horrible sounds lost me a couple of hours sleep last night for sure!

     

  15. Hi, as a few of you will know I had a bit of trouble with my starter a couple of weeks back problems seem to have re surfaced.

    Yesterday me and John (mostly john) got the engine running and ticking over but later on in the day when starting there was a really loud clunking from we think the starter area, I'm fairly sure it's from that area and can only be starter/flywheel related. It did do it a couple of times when I was starting and stoping it on the phone to omex over a week ago and it's since run with no problems so can't be internal.

    It did seem louder this time though, we turned the engine and all teeth are on the fly, any ideas?

    Also, the main purpose of my post, what quality starters are you guys using on tour zetec to type 9's and where did you get them? Mine was a £50 eBay job and I fear a case of buy cheap buy twice!

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