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Bottom Hose


Guest Phil_h

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Guest Phil_h

Hi Guys,

 

I'm fitting the radiator (the big robin hood supplied one) to my 2B/4 and I'm having a little trouble with the bottom hose. The rest of it was fine mounting the radiator, the central heating pipe etc but I can't seam to get the bend in the flexi pipe (RH supplied) without a kink if the metal pipe (RH supplied) doesn't fould the steering shaft. Also as the bottom hose comes out the it been pulled towards the fan belt.

 

Now I may just have been having one of them nights and it will all be fine tonight but if any one has any hints tips or advice - even better a photo of the area on your car would be great

 

Thanks in Advance

 

Phil

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Phil

 

Fair play to you for persevering with that ironing board of a radiator. I ditched mine from the 2B4 kit and went for the Coolman rad. However it did occur to me that the supplied flexy hoses were very short and not very flexible! You'd probably do yourself a favour by buying a better quality, slightly longer flexy.

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We have the 2B/4 radiator plumbed in fine. But we redesigned the Robin Hood supplied piping system. We don't have any flex hose. Instead we went to the local motor factors and rumaged through their water pipe stock to find the bends we needed.

 

I found a really nice 90 degree bend we have going to the bottom of the radiator. This is joined to a 30 degree ish bend. This then attaches to the long metal water pipe with the 90degree (ish) bend in. We have connected it to the straight end rather than the 90 degree end which I think means ours is backwards. The 90 degree end of the metal pipe then fits to the lower outlet on the pinto with the RH supplied short piece of rubber water pipe.

 

We put a piece of angle across the front of the chassis to mount the sierra bonet catch as suggested by RH. I found that by routing the bottom water pipe over this bit on angle it pulled the rubber 90 degree water pipe attached to the bottom of the radiator back away from the nose cone nicely.

 

You will have to tilt your head:

pict0534.sized.jpg

 

This is about 3 hours before I put the bit of angle in:

hc10.sized.jpg

 

This is when we were working out the water system:

oct01.sized.jpg

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Hi, I've used a new Capri radiator (£50ish from a local Rad and aircon place). Modified the Sierra top hose, and used a flexi bottom hose for a Cortina (Halfords supplied).

The only mods you need to do to this Rad is to shorten the flanges at either side a little.

Hope this helps,

 

Nicko :)

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Guest Phil_h

Thanks for all the great responses guys. I think I'll be getting some more hoses and reversing the RH supplied pipe.

 

My budget doesn't allow for a new radator but it will definately on the list of things to do post SVA not for any great technical reason but because the RH one is so bloody awful to look at :-)

 

Thanks again

 

Phil

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Its the RH supplied one. Isn't it awful!

 

I won't be using one the second time around.

 

I am using a pressure system rather than an expansion tank. The header tank and pressure cap are from a Rover 416.

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The kit came with one track control arm gator, I think it was supposed to be used for the fuel filler. We bought a second one, cut each one in half and then split them to get them on. A few black cable ties later they don't look bad.

 

Actually there was a bit more cutting, one end of each gator originally went onto the steering rack, this was about 38mm so it was OK but the other end went onto the 10mm ish track rod. We just cut this end of each gator slightly further up where its diameter was about 38mm.

 

If you are preparing a 2B/4 for SVA you need to cover the outer edge of the washer that goes under the bearing at the top of the front suspension. We had snap on trim round the top plate the headlight bolts to but the tester could still find the edge of the washer with his mushroom. The washer does move a bit as the spring twists with the steering so he could only get it on one side. I used silicon to glue some small edge trim on the washer and then held it on with a cable tie round the circumference of the washer.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Any chance of a photo or two of your suspension set up for SVA as described?

Well its taken me a while but here they are:

 

sva1.jpg

 

The arrowed washer needs its edge covering. Our coverings fell off after about 2 weeks.

 

sva2.jpg

 

A: In an effort to make sure the brake hoses were long enough we may have gone slightly too long. Since the hoses exit the caliper going upwards they can easily hit the wing brackets when the rear of the wheel is turned toward the body. We have put a piece of petrol hose over the brake hose and tied it in place to control the contact between the brake hose and the wing bracket.

B: We used pipe lagging here.

C: We used sheet foam to cover the track control arm. This was covered in gaffer tape. The SVA inspector made us put cable ties on it so it would stay in place. :wacko:

D: We had some self adhesive D section rubber we stuck on this edge. It fell off quickly.

E: The little right angle brackets that locate the wing bracket need the front and rear edges covering the other edges count as under the car. Well our examiner and his inspector thought so. The curved edge of the wing bracket also needs some trim.

F: The adjusting nuts on the mini McPhersons strut needs to be covered. We used more self adhesive rubber D section. This time with a cable tie through the middle. That probably why it hasn;t fallen off yet.

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