Heat Protection

[Snapperpaul]

Getting close to putting engine and gearbox in followed by trim and carpets, so now is the time to fit the heat protection but what do i fit.

I want to cover the inside of the gearbox tunnel to about the gearstick hole, and the front of the footwells, outside, and, floor, end and sides of the footwell inside.

I have had a good look in B&Q but its either foil coated bubble wrap, polystyreen ( any thickness) or foil sided stuff for behind your household radiators.

I thought about expanded foam builing insulation but can only find it 3 inches thick.

Any ideas?

[NeilD]

I thought about expanded foam builing insulation but can only find it 3 inches thick

 

I used 'Kingspan' building insulation 35mm thick foam with foil both sides - should be available from most builders merchants. Normally it is used inside a cavity wall.

[RedTrev]

Hi. I bought the roof insulation board (expanded foam & foil sided) from B+Q. It is approx 1.5 inches thick and came in a 8'x4' sheet for about £16.

 

Trev

[Big Jim]

Heat protection stuck to the engine bay, does very little for cabin comfort. The main thing is to cover all the gaps, which is a problem with the 2B and superspec, but has been done.

You can stick as much stuff as you want to the panels, but the heat will come through from the engine bay like a hot-air gun if there's any sort of gap.

 

this is a photo of Kev O'Rielly's car (which is for sale I believe) see what he's done over the cockpit area.

[Guest art b]

Hi. I bought the roof insulation board (expanded foam & foil sided) from B+Q. It is approx 1.5 inches thick and came in a 8'x4' sheet for about £16.

 

Trev

 

 

yep i pretty much agree wiff jim mine is like a hot air gun,

ive got some ali sheets to close of the space above the bulkhead and add some more vents in the side of the bonnet

[Guest elwe]

Closing the gaps off is important but insulation on the tunnel sides is too.

 

I was in France last week. The tunnel sides were nice an cool but the screw heads holding the tunnel top on were hot enough to burn. You get a lot of hot air going down the tunnel which heats up the pannels and the chassis tubes. I was protected from the pannels by the insultation but the screws go into the chassis tubes and so were heating up by conduction.

[Snapperpaul]

Hi. I bought the roof insulation board (expanded foam & foil sided) from B+Q. It is approx 1.5 inches thick and came in a 8'x4' sheet for about £16.

 

Trev

 

Thats the stuff i have been looking for, will try some of the other suppliers.

 

Jim i have a series 3 so luckilly not as many holes to fill, a couple of curved ones round the scuttle and those ones under the box sections. I thought about using the expanding foam for that job.

 

The closer i get to SVA the more things i find that need doing before the final engine fit and trim.

[niduncan]

I used Aluminised Glass Cloth to line the engine bay. Not sure that it has much affect as my feet roasted today coming home from work.

 

[Guest MrT]

I insulated the exhust to the exit with Heat wrap and put heat reflective heat shield on the bulk head, made it much better, but blocking the holes is key plus good bonnet ventilation around the manifold

 

Paul

[Snapperpaul]

I have wrapped the exhaust manifold with the remnants from a 4-2-1 that came with the engine, not vey eligant but should help. Now looking for some heat protection for the engine bay.

Has anyone lined the inside? if so what with?

[Guest MrT]

I have wrapped the exhaust manifold with the remnants from a 4-2-1 that came with the engine, not vey eligant but should help. Now looking for some heat protection for the engine bay.

Has anyone lined the inside? if so what with?

 

 

I purchased the heatsheild from RPM motorsport off Ebay about £25 I think

 

Paul

[Guest elwe]

I used Screwfix silvered bubblewrap loft insulation. Works well, cheap and thin.