Jump to content

Oil Cooler Advice


TheDog
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hiya all, it's a shame the weather is getting worse now!

 

My engine (pinto) is running fairly hot, between 100 - 110, and sometimes even 120. I have now heard a few times (from a mechanic and various websites) that it shouldn't really be running at much over 100 - so I think I need an oil cooler. I do actually already have a sandwich plate, between the engine and oil filter, but it is just connected to iteslf. The fittings are just push on, with jubilee hose clips.

 

So ideally i need a cooler - that has the same style fittings (most I have seen are scre fit) - any advice on where i can look - i've been looking on Ebay so far.

 

Secondly, once i get it, where should i put it. Behind the water radiator, right next to the fan? low down to get some air flow from under the car?

 

Any ideas?

 

Many thanks

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the problem is overheating then deal with that first. 100 is hot for a pinto let alone 110. They like to run cooler than modern engines.

Is the gauge correct. Sender matched to gauge. Gauge reading correctly.

Then check through the cooling system, stat, pipes in good nick and not part blocked, pipes correctly routed. What rad are you using, is in good nick.

Air flow clear with no obstructions and is the rad cowled in to force air through it. Can the air get out again.

Then basic engine checks like not running weak and timing not retarded.

I doubt that a pinto needs an oil cooler. If you fit one it should have a stat and will add only a small cooling effect.

 

Nigel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's unusual to have push fit connectors on the sandwich plate are you not sure you have the tails from hoses still fitted to it? As for a cooler there are lots on eBay but all will have screw fittings usually 1/2" BSP but that is no problem as you will have to have the hoses made up anyway. As for position, in front of the rad (low down) would be my choice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will stress again the sender must match the gauge. A sierra sender will give the wrong reading on escort instruments and on after market gauges. You can test the sender in very hot water with a thermometer in as reference. May have to add an earth wire. Substitute a known good gauge. Even try the thermometer in the rad if temp is below boiling and stat is open. Take care.

 

Nigel

 

If you have after market gauges get a new sender from the manufacturer. If sierra etc gauges visit Fords and match it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Nigel says the sender must be matched to the gauge not to the engine and here is where the trouble starts ford does not know which sender went with which gauge. - Even when in the sierra with original engine and gauges the only way was to check the color and buy one the same - So now it is in the Hood with probably a different engine and maybe not even the instruments out of the donor the chances of finding the correct one (I think there are 8) is pretty remote.

BTW how do you get the readings of 110 etc. if it is from the gauge then it is not a sierra gauge as they just had a blue, white with NORM written down it and a red sectors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help so far. It is a VDO gauge (so after market). I have acutally recently swapped the engine over, and used the old sender with the new gauge! So what you guys say explains alot! I did this because the old sender (although looked as though it should), didn't quite fit the new engine.

 

I have just carried out some tests, and it appears the new sender is reading approx 20 degrees higher than the old sender - and the old engine used to run at around 80-85, and the new engine is running at around 100-110 - so this ties up. When the new guage reads 120 (which it does sometimes after a B road burn and then don't cool then engine slowly before turning it off), it is really only 100!! :-)

 

However, what i haven't done, as i don't have a thermomoter, is done the test comparing the 'actual' temperature. However, i'm inclined to believe the old sender, as it is made by VDU (written on), and says 120 C on it - and the gauge goes up to 120.. and, obvioulsy, it was the origional sender.

 

As the old sender doesn't fit the new engine, is it worth getting a new one - that reads right - or will this be alot of hassle?

 

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I fitted VDO gauges the VDO sender was a tight fit in the head. Cleaned out the hole and cut a couple of grooves in an old sender and used it as a tap, in and out a few times toclean the thread. New sender was still a tight fit with some goo on to help it seal but it worked OK.

 

Nigel

 

VDO can supply a new sender to fit the pinto if you specify the thread or engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I fitted VDO gauges the VDO sender was a tight fit in the head. Cleaned out the hole and cut a couple of grooves in an old sender and used it as a tap, in and out a few times toclean the thread. New sender was still a tight fit with some goo on to help it seal but it worked OK.

 

Nigel

 

VDO can supply a new sender to fit the pinto if you specify the thread or engine.

 

Thanks for that - i thought it should fit - but it keeps getting stuck! I'll have another go. The thread is the same (well, it looks the same), so i'll have another go.

 

Thanks

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you really want a cooler fitted to the pinto i recently added one to my 2.1

 

the sandwitch plate has a built in stat (opens at i think 80*)

sandwitch plate seal to block

hoses - you will need proper oil hose (reinforced burtons)

the hose can be fitted using jubillee clips (use 2 very good ones on each connection)

i positioned the cooler in front of the rad to the bottom low as i can go

 

overall it did help a little bit - but not hugely... does if you thrash the living day lights out of it!!

 

temperature is always a problem on a 7 type car - compared to a normal tin top which has a huge frontal area to scoop air 7's only have say a 1ft square opening?? pretty small.. that doesnt help either..

 

you can add ally scoops to the radiator sides to funnel ALL air to the rad instead of the air bypassing by the easiest route around the rad.

 

i would also check you ignition timing is correct and mixture isnt weak

 

and of course good old air locks - pinto's are renown for air locks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I might add some scoops to the side of the radiator to ensure the air does flow in the right places. Although the new engine doesn't run at the temps i first thought, it does still run a bit hotter than the old one. I did have it professionally tuned a few weeks ago though, so hoping that it isn't runnnig too weak (the tuner did coment that it had previously been doing this, so should now be fixed!).

 

Is it also worth adding bonnet or side scoops, perhaps directed towards the exhaust mainfold, to take the heat away from the maifold quickly?

 

Thanks

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi

 

As someone who has experienced severe overheating problems with my 2L pinto engine I took the advice given by some of the guys and fitted a Coolman Rad plus Nissan thermostat (which runs cooler than the Sierra one) and the difference has been like night and day

 

So much so that to date I have not even fitted the electric cooling fan I bought on ebay yet as the original viscous fan seems to be coping OK

 

Temperature guage used to go off the end of the guage after approx 20 miles, now sits at approx a quarter of the way up (rising towards half in heavy traffic )

 

 

Robert B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it also worth adding bonnet or side scoops, perhaps directed towards the exhaust mainfold, to take the heat away from the maifold quickly?

 

Thanks

Chris

I don’t know much about the westy but if it is like the hood and I suspect it is rather than trying to scoop air in and over the exhaust it is far better to get air out from under the bonnet this not only helps keep things cooler under the bonnet but allows air to flow more easier through the radiator due to reliving the pressure in the engine bay THIS is the type of vent I mean they can also be got in plastic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

from my experiece with oil coolers here are a few simple rules

 

1- always fit a sndwich plate with a stat in it as undercooling oil will do as much or more damage to your engine

 

2- position the oil cooler at the side of the rad or below the rad -- NEVER infront of the rad

 

3- never use a second hand cooler as you dont know what oil and debris has gone through it

 

4- ALWAYS use a GENUINE Ford oil filter--- Never fit a cheap pattern part (genuine ones less than a fiver)

 

Hope that helps

 

Darren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...