3a Front Suspension

[Guest Paul Kirby]

My 3A front coil over has become unscrewed from the top wishbone. GBSC no longer stock/make this part. Any suggestions?

[Snapperpaul]

When you say unscrewed, do you mean that the top bolt through the shocker and the top wishbone has simply loosened. If so remove the nut and bolt and put a new one in.

If it something more serious to do with the wishbone then strip it and get it welded up.

It's a simple tubular wishbone with a pivot, a threaded insert for the top ball joint at one end and the shock mounting at the other, whilst it is a bit of a pain to have to strip it down, once apart it would be easy to repair or even get another made up.

[Big Jim]

I think that I know what's happened here, it's not unscrewed from the wishbone, but the eyelet has unscrewed from the top of the shocker rod on the old "Zimmerframe" shockers, it's only held by about 2½ threads.

I've seen it happen many times.

The cure is to replace them with decent shocks immediately, the only good place for zimmerframe shocks is in the bin.

Remove the shocks, take off the springs, and measure the open & closed lengths, then get some replacements.

 

Whilst you're doing this, you need to secure the centre bolt that the wishbones pivot on to stop it turning in the chassis, also you need to drill and fit grease nipples to the top wishbone main pivot tube, so they can be kept lubricated.

[Guest Paul Kirby]

I think that I know what's happened here, it's not unscrewed from the wishbone, but the eyelet has unscrewed from the top of the shocker rod on the old "Zimmerframe" shockers, it's only held by about 2½ threads.

I've seen it happen many times.

The cure is to replace them with decent shocks immediately, the only good place for zimmerframe shocks is in the bin.

Remove the shocks, take off the springs, and measure the open & closed lengths, then get some replacements.

 

Whilst you're doing this, you need to secure the centre bolt that the wishbones pivot on to stop it turning in the chassis, also you need to drill and fit grease nipples to the top wishbone main pivot tube, so they can be kept lubricated.

 

Thanks to Snapperpaul and Big Jim for the replies. Looking at it again, I believe the problem is indeed that the eyelet has become unscrewed from the shocker rod. Also thanks for the tip on greasing the pivot bolt etc.

 

Any suggestions as to a reliable source for the replacement coil overs?

Edited March 24, 2007 by axle man

[Big Jim]

Thanks to Snapperpaul and Big Jim for the replies. Looking at it again, I believe the problem is indeed that the eyelet has become unscrewed from the shocker rod. Also thanks for the tip on greasing the pivot bolt etc.

 

Any suggestions as to a reliable source for the replacement coil overs?

 

Bugger! just typed out a long reply, then it dissapeared .....................

 

OK, Start again.

 

Remove a shocker, measure open & closed lengths (mounting bolt centres) spring dia (approx 1 + 7/8") and spring length (removed, should be 9")

Contact various enporiums that sell such items with the details then take your pick.

 

I had similar happen to me, my front shocker exploded whilst on a run, I finished up taking one to DEMON THEIVES saying, "find me replacements that are good, but I don't want to spend a morgage on."

 

I finished up with SPAX units, fully adjustable damping, used the same springs (but my car has had a modification to the geometry of the top wishbone, if yours is standard, you really need weaker springs, around 130 - 140lbs)

You will find that with better shockers, you'll need to do some "adjustment" to the mountings, the SPAX units were wider on the eylets, and needed slightly larger bolts. I'll bet ever other type will be similar.

 

I've had my SPAX units on now for some 8 years, and have no complaints.

 

I would also go the whole hog, and if it's got zimmerframe units on the rear as well, change them also.

 

The SPAX units that I got for the rears, needed 11" springs as opposed to the 9" long ones on the old units, I also went down in poundage to 170lbs instead of the RH "standard" 180lbs. It made the ride better.

 

When you fit any better shockers, due to the light weight of a Robin Hood, you need to adjust the damping as light as possible, then up 1 click, try that setting to get the best ride, and maybe adjust from there. (that's what mine are at)

 

Piccy of grease nipple.

[Guest Paul Kirby]

 

Once again a big thank you for your help. With this amount of detail I should be able to source a pair of shocks etc.

 

I should be at Stoneleigh this year so I'll give you a shout if you are there.

 

Cheers

Paul