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Mini Spots Trickery


Andi

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Guest FIRSTBUILD

Andi, you will need a relay otherwise you will burn out whatever type of switch you are going to use.

 

 

why not feed the relay from the side lights ?

 

i cant see that you will drive the car with no other lights on ?

 

if they are spots they will need to go out when you dip or the mot man will have you - I think

 

 

Steve

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Andi, you will need a relay otherwise you will burn out whatever type of switch you are going to use.

 

 

why not feed the relay from the side lights ?

 

i cant see that you will drive the car with no other lights on ?

 

if they are spots they will need to go out when you dip or the mot man will have you - I think

 

 

Steve

 

Sorry to contradict but 35W - 12 Volts = 3 Amps So you only need a switch that is rated at No spots X 3 Amps + a fuse in the supply the same.

 

You certainly cant use the side light feed thats normally very lightly fused

 

I would run a new feed from the Ignition feed you won't want the spots on when the engine is not running. Also remember you need to use cable rated at the right current as well.

 

You could use the purple feed for the head lights that would be rated OK.

 

 

To make sure that they go off when you dip the main beams a relay is one answer but so is a diode wired OR configuration which avoids the relay and the inherent problems of a separate fused supply for the relay and the lights.

 

Can't draw a circuit here but sent me an email and will sketch an couple of solutions and attach scans for you.

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Guest FIRSTBUILD
Sorry to contradict but 35W - 12 Volts = 3 Amps So you only need a switch that is rated at No spots X 3 Amps + a fuse in the supply the same.

 

You certainly cant use the side light feed thats normally very lightly fused

 

I would run a new feed from the Ignition feed you won't want the spots on when the engine is not running. Also remember you need to use cable rated at the right current as well.

 

You could use the purple feed for the head lights that would be rated OK.

 

 

To make sure that they go off when you dip the main beams a relay is one answer but so is a diode wired OR configuration which avoids the relay and the inherent problems of a separate fused supply for the relay and the lights.

 

Can't draw a circuit here but sent me an email and will sketch an couple of solutions and attach scans for you.

 

 

why over work the switch ?

 

pemanant fused live to the relay

 

feed wire from the side light circuit to the switch then to the relay - relay to spots

 

the side light circuit would only have to switch the relay therefore lessthan .5amp

 

job done - out cruisin all blinged up lol

 

Steve

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Guest chris brown
why over work the switch ?

 

pemanant fused live to the relay

 

feed wire from the side light circuit to the switch then to the relay - relay to spots

 

the side light circuit would only have to switch the relay therefore lessthan .5amp

 

job done - out cruisin all blinged up lol

 

Steve

Agree it is bad practice to run any lights direct to a switch. Relays should be used in all circuits that are drawing more than a couple of amps IMHO regardless of what switch you are using.

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Agree it is bad practice to run any lights direct to a switch. Relays should be used in all circuits that are drawing more than a couple of amps IMHO regardless of what switch you are using.

 

If you want your lights to be BRILLIANT rather than glow a relay is a must to reduce the volt-drop caused by long cable runs in thin wire & high resistance switch contacts, make the wiring distance between battery & lamps as short as possible using 4mm wire.

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If you want your lights to be BRILLIANT rather than glow a relay is a must to reduce the volt-drop caused by long cable runs in thin wire & high resistance switch contacts, make the wiring distance between battery & lamps as short as possible using 4mm wire.

 

Are you saying have a relay nearer to the lights as oposed to nearer the battery?

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