Sva Fail

[Guest MacMustang]

Hey guys,

 

Took the 2B down for an SVA in Taunton today and failed on the following points:

 

1. Require documentary evidence for lower seat belt mountings
   
2. Rear fog lamp fitted too low (230mm)
   
3. Rear fog lap tell tales not working
   
4. Hazard tell tale not working
   
5. No padded boss features fitted to steering wheel
   
6. Track rod end locknuts contactable (not to radius criteria)
   
7. Front suspension box section not to radius criteria
   
8. Front stub axle brackets not to radius criteria
   
9. Front coilspring locknuts not to radius criteria
   
10. Silencer bracket not to radius criteria
    
11. Spare wheel dish not to radius criteria
    
12. Locktabs on steering column shaft not peened over
    
13. Locknuts required on both track rod ends
    
14. Self adhesive pads retaining exterior wiring under rear of car loose
    
15. No reserve travel on parking brake in fully applied position
    
16. Rear axle metal brake pipes chafing on radius arm clips
    
17. Calculated weights exceed declared weights
    

 

Whilst a long list I was quite happy that there wasn't any thing too major.

 

I'm going to have to find some photos of the seat belt mountings as they're boxed in.

 

The hazard and fog tell tales should be ok, thought the rear fog lamp was being a bit picky.

 

Unfortunately I borrowed the cover for the Moutney steering wheel but it wasn't sufficient Will have to take the Sierra steering wheel down next time.

 

Didn't realise the missing lock nuts would be a fail as they're not on the original are they?

 

The box section etc is easy enough to cover up with the edging rubber... really should have done it before!

 

Locktabs were forgotten about when I rebuilt the steering column... doh!

 

The calculated weights was a little annoying. All I have to do is redeclare them next time... that will teach me to get them off the web!

 

The handbrake will be tricky.. Suppose I'll have to find some way of removing the non-existent slack in the system...

 

Got a little worried when the offside wheel started squeaking but it turned out to be a cold brake disc/pad.

 

Still got massive problems with the engine though. Just about got it running well enough to do the 160 mile drive but it has no power at speed... struggeld getting to 60. The emissions test might give a clue to the problem, he said it's the lowest readings he's seen on an engine that old and was surprised that the car was running at all... running a little lean me thinks? Shame it's an EFI I'm suspecting a fuel delivery problem or an air leak somewhere. Anyone have the means to test fuel pressure? I've contemplated modding the AFM to force more fuel in or fitting another fuel reg on the return line? Would really like to get to the bottom of this one. Took it to 2 garages but they wouldn't touch it as they said it would cost more than buying a new carb based engine... bit lost

[Guest chris brown]

Hey guys,

 

Took the 2B down for an SVA in Taunton today and failed on the following points:

 

1. Require documentary evidence for lower seat belt mountings
   
2. Rear fog lamp fitted too low (230mm)
   
3. Rear fog lap tell tales not working
   
4. Hazard tell tale not working
   
5. No padded boss features fitted to steering wheel
   
6. Track rod end locknuts contactable (not to radius criteria)
   
7. Front suspension box section not to radius criteria
   
8. Front stub axle brackets not to radius criteria
   
9. Front coilspring locknuts not to radius criteria
   
10. Silencer bracket not to radius criteria
    
11. Spare wheel dish not to radius criteria
    
12. Locktabs on steering column shaft not peened over
    
13. Locknuts required on both track rod ends
    
14. Self adhesive pads retaining exterior wiring under rear of car loose
    
15. No reserve travel on parking brake in fully applied position
    
16. Rear axle metal brake pipes chafing on radius arm clips
    
17. Calculated weights exceed declared weights
    

 

Whilst a long list I was quite happy that there wasn't any thing too major.

 

I'm going to have to find some photos of the seat belt mountings as they're boxed in.

 

The hazard and fog tell tales should be ok, thought the rear fog lamp was being a bit picky.

 

Unfortunately I borrowed the cover for the Moutney steering wheel but it wasn't sufficient Will have to take the Sierra steering wheel down next time.

 

Didn't realise the missing lock nuts would be a fail as they're not on the original are they?

 

The box section etc is easy enough to cover up with the edging rubber... really should have done it before!

 

Locktabs were forgotten about when I rebuilt the steering column... doh!

 

The calculated weights was a little annoying. All I have to do is redeclare them next time... that will teach me to get them off the web!

 

The handbrake will be tricky.. Suppose I'll have to find some way of removing the non-existent slack in the system...

 

Got a little worried when the offside wheel started squeaking but it turned out to be a cold brake disc/pad.

 

Still got massive problems with the engine though. Just about got it running well enough to do the 160 mile drive but it has no power at speed... struggeld getting to 60. The emissions test might give a clue to the problem, he said it's the lowest readings he's seen on an engine that old and was surprised that the car was running at all... running a little lean me thinks? Shame it's an EFI I'm suspecting a fuel delivery problem or an air leak somewhere. Anyone have the means to test fuel pressure? I've contemplated modding the AFM to force more fuel in or fitting another fuel reg on the return line? Would really like to get to the bottom of this one. Took it to 2 garages but they wouldn't touch it as they said it would cost more than buying a new carb based engine... bit lost

Well done

As you say it at first glance looks like a long list but most are very easy to fix. You say the handbrake will be tricky! If you have drums then adjust the shoes up so they are just rubbing with the cable slack now adjust the cable (white knob on outer cable) until the brakes are full on at the three click point. Job done.

Fuelling, switch the ignition on and off two or three times to ensure the system is pressurised now crack off the input to the fuel rail ( standing as clear as you can) to check that it has a good pressure in it. I take it you have screwed in the air bypass in the mass air valve. Other than that have a squirt around all the joints with carb cleaner to check for air leaks. The EFI systom its self is normally very reliable any problems are normally electronic.

[NeilD]

and lots of self amagamating tape over any offending radius

[Grizzly]

Well done so far.

"Didn't realise the missing lock nuts would be a fail as they're not on the original are they?"

- Not sure what you mean here? What original? Oh, is that Item 13? If so then yes, they need to be locked on both ends of the extender piece.

Can you get a camera squeezed in from the propshaft/diff end and ping off a photo or two of the seatbelt mounts?

Can't help with this new-fangled EFI stuff I'm afraid.

Just get all those radiuses sorted and make sure all cables & pipes are well secured.

Best of luck for next time. Nearly there eh?

[NeilD]

Shame it's an EFI

 

I thought this at first - had weird issues with a vibrating ECU ( and air leaks )

 

Once the initial issues got resolved not a hiccup for 3 years

[Guest salty_monk]

Seems like a pretty good first attempt to me!

[Guest MacMustang]

Well done

As you say it at first glance looks like a long list but most are very easy to fix. You say the handbrake will be tricky! If you have drums then adjust the shoes up so they are just rubbing with the cable slack now adjust the cable (white knob on outer cable) until the brakes are full on at the three click point. Job done.

Fuelling, switch the ignition on and off two or three times to ensure the system is pressurised now crack off the input to the fuel rail ( standing as clear as you can) to check that it has a good pressure in it. I take it you have screwed in the air bypass in the mass air valve. Other than that have a squirt around all the joints with carb cleaner to check for air leaks. The EFI systom its self is normally very reliable any problems are normally electronic.

 

I've not played with the screw yet, what does it do? Should it be all the way in? When you say spray the joints, do you mean from the inside?

 

 

Well done so far.

"Didn't realise the missing lock nuts would be a fail as they're not on the original are they?"

- Not sure what you mean here? What original? Oh, is that Item 13? If so then yes, they need to be locked on both ends of the extender piece.

Can you get a camera squeezed in from the propshaft/diff end and ping off a photo or two of the seatbelt mounts?

Can't help with this new-fangled EFI stuff I'm afraid.

Just get all those radiuses sorted and make sure all cables & pipes are well secured.

Best of luck for next time. Nearly there eh?

 

Well this is the strange thing. I have both the locknuts on the extender piece. He's referring to the track rod end itself. I didn't think this would have a lock nut on and can't see what it would help? Surely the track rod end needs to be free?

[Guest chris brown]

I've not played with the screw yet, what does it do? Should it be all the way in? When you say spray the joints, do you mean from the inside?

The screw (Alan key required) adjusts the air bypassing the air flow meter therefore screwing it in reduces the air bypassing and the ECU sees more air so increases the fuel. This is only a fine adjustment so if it is very lean then it may well be an other problem.

 

Spray all joints Manifold to head, air idle to plenum, throttle body to plenum. etc with engine running and listen for a change of note the engine will pickup as soon as it gets a smell of the cleaner indicating an air leak.

[Guest MacMustang]

The screw (Alan key required) adjusts the air bypassing the air flow meter therefore screwing it in reduces the air bypassing and the ECU sees more air so increases the fuel. This is only a fine adjustment so if it is very lean then it may well be an other problem.

 

Spray all joints Manifold to head, air idle to plenum, throttle body to plenum. etc with engine running and listen for a change of note the engine will pickup as soon as it gets a smell of the cleaner indicating an air leak.

 

Top tip cheers

[Guest robinj66]

I may have got the wrong end of the stick (should that be "track rod" ) but there does need to be a nut locking each TRE

[Guest chris brown]

I may have got the wrong end of the stick (should that be "track rod" ) but there does need to be a nut locking each TRE

I wasn’t sure what was meant either but if it has an extender then there should be three locknuts - one each end of the threaded tube and one on the TRE as in Robin's photo

[Bob Tucker]

Surely the track rod end needs to be free?

 

The inner end inside the gaiter is the free end....it has a ball joint of some kind.

The outer end of the rod needs to be locked to the bottom ball joint.....see the pics.

HTH Bob

[Guest shagster]

Unlucky Adam mate, But like you say not a massive list.

 

Why did he fail it on my steering wheel pad, Its passed every other sva it went to without problem. Sounds like he couldnt find alot wrong with your car and just started nit picking,

 

Sorry it didnt pass on the parts you borrowed.

 

mike.

[Guest MacMustang]

Unlucky Adam mate, But like you say not a massive list.

 

Why did he fail it on my steering wheel pad, Its passed every other sva it went to without problem. Sounds like he couldnt find alot wrong with your car and just started nit picking,

 

Sorry it didnt pass on the parts you borrowed.

 

mike.

 

Don't worry about it. Like you say I think he just had to find something!

[Guest MacMustang]

Hey guys,

 

Well following a break for Christmas, illness, madness at work after Chirstmas etc etc (oh yeah and having my Mustang written off for me by a kind young lady... grr! I'm over it now honest) I've now got my second SVA booked and have completed everything on the list bar the photo graphic evidence of the lower seat belt mounting bracket and the spare wheel cover.

 

I'm looking for a bit of inspiration, I don't really want to have to dismantle the outer skin to take a picture of the seat belt mounting bracket but can't find a image suitable from the DVD's... Anyone have any suggestions?

 

I've made up a wooden cover for the rear wheel and hoped to purchase a cheap spare wheel cover from a motor factors. Has anyone every seen anything suitable?

 

Cheers,

 

Adam