Replacing A 1.8 Ford Sierra Engine With A 2.0l Zetec

[Guest sherman0251]

Hi All,

Trying to find out some info if possible! I have today just taken out the old 1.8 Sierra engine and am looking at buying a NEW 2.0L Zetec. I have a mate who is mechanically minded that will help me on this rebuild but I have a few questions which I hope someone can answer for me.

 

Would the Sierra radiator be sufficient to cool the Zetec?

 

The Zetec engine im buying comes with Throttle Boddies, Engine loom excluding ECU, Injectors and Fuel Rail, Inlet Exhaust and Manifolds, Leads and plugs, Coil Pack, Water Pump, Clutch, Flywheel, Thermostat Housing......... Is there any parts from the Sierra engine that could be reused on the Zetec, such as the alternator Fuel Pump etc?

Ive heard that the Zetec sump will need the lower half chopping off is this right?

 

I would be gratefull to know if anyone else has fitted a 2.0L Zetec and if they have any advice which I may find usefull!

 

Cheers

 

Ian

[Longboarder]

Sierra rad should be fine.

You will need to make new engine mounts and alternator bracket.

Flywheel is very heavy and usual swap is for a 1.8 flywheel which is much lighter. If you buy from retro ford they will drill the face for a 2L sierra clutch and pressure plate and can supply the spigot bearing for the centre of the crank hole (where the nose of the gearbox input shaft is supported) and so you re-use your sierra clutch bits including the release bearing(if it's a 1.8 pinto. Don't know if the 1.8 cvh bits fit).

Starter from 1.8 CVH or 2L DOHC.

The manifolds are difficult to re-use in the space you have and there are various alternatives in bike or jenvey throttlebodies or bike carbs or webers and suitable intake manifolds. You can re-use the injectors and loom.

Exhaust manifold can come from GBS or have one made up.

You can shorten the steel part of the sump and the oil pickup pipe.

You will need a high pressure fuel pump and micro filter and some sort of swirl pot to avoid fuel surge on corners.

Then you just need an ECU by Omex/Emerald or megasquirt.

Cooling plumbing is easy using the ford thermostat housing. I got by with some copper pipe from B&Q, old rubber pipes from the spares box and only had to buy one silicon reducer to get it all to fit.

You will need to lose the brake servo and probably modify the pedal box.

Probably forgotten a few bits but that's a start.

 

Nigel

[Guest sherman0251]

Sierra rad should be fine.

You will need to make new engine mounts and alternator bracket.

Flywheel is very heavy and usual swap is for a 1.8 flywheel which is much lighter. If you buy from retro ford they will drill the face for a 2L sierra clutch and pressure plate and can supply the spigot bearing for the centre of the crank hole (where the nose of the gearbox input shaft is supported) and so you re-use your sierra clutch bits including the release bearing(if it's a 1.8 pinto. Don't know if the 1.8 cvh bits fit).

Starter from 1.8 CVH or 2L DOHC.

The manifolds are difficult to re-use in the space you have and there are various alternatives in bike or jenvey throttlebodies or bike carbs or webers and suitable intake manifolds. You can re-use the injectors and loom.

Exhaust manifold can come from GBS or have one made up.

You can shorten the steel part of the sump and the oil pickup pipe.

You will need a high pressure fuel pump and micro filter and some sort of swirl pot to avoid fuel surge on corners.

Then you just need an ECU by Omex/Emerald or megasquirt.

Cooling plumbing is easy using the ford thermostat housing. I got by with some copper pipe from B&Q, old rubber pipes from the spares box and only had to buy one silicon reducer to get it all to fit.

You will need to lose the brake servo and probably modify the pedal box.

Probably forgotten a few bits but that's a start.

 

Nigel

Thanks Nigel! That definately helps. Nice to know that I can reuse some parts rather than throw away!

No doubt ill be bak on here soon with more questions!

 

Regards

Ian

[Guest sherman0251]

Sierra rad should be fine.

You will need to make new engine mounts and alternator bracket.

Flywheel is very heavy and usual swap is for a 1.8 flywheel which is much lighter. If you buy from retro ford they will drill the face for a 2L sierra clutch and pressure plate and can supply the spigot bearing for the centre of the crank hole (where the nose of the gearbox input shaft is supported) and so you re-use your sierra clutch bits including the release bearing(if it's a 1.8 pinto. Don't know if the 1.8 cvh bits fit).

Starter from 1.8 CVH or 2L DOHC.

The manifolds are difficult to re-use in the space you have and there are various alternatives in bike or jenvey throttlebodies or bike carbs or webers and suitable intake manifolds. You can re-use the injectors and loom.

Exhaust manifold can come from GBS or have one made up.

You can shorten the steel part of the sump and the oil pickup pipe.

You will need a high pressure fuel pump and micro filter and some sort of swirl pot to avoid fuel surge on corners.

Then you just need an ECU by Omex/Emerald or megasquirt.

Cooling plumbing is easy using the ford thermostat housing. I got by with some copper pipe from B&Q, old rubber pipes from the spares box and only had to buy one silicon reducer to get it all to fit.

You will need to lose the brake servo and probably modify the pedal box.

Probably forgotten a few bits but that's a start.

 

Nigel

Might be a silly question to ask but when you say lose the brake servo what goes in place of it?

 

Thanks

 

Ian

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Might be a silly question to ask but when you say lose the brake servo what goes in place of it?

 

Thanks

 

Ian

 

Nothing!, you bin it.

 

All you need is a longer push rod which you can make or buy, Tiger racing make them for less than a tenner.

 

In my opinion and lots of other people on here brakes feel much better and far more progressive without the servo.

[Guest sherman0251]

Nothing!, you bin it.

 

All you need is a longer push rod which you can make or buy, Tiger racing make them for less than a tenner.

 

In my opinion and lots of other people on here brakes feel much better and far more progressive without the servo.

Oh right thanks! Like i say I dont have much mechanic experiance but tryin to do this project myself if I can with a bit help from my mate! Ill try and post some pics of my work so far!

[Guest sherman0251]

Just a Pic of the bay now Ive got the engine out! In the process of rubbing down inside of the engine bay. Planning giving it a coat of red oxide then primer and then its final colour!

[Longboarder]

As it's an exmo you may have clearance problems at the back of the head for the thermostat housing. The engine (and thus the gearbox) will probably have to come forward an inch or two. Fitting a water rail reduces this distance but is costly, upsets engine cooling and you may still need a new longer propshaft. I stuck with the ford stat housing moved the lot 2.5inches and bought a new longer prop. Odly a prop is cheaper than a water rail!

When you fit the engine and the inlet manifold/carbs/throttlebodies you will see why the servo has to go!

 

Nigel

[Guest sherman0251]

As it's an exmo you may have clearance problems at the back of the head for the thermostat housing. The engine (and thus the gearbox) will probably have to come forward an inch or two. Fitting a water rail reduces this distance but is costly, upsets engine cooling and you may still need a new longer propshaft. I stuck with the ford stat housing moved the lot 2.5inches and bought a new longer prop. Odly a prop is cheaper than a water rail!

When you fit the engine and the inlet manifold/carbs/throttlebodies you will see why the servo has to go!

 

Nigel

Do you have any pictures of your engine so I can get an idea of how its looks fitted?

[Guest gdc]

and when you first hit the brakes withought a servo

your bum will twitch !but they do work however you need more effort to

make it stop .

graham

 

my bum still twitches , mayby thats a different thing though !