Pinto Injection

[Guest yellow peril]

off to get a 2 litre pinto tommorow, just want to make sure i get back home with the right 1,, as i understand it the best ones are the later sierra injection engines (although the injection will be coming off), to id this engine do i just need to look out for 205 on the block, or did other less usefull engines like the transit one use the same id. anything else i can id a sierra inj engine by???.

 

Also am presuming all my older (83) pinto auxilleries, manifold exhaust etc will fit straight onto the newer one, am i right.

 

[Peter Bell]

I am pretty certain all the injection blocks were 205s and guess the easiest way is by seeing all the injection gubbins on it! The manifolds will be a straight swap, you might want to take a bit out of the top of the inlet manifold to try to match the pear shaped ports of the injection head and use a cheap carb gasket as the ford ones are a bit thin at the top. I think the other bits should swap over, it depends what comes on the engine, the water pump is different on the later engine, it has an extra bolt I seem to remember. Good luck.

Peter.

[Guest Mr Pid]

One other point you may consider is that the con rods on the injection pinto are a different length to the carb ones.

 

This may affect the compression ratio and the running of the engine. This was one of the reasons why i stuck to the injection variants when replacing my blown inj lump. I didnt want any grief once it was all back together. It may be ok with carbs, im not sure though.

 

Good luck.

 

Stu

[Big Jim]

One other point you may consider is that the con rods on the injection pinto are a different length to the carb ones.

Sorry Stu, not according to the book, the 2ltr engines, carb or EFI all have 90.82 x 76.95mm bore/stroke.

The 1.8 ltr variant is different (86.2 x 79.95mm) the 1.6 ltr has the same stroke as the 2ltr, but a smaller bore (81.32mm)

 

The EFI cylinder head will take the carb inlet manifold, but you are correct in what you say about the gasket, get a cheaper version of the CARB manifold gasket (as there is more 'paper' to the gasket), not the EFI manifold gasket.

 

You paid your membership yet, Ben??? are are staying as a user??

[Guest TerryBarry]

The con rods could be a different length - surely the stoke is set by the throw of the crankshaft. Although not by much unless there is a major difference in the design of the pistons.

(Quickly withdraws head below parapet)

 

Terry

[Guest Simon cooper]

Hello Terry,

Not too sure what you are saying, Yes the stroke is dictated by the crank, but if the rods are longer then you have a very "Tall" block. The 205 block is identical as the old 2.0 ( Bore x Stroke) block but is stronger so allows you to Eek more power out of it without haveing to beef it up.

Regards

Simon

[Guest TerryBarry]

Hi Simon,

I think that I was trying to say that it would be more probable that the con rods were a different design in the 205 engine rather than a different length.

Also that the stroke of governed by the throw of the crankshaft.

If the con rods were longer within the same block then the design of the piston would need to be changed such that the centre of the gudgeon pin was closer to the piston crown.

 

Terry

[Guest yellow peril]

In the pinto hunt, i have found one of which the engine numbers do not tally with any chart I can find,

 

It is a 205 block (the big 205 in 2 places is a good hint)

 

but the block has a 3 letter code HH3, at top left of engine, and the code at the bottom of the block is 85 HF 10039A, what does this mean and what is it out of??

 

Bill,,, cheques in the post (no really it is) If my membership form is not recieved over the next couple of days the postman has eaten it.

[Guest TerryBarry]

Can you find a letter code stamped on one of the "ears" at the rear of the block - where the engine bolts to the bellhousing.

This is normally on the opposite side to the starter motor

These normally take the form NES; NET; NRB or N4A - having said this my engine is a 2.0l carb unit ( NES or NET) but only has NE stamped on it.

I'll try and check the 85xxxxxx code on mine later and add this info.

 

Terry

[Guest yellow peril]

found it, it has the code N4, which I believe is the injection model, unleaded head etc. It only has the two letters though like yours does, rather than 3

[Guest Mr Pid]

I am only going on what i was told by Burtons as i rang them up when the beast blew and told them i intended on a rebuild using alot of parts from a donor engine, ie con rods, pistons, crank etc.

 

They said that as i had a carb model it would not be compatible as the con rods used in the inj model are longer/shorter (cant remember which) and are "wide beam" so capable of the extra power.

 

Personally i have never heard or a con rods buckling under sheer power of the engine alone, usually happens when something breaks(in my case) or you suck up water (not good either). :boohoo:

 

Not disputing anything anyone has said, still not clear myself-had so many people telling me it will be fine and others saying it wont. I played it safe in the end as i just want to end up driving the car at some point rather than keep re-building it.

 

Hope it works out ok in the end.

 

Stu