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Pinto Timing


ronboyracer

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Guest mower man
:hi: It's doubtful the cambelt would slip if it is tensioned properly.Iwould set the engine up to the manual it should start even with a wild competition cam you may have to play with ign timing [ use a timing light,borrow beg or steal ] check all components it SHOULD run HTHmower man :good: :yahoo:
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Guest bonnie

Hi i've seen pinto's timing being way out(some times 2 teeth) even from the factory, if your running a big cam it might be prudent to fit a vernier cam pully which will allow you to set the timing perfectly,as the standard ford pully does not allow for any movment.

hope this helps

JD :rolleyes:

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You do not make it clear if you suspect cam timing or ignition timing to be out and yes they can slip. Retime the cam according to Haynes or the cam manufacturers website. Whilst you have the engine on TDC whip off the dizzy cap and check that the rotor arm is in the 4 oclock position when looked at from standing immediately behind the left front wheel. If not remove the dizzy from the block and re-insert it so that it is. Now line up the scribed mark on the rim of the dizzy with the centre of the rotor arm outer end and lightly clamp the dizzy bolt. Timing should be close enough to start. If not rotate 10 degrees either way or even 20 as your assistant cranks the engine. The adjust when the engine will run using a timing light.

The last little wrinkle is to confirm that the engine is on tdc on the firing stroke of number 1 and check that the rotor arm is pointing at number 1 plug lead. (Plug out on number 1, ignition off, turn engine with spanner on crank pulley bolt, thumb over spark plug hole, feel the pressure as the piston rises, yes that's the compression stroke for number 1, few degrees before the piston reaches TDC you need a spark, rotor needs to be pointing to the correct plug lead. Surprisingly easy to get it 180 degrees out and be trying to fire number 4 plug when it should be number 1).

 

Nigel

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You do not make it clear if you suspect cam timing or ignition timing to be out and yes they can slip. Retime the cam according to Haynes or the cam manufacturers website. Whilst you have the engine on TDC whip off the dizzy cap and check that the rotor arm is in the 4 oclock position when looked at from standing immediately behind the left front wheel. If not remove the dizzy from the block and re-insert it so that it is. Now line up the scribed mark on the rim of the dizzy with the centre of the rotor arm outer end and lightly clamp the dizzy bolt. Timing should be close enough to start. If not rotate 10 degrees either way or even 20 as your assistant cranks the engine. The adjust when the engine will run using a timing light.

The last little wrinkle is to confirm that the engine is on tdc on the firing stroke of number 1 and check that the rotor arm is pointing at number 1 plug lead. (Plug out on number 1, ignition off, turn engine with spanner on crank pulley bolt, thumb over spark plug hole, feel the pressure as the piston rises, yes that's the compression stroke for number 1, few degrees before the piston reaches TDC you need a spark, rotor needs to be pointing to the correct plug lead. Surprisingly easy to get it 180 degrees out and be trying to fire number 4 plug when it should be number 1).

 

Nigel

U R quite right the cam timing was way out, the belt had slipped, made worse by my endeavours to cure the problem by rotating the drive train by means of the cam shaft bolt big mistake, tha crankshaft is the only way to go, lesson learnt. Thank u again.

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