Anti Roll Bar Modification

[Guest The Modfather]

The dreaded anti roll bar rears it's head!

 

As part of my dilema re the zetec fouling the anti roll bar, a thought has sprung (no pun intended) to mind.

 

Can the ARB be cut to allow the zetec to be lowered? Once cut, can I make a second mount at the cut end and bolt this to the floor? I will also make 2 flat steel plates so that the two mounts on each side (4 mounts in total) will also bolt thru this, which will strengthen that area up.

 

Your thoughts please gents.

 

Darren

[Jez Morton]

Tie bars?

 

If I understand your plan and the roll bar is cut then fixed at the cut ends, it may become too stiff. Search for tie bars these where a popular modification.

 

Jez

[Guest The Modfather]

Tie bars?

 

If I understand your plan and the roll bar is cut then fixed at the cut ends, it may become too stiff. Search for tie bars these where a popular modification.

 

Jez

 

Hi Jez.

 

I have found the tie bar mod on the Northwest site and both appear to be 3a monocoques chassis, which is the same as mine. I suppose I'm just being tight and wanting to try and convert what I already have. If it cannot be done with the original ARB then I will have to fabricate some tie bars.

One of the pics shown on the Northewest site appears to be cut down ARB with a rose joint welded on. I don't know who owns this car as they may be able to clarify how it was made.

Thanks

Darren

[Guest mower man]

Daz you say in your signature; if it's worth doing do it right , Isent you plans,dimensions and photo's of aworking and proven set up why not do it? mower man

[Guest The Modfather]

Daz you say in your signature; if it's worth doing do it right , Isent you plans,dimensions and photo's of aworking and proven set up why not do it? mower man

 

MM, you are right! I will amend my work shy ways immediately and will dig out the bits you sent me.

Whats the point of having a signature and not sticking to it? I will humbly apologise for my slip and will go and beat myself with a dampened stick repeatedly.

[Guest mower man]

Daz it wasnot meant to be a dig honestly the system works and allows caster adjustment as an added bonus if you dont understand my instruction get in touch and wecan sort it.BTW itwill be easier tocomplete with the engine out regards mowerman

[Guest The Modfather]

MM I didn't take it as a dig at all my friend, in fact I PMSL when I saw that you quoted my signature especially when you used the waggy finger emoticon.

 

I showed my work colleague what I was laughing about and then showed him my signature, and he too told me off for bodging!

 

I do still have the papers you sent, and I will look through them after dinner.

 

You haven't by any means upset me, so don't worry.

 

Darren

[Guest The Modfather]

Hi Mick.

 

I have looked thru the instructions that you sent, and can I just confirm the length of the tie bars is to be 14.25" at their finished ends, that being one end hollowed and tapped for the RJ thread, and the other end (TCA end) threaded to take the lock nut? At 20mm thick?

 

The rest seems straight forward, just need to find a machining company to do the biz.

 

Thanks mate.

 

Darren

[Guest AWhite]

Hi,

 

I've got tie bars fitted to my 3A for a few years now and it made a big difference. The ARB is way to stiff for such a light weight car. Fitting the tie bars make the whole front end more independant.

 

Andy

[Guest mower man]

Hi Mick.

 

I have looked thru the instructions that you sent, and can I just confirm the length of the tie bars is to be 14.25" at their finished ends, that being one end hollowed and tapped for the RJ thread, and the other end (TCA end) threaded to take the lock nut? At 20mm thick?

 

The rest seems straight forward, just need to find a machining company to do the biz.

 

Thanks mate.

 

Darren

Daz you are correct on the first point ok ,the other end should be turn down to the same dimensions as the orig a/roll bar to accept orig size bushes ineither h/duty rubber or poly bushes your choice Ihave not used poly's but it may be worth while HTH regards mower man

[Guest The Modfather]

Cheers Mick.

 

Did you get my PM? The RJ's are confusing in sizes and left or rights, and the diameter of the hole in the RJ? What is JAM 12 ASA?

I entered this in Ebay and got jars of preserves!!!!!!

[Guest mower man]

Cheers Mick.

 

Did you get my PM? The RJ's are confusing in sizes and left or rights, and the diameter of the hole in the RJ? What is JAM 12 ASA?

I entered this in Ebay and got jars of preserves!!!!!!

Hi will look through my reciepts but I think it is the part no for the joints the 12 bring the male thread and also the bore of the ball to take a 12mmbolt not a set screw !so there is a plain shank as a bearing surface not threads may be aday or two as from this afternoon Iwas made redundant regards mick aka mower man :good:youonly need rh thread!

[Guest The Modfather]

Oh Mick, sorry to hear that. Is it immediate or do you have some time to find another job? This country is well up the swanny.

 

I will look again on Ebay for the joints. I have found a local engineering compant but not approached them yet. If your bars are straight, do your wheels rub on them at full lock?

 

Darren

[Peter Bell]

Very sorry to hear your news Mick hope it is not for long. Darren here is a picture of Richard Halfacres tie bars (he started them about 15 years ago!) the wheel can just rub on them it depends on how far forward you mount the bracket and the wheel offset.

[Guest The Modfather]

Thanks Peter. I have quite an offset and they prob will rub, so I was thinking about having the bars bent at the machine shop?