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davey
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hi

any ideas about this little prob, fully charged battery volts at the red wire on ignition switch but nowhere else, no power to dash but power to horn and hazards, electrikery is not my strong point but have multimeter if any one has any ideas

many thanks

davey

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Both horn and hazards are fed with a permament live feed. Most of everything else is fed from an ignition controlled feed. The live red feed goes into the ignition switch, when you turn the key to the first position you activate the ignition controlled feed (Usually Black/Yellow - Fuel pump, flashers, coil etc.) Turning the key further turns the starter.

Check to continuity at the back of the ignition switch first with a circuit tester.

Bentbonnet

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Both horn and hazards are fed with a permament live feed. Most of everything else is fed from an ignition controlled feed. The live red feed goes into the ignition switch, when you turn the key to the first position you activate the ignition controlled feed (Usually Black/Yellow - Fuel pump, flashers, coil etc.) Turning the key further turns the starter.

Check to continuity at the back of the ignition switch first with a circuit tester.

Bentbonnet

ok have just checked and there are no volts on yellow black wire or any other wire except for the red one, have tried ignition switch in all positions and have just popped out the chamber and given switch a squirt of servisol. looks like the switch is dud, if it is how difficult is it to change?

many thanks

davey

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if you are using the sierra fuse box, the starter etc goes through some relays, could be one of them not working

peter2b

Hhmmm not thought about relays, there are 3 one is the flasher unit, how would i test the relays?

thanks

davey

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Ign switch can be a pain to remove as this would generally be either a Ford dealer specialist removal tool, or a thief's slide hammer! Probable best best is a £20 switch from CBS or similar retro fitted onto the dash board, and leave the old one in the column for the steering lock if fitted. Mine is done this way.

 

Hopefuly someone else will tell you about relays, I'm rubbish with car electrics when they disappear inside boxes of gizmos!!!!

 

Daz

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Ignition switch is the plastic bit with the red, black blue, black yellow and yellow wires fitted on the end of the steering lock and ignition key barrel, tother end to where the key goes in. It's held with two grub screws. Remove the grub screws and take it off. You should now see the end of the lock/key barrel and check if it turns when you turn the key. Have a look at the rectangular end that does the turning and the recess in the switch to see they fit together OK and are not mangled so the one can turn the other.

If this is OK then unplug the four wire connector for the switch itself and test it on the bench. There are four positions/clicks. You can turn it with a big screwdriver. Zero is off and nothing is connected. First connects red to yellow for radio supply. Second connects red (and yellow) to Black/Yellow for ignition live circuits. Third connects all together.(includes black/blue for the starter solenoid and springs back when released.)

Sounds live the ignition switch is duff but test it.

 

Nigel

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Ign switch can be a pain to remove as this would generally be either a Ford dealer specialist removal tool, or a thief's slide hammer! Probable best best is a £20 switch from CBS or similar retro fitted onto the dash board, and leave the old one in the column for the steering lock if fitted. Mine is done this way.

 

Hopefuly someone else will tell you about relays, I'm rubbish with car electrics when they disappear inside boxes of gizmos!!!!

 

Daz

Hi Daz you don't need a special tool to get the lockbarrel out of most Fords just a key and a small screw driver if you haven't a key it's a big drill.The switch it's self is held by two grub screws as Nigel says

regards mower man [mick] :good:

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