Sump

[Guest paul boatman]

Does anyone out there know where I can get hold of shortened sump - I dont weld and am fully aware of the design on the rhocar page but don't really want to have the car off the road while some herbert tries to follow the instructions.(even though they are excellent)

 

any contacts would be appreciated

[Big Jim]

The easiest & cheapest way is; nip down to your local scrappy with a 10mm & 17mm socket, long extension & ratchet, hide or plastic hammer, & 10mm spanner. Find his pile of knackered engines (all scrappy's have one) take off the sump & pick up pipe, don't pay more than a fiver (sort out the price before you start)

Now cut off the bottom as per instructions (ie 5½" from fitting face) find a piece of metal that you can make up the "box" out of (110mm X 220mm) cut that out, drill the hole for the sump plug, bend over the edges in the vice using a precision knocking stick. Now place the box on the side of the sump where it's going to finish up (make sure it's not the side where the starter motor lives!) draw around the edges with a felt tip / pencil, cut out the 2 "V"s. Find a piece of 3mm or 2mm thick plate big enough for the base, put the sump & box on the plate, draw around them with the felt tip, cut it out with the jig saw or whatever.

Now decide if you are going to have a go at the pipe, take your time, using a blow lamp you can "sweat" the strainer off, then cut the pipe down a bit at a time, just prise the opening into the strainer a bit on one side, as you will finish up cutting the pipe actually just onto the bend. once you've got it all to this stage, THEN take it along to your engineering shop and ask them to, A. braze (solder) the strainer onto the pipe (once done, you can put it into the sump and see how it is (hold down on the bracket) then B. Get them to weld the sump plug nut into the box (see Build tips) then weld (preferably TIG weld) the box onto the side of the sump & together at the seams, finally to weld the plate that you've already cut out, onto the base. Ask them if they can test it for porosity (they should have some specialist die & stuff)

this means that all you have to pay for is the actual welding and not the rest. Realistically I wouldn't expect to pay more than £20 as it's about 15 mins work for a good welder.

If you do it this way, you've not took your car off the road until you decide to fit the shortened sump.

[Mat-Moo]

That's pretty much what I did. I have no skill with metal/welding - but basically I cut and prepared everything and got a local engineering firm to do it (friend from church so free!).

[Guest 2BBoulton]

Paul and Big Jim

 

I have recently shortend me sump following the method from the old pages (same as your instructions). I found the following points.

 

1 The strainer did not "sweat off" with a blow lamp (lots of oil burning smoke however). It required a oxy torch to get enough heat into the weld.

2 If i was to mod the oil pick up pipe agian instead of removing the strainer, cutiing the pipe down and then trying to re weld the stariner back on (on the elbo). A much simpler method is to leave the strainer in place, chop the required amount off the pipe ABOVE the elbo and re weld the two parts You will get a much better weld.

 

I am lucky enough to work for an engineering firm so I had all the tools and a very good welder do the TiG welding . I have moved the sump plug to the back in an attemp to make draining the oil out easier as the bottom of the sump is no longer sloping. If you follow the link below there is a picture of my sump in place. (Web site very much under construction!).

 

Good luck

 

Bruce

 

I

[Guest 2BBoulton]

Sorry Jim,

 

Didn't realise that you wrote the original on the old site, it would explain why they are identical

 

Before the mod I only had 1.5 inches of ground clearance, now 3 inches, and would recomend doing it before fitting the engine. It took me two days to get the sump off as I had to remove the exhaust pipes, heat shield ect before I could get the blasted thing off and then another day to get it back on.

 

Bruce

[Big Jim]

I tell all the new builders to do the mod before fitting the engine, some listen, some don't (then have problems!)

actually, the engine tends to slope forward in the 2B as does yours!

[Guest DaveB]

Hi Guys

 

I just come indoors and logged on after spending the evening shortening my sump I followed Jim instructions and had no problems at all. I have left it over night filled past the weld with parrafin on a layer of kitchen roll I am confident there will be no leaks. This is the first real major job I have done with my MIG welding kit and its the first time I have welded anything for over 30 years and that was with gas. The strainer pipe is soldered on with silver solder you need get the pipe dull red hot before it will move patience is the key. I have re fitted the strainer by brazing using ready flux rods and a MAP gas blow torch that was the easy part.

 

Dave B

[Guest 2BBoulton]

Ah but Jim when the car is on my ramps it slopes backwards. I can vouch that doing the mod first is a must.

 

Bruce

 

[Guest Ant]

following the method from the old pages

I thought this site replaced the old discussion boards, not the entire RHOCAR site?

[Guest 2BBoulton]

I was under the impression it had as the old site hasn't been updated in a while. I still use the old site for the links etc but this is my first port of call for Hood related stuff. The best person to ask would be Mat.

 

Bruce

[Mat-Moo]

I thought this site replaced the old discussion boards, not the entire RHOCAR site?

No, this doesn't replace the whole site. I'm looking at changing to full online content and management though and the app I want to use (by the makers of this board) are not in a hurry for it, so it's taking longer than I had hoped. Appologies about my slackness on the main site - read about it in the next mag coming soon.

[Guest TerryBarry]

Hi Mat,

I've noticed ( he's quick this lad) that the time on this site has not updated to BST.

I know that the old one didn't either - but it stated that all times were GMT

It's just bit of a strain on the grey cells working it out.

Terry

[Mat-Moo]

Yep, I've looked into that - Click "My Controls" then select "Board Settings" from the menu on the left, then tick the option "Is daylight savings time in effect?" and then the button "Change My Account Options". The problem arises due to the number of timezones, and when people are effected byt this (if they are, not all change) so it's almost impossible to do it manually. But the board writers are looking to improve it.

[geoff shep]

Assuming you have a pinto engine, here's one:

 

Short Sump

[Guest TerryBarry]

Thanks Mat,

It's easy when you know what you're doing

Terry