Sierra Front Hub Clamp Thread Size?

[Guest Dickie]

I have a broken bolt in my front hub, it's the one in the clamp that holds the shock absorber in place. I think it my be M12? but need to know the exact thread size so I can order a tap.

 

Thanks

 

Rich

[Shaft]

Hi Rich, It's M12 x 1.75 mate. Ensure you get a bolt

long enough to thread through the hub casting and

allow a nylok nut to be fitted also.

This is an IVA requirement, belt and braces all the way.

 

HTH,

 

Nick.

[Guest Dickie]

Thanks, I would have just fitted bolts the correct length with no nut on the end, I suppose this means I could just drill all the way through if I make a mess of the thread cutting?

To change the subject slightly, I was told that the suspension components on one side have a 'notch' cut out, I thought they said 'fit on RH side' when I collected my kit, but I'm not sure, also the photo copy in the box is no use as it shows a R written over a L or it could be the other way round?

[Guest mcramsay]

if you are going to try to drill the bolt out then the tapping drill size for m12 x 1.75 is 10.2 mm, if you can center pop the end of the bolt in the center, and then progressively drill through (as straight as you can) up to 10.2mm then when you tap it the bolt should just crumble out like you are cutting a new thread. the other alternative is to spray freeing -off agent and leave for a while, then use an easy out set to get the bolt out. this requires you to drill a hole down through the bolt (the hole size depends on the easy out) then you place the easyout in to the drilled hole, the easyout has a left handed spiral., so as you loosen the easyout, the spiral cuts into the hole down through the stud and in turn unscrews it from the hole. if you have a small blow lamp, then heating the hub around the bolt hole will make the hole expand slightly making it easyer to remove.

 

hope im not teaching you to suck eggs! if you can i would try to do the easyout option first, will save you nackering the thread in the hub. if you dont feel confident a local engineering firm should be able to do it for you pretty easily!

[Guest mower man]

Taper easy out are the devils work !! never known one work in 50 years !! ,straight splined ones as sold by Snap-On work far better .As to your problem run a 12.5 mm drill through the orig hole and use slightly longer BOLTS and a nyloc nut ,job done my car has run like this for at least 10 years mower man

[Guest mcramsay]

agreed the splined easyouts are better, but theres nothing wrong with the spiral ones, used them many many times out our place with no troble atall. personally i woudlnt go ramming a drill through and taking out the threads that are there, if you can save them then i would save them.