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Changing Colour Of A Rh S7?


Guest gav

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Well, hi all. My first post and all that.

 

I'm the proud new owner of what was a non-running and rather tatty RH S7. I'm not sure which exact kit it is, but it has the RS2000 pinto engine in and the bicycle-style front arches.

 

Now I've got the thing up and running (points were corroded and the battery was permanently dead, it'd been out in the rain for two years) I'm thinking about changing its colour scheme.

 

Now, as far as I know, the fibreglass (?) panels are painted then laquered. Does that mean I need to order new panels, or can I remove the laquer and paint, then spray and re-laquer?

 

The aluminium panels (if I can get them off) present less of a problem, I'm hoping.

 

Not being overly experienced with this car (I've only had it six days), is a colour change operation even feasible for a semi-skilled mechanic? By semi-skilled I mean that I'd be ok with pulling the engine out and changing the clutch, but I'm not in the repair the gearbox myself league yet.

 

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

gav

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Guest Ianz

Gav

 

A S7 has'nt got aluminium panels, its a monocoque chassis with fibreglass

wings.

 

By the way ,put your location in your profile,you never no their maybe

a member near you who could pop round to give advice/assistance.

 

Cheers Ian

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. I'm not sure which exact kit it is,

 

I'm putting together a basic guide to the different types of Robin Hood here. although it's not complete, your's may be there.

Now, as far as I know, the fibreglass (?) panels are painted then laquered. Does that mean I need to order new panels, or can I remove the laquer and paint, then spray and re-laquer?

As Matt says, the original fibreglass bits were coloured gelcoat, not painted, but can easily be painted, first use a f/glass etch primer, once prepared. Be aware though, they could have been painted before by a previous owner, so the usual reactions could occure with different types of paint etc.

The aluminium panels (if I can get them off) present less of a problem, I'm hoping

As Ianz says, the monocoque has stainless panels, and you certainly won't get them off, they are an integral part of the car (Monocoque!) also this could be the hardest part to paint & get right, as the stainless has a "film" into the surface, it can be painted, people have done it, but be aware that there could be a reaction. If it's not too badly scratched, first wash it off with shampoo & water, then use a cheap glass cleaner & cloth to bring up the shine, and leave them as they are.

 

My advice, tidy it up, MOT it, tax it, and use it this summer, then when winter comes start thinking about the big jobs.

 

Otherwise, welcome to the world of Hoodies.

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Peter's correct Gav, there was the option to have zintec panels instead of stainless, that's mild steel with a zinc coating, they can be painted OK with the right type of undercoat first.

If it is a ladder framed car, then please send me some photo's for our "identification" page.

 

jim

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Thanks for the input!

 

I didn't see my kit on the identification page, so I've taken a few pictures of it

 

Front suspension (external)

http://www.wornfedora.com/phpatm/files/fiz...tsuspension.JPG

 

Front suspension (internal) - well, all I could get to easily, anyway

http://www.wornfedora.com/phpatm/files/fiz...ioninternal.JPG

 

two pics of paint flaking off the side and rear panels, which look like stainless

http://www.wornfedora.com/phpatm/files/fiz...sideflaking.JPG

http://www.wornfedora.com/phpatm/files/fiz...rearflaking.JPG

 

and, in the interests of science, I got a torch out and took some rear underside pics

 

the rear axle and diff

http://www.wornfedora.com/phpatm/files/fiz...diffandaxle.JPG

 

rear suspension

http://www.wornfedora.com/phpatm/files/fiz...rsuspension.JPG

 

 

Having had a closer look at the panels, I think I'll follow your advice and wait for the winter before attempting a colour scheme change!

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Right, it's a Sierra mark 1, commonly know as an S7, it has the zintec panels, it's got the standard sierra springs with th sierra shockers through the middle (by the looks!), it's also got a "normal" diff with rear brake drums.

2 mods to get the front suspension to work better are, change the springs to 130 lbs rated, it may already have had them changed, as the shockers are Spax units, not the usual Zimmerframe efforts. Then fit tie bars instead of the anti-roll bar, but these are jobs that can wait until winter, just get it on the road first and enjoy the summer.

Whist you're preparing it for painting, remove the fog light & reversing light from under the petrol tank filler, and relocate them elsewhere, change them for something else, anything, but if you leave them under the filler, they will be knackered again within 6 months.

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Guest crimpdoc

looks like your in the exact situation as myself I have an early S7 as the guy's on the site helped me identify, mines currently stripped down to the shell (sat on choks of wood in the garage) whilst I refurb all the bits. I was hoping to get mine on the road for summer, in a way I wish I'd just got mine through an MOT and on the road, don't under estimate the amount of work needed!! I'd send you some pics but I can't seem to get em from the camera onto the pc, keep us informed of your progress

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Peejay

Yep as jim says its a series 1 sierra, with the zintec body. You will need to completely strip off all the paint and use an etch primer. I didn't when I Built Mine!!!! :gdit:

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Guest Pete Jordan

Gav,

 

as the guys have already said it is a Series 1 Hood; I have one like it myself. The front Spax shocks were original equipment on this model as were the red springs, which were 180lb rated and far too stiff. I now have 120lb spings on mine (£26 each from Rally Design). It also looks as though whoever built it decided to paint the car withour etch priming it first so to do a proper job and not have the paint peeling off again you will need to strip all the paint off first. It's then a case of sanding off all the zintec coating or more easily using a proper etch primer before high build primer and top coat. Hope that's useful

 

Pete

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