2l Head

[Guest RH1]

Hi Everyone,

 

As I am no mechanical genius a little help needed, Please!

 

I have stripped my 2l Injection head with a clapped out cam ready to swap parts from a head I had given to me fitted with a Kent fr22 cam that has only covered some 200 miles so it is in excellent condition.

 

Differences between certain parts mean I am unsure exactly what to swap over to the Inj head.( Obviously the Cam)

 

The inlet valves are very different from each other, Inj head valves are marked, Ford PC.

 

Other head valves are marked, Ford C, they are the same length and diameter as the Inj ones but are very much lighter at the seat end and look to be fairly new.

 

Are the Ford C valves suitable for fitting to the injection head or should I stick with the standard Inj head valves ?

 

Inj head obviously has standard cam followers, other head has followers marked, Camtec 3844 are of slightly heavier construction and seem to have a larger contact area for the cam lobe, am guessing these were supplied with the new Kent cam so I should use these instead of the standard ones ?

 

Single valve springs on Inj head, Double on other head, the double springs are much shorter than the single ones, I know I have to swap the doubles over with the cam, but why are they shorter in length, any ideas ?

 

Thanks in advance for any forthcoming help.

 

I also have free to a good home, all parts for the 2B sliding pillar front suspension complete with new RH steering rack as supplied, if anyone is interested. I have had RS Jigtec fit there wishbone conversion to my chassis and would rather see the parts put to good use instead of rotting in the garage.

 

Cheers for now

 

Robert Hooper

[Guest Simon cooper]

Hi Robert,

A bit of a mix and match job then?

If the valve dimensions are the same, I mean, exactly the same then you can swap them over.But you must re-lap them in(only use fine paste, the finest you can find). It sounds like the valves in the non-injection head are "Wasted". These are narrower at the head to allow more flow. It has probably had a bit of money spent on it. Just check if the throats/ports have been cleaned up and maybe polished. If they have, then there is a fair chance that that head is better than the inj head you want to use. The springs should be interchangeable as well, unless the deck height of the valves has been altered on the donor head, in which case the head has had some work done and use that head. The double springs are more open in the windings ie. a greater pitch. This is to allow greater lift but avoiding "Coil Binding". They have to have a minimum spacing between coils when fully compressed. This will be ok in your case as the FR22 cam is not too wild. As for the length of the springs, it is common for performance springs to be shorter. The combined poundage of the pair will be slightly higher than the originals so will still need the same amount of pressure to compress it with the valve tool, and the cap and collets will still stay in place.

The followers are called "long pad" and are to stop the FR22 cam profile running off the rocker. Use those with the cam and also it is important to keep them matched, ie. in order.

Just one other thing. When you assemble it all, don't forget to make sure the oil spray bar is clear. Check if the kent one has larger holes, you can safely enlarge them with the next size up drill and put plenty of cam lube on all of it.

Hope you feel enlightened.

good luck

Simon

[Guest RH1]

Hi Simon,

 

Mix and match for sure , but not bad as it was a freebie ......

 

Having spent most of last night looking at various sites as sleep was in short supply, You have confirmed all I managed to glean from the net.

 

I know the head itself hasn't been modified at all, the valves are exactly the same basic dimensions, the spray bar has enlarged holes, will use the springs etc.

 

I dont really want to use the "Other Head" as it hasnt been modified for unleaded fuel, so will have to go with the Inj one.

 

I am well enlightened now, many thanks for the reply Simon

 

Engine rebuild a the weekend, work permitting !!

 

Cheers for now

 

Robert

[Guest Takumi]

Keep the inj valves and reprofile them to a flatter back (if you access to a small metal lathe then DiY) otherswise they'll have to sent to an engineering firm theat can lathe them for you. (im in the process of sorting mine out)

 

If anyone reading this has also read Dave Vizards - Ford SOHC book then all this will be understood. This flat back valve profile can hugely increase air flow at mid lift. (-where it counts)

 

Also if your head is high milage, then the valve guides will be worn, and the valves will beable to wobble from side to side in them (only slightly though...) it maybe worth seeing how much it will cost to have them milled out and new (either cast iron or Bronze guides) pressed in.

Once that is done, another good step is to remove to valve guide boss that protrudes into the port this inpedes air flow quite alot. Using a B&D drill and some cheap set Grinding stones, is a fairly easy job, taking me about 35mins a port (im a novice- this was my 1st). This can potential increase flow from std 150cfm aprx to over 165cfm. But his modification reduces the life time of the guide dramatically to at most 10,000 miles, if you engine isnt likely to do 10,000 mls quickly then this is worth thinking about.

 

Smoothing around the base of the ports is easy too, feel where the valve seat is pressed into the head, theres a huge edge, this can be smoothed down with grinding stones and any other casting marks that feel like an edge can be ground down aswell. simple and effective.

 

I still need to find a good cam for my engine and a set of new followers. anyone out there got a KFR32 cam and some new followers.?

[Guest RH1]

Hi Takumi,

 

Thanks for the info, have read Dave Vizzards book and also Dave Andrews articles on RHOcar site, all taken onboard so am in the process of sorting the head out, Die grinder is working overtime, although am not taking the valve guide bosses right down but as per Dave Andrews article leaving enough to allow better flow rates but lessen the wearing effects on the guides, a compromise but it seems to be a good way to go.

 

Have since found out the valves that came with the "other head" are wasted as Simon mentions, they are very much shallower backed than the inj ones, they came with the kent cam as a complete setup, along with the double springs and long pad followers, I have lapped them in and am very happy with the result.

I shall be having the head skimmed as a matter of course, but only after I have finished with the die grinder inside the ports!

 

The block I am keeping as standard as the wear in the bores is non existent, so will just de -glaze them, the crank is the same, no wear and a nice clean even matt grey finish in the bearings, all the required measurments are well within the specified tolerences for the crank and big ends, so will just be putting new bearings, oil seals, oil pump and core plugs all round.

 

The only other thing I may change is the fly wheel, I have a 1.6 sierra also, and just maybe the flywheel in there will be a little lighter than the inj one, will be weighing it when I eventually get to removing the gearbox I am using that as it is better than the 2l one.

 

Not sure which carbs to use as yet, have a set of twin dellorto's and a couple of webber 38 twinchokes laying in the garage somewhere.

May even pinch the webber twin 40's of the Marcos, I have the rest of the car to build before I make my mind up, so plenty of time yet.

 

Thanks for the info, very much appreciated

 

Robert

[Guest Takumi]

Hi,

Nice to hear that more people are grinding their own heads..

 

Ive found a company that offers to mill out and replace the old cast iron valve guides with racing bronze guides, wait.. for £30. Inc of the bronze guides..

Im in 2 minds wether to 1/2 strip my head down again and drive to this place wih my head and get them done.. and at the same time have the face skimmed 0.05 mm ( + 0.5:1, 9.6:1 to 10.1:1).

 

As ive just got a complete head set from halfords for £8.50,

Ive got all the gaskets to repalce the already fitted ones.

 

I Still havnt heard back from Holbay Engineering. I had sent an email asking for a quote for a rebore.+2.3mm

but still havnt got a reply, It would have been gr8 because they are only 2 miles away from me.! in woodrbidge..

 

Does anyone know of any good companies that do both valve guides and head skimming cheapo.? in Suffolk..?

[Guest jonno]

hi i have a fr32 cam i am going to use. but would i need double valve springs or different followers ???

[Guest Takumi]

DONT USE PERFORMANCE FOLLOWERS.!!

As most of them have a smaller radius contact area, where it touches the top of the valve. This reduces the surface area where it contacts the valves, and hugly accelerates valve tip wear, and once the hardened tip is gone, the valves may aswell be made of chalk.. Just get some new Std ones, they are best, probably cheapest from ford.. (I've heard...)

 

I wouldn't use double valve springs, they are realy only used for very high revving racing engines (9000rpm +). As at high rpm the valves begins to float,- at particular rpms the spring resonating frequency is very similar to the speed its being compressed and relaxed at, and the spring begins to bounces, and the value doesn't close or open properly.

ANSWER: 2 valve springs are employed with different characteristics so that to elliminate the floating effect at high rpm, allowing the valve to open and closed properly.

 

Dont forget to check your cam bearing shells, if they're the older whiteish metal

(I cant remember what compount it is..) you may want to change them for either bronze, later engines inc the Inj, I think were std with bronze bearing shells. As a hotter cam increase lift, and strain on the bearings, which can reduce the life of your cylinder head.

--GO FOR BRONZE--

 

If you want the performance edge ( sounds good anyway...) Look out for performance spring retainers, either Titanium or an Aluminium Alloy, they will reduce weight, but not realy enough to make a difference road engine.. both are ££ but sounds good when you talk about it .....

 

good luck

[Guest Takumi]

I finished perfecting my own valve profile..

And produced a valve on a metal turning lathe, (takes ages, because its stainless - its hard.)

If anyone want to use a this profile, feel free.. Ill sue you later..hahah ( only a joke)

Take a sneak peek..

 

Still have 3 more to do..

[Guest Simon cooper]

I do agree with most that has been said, however (why is it always means that appears controversial)?

Double valve springs also have another purpose, where lift has been increased you can encounter coil binding of the valve springs. The pitch of double springs is larger and therefore will not bind, the poundage in many cases is the same with the 2 as with the single spring.

I must also disagree (sorry) with the after market rockers. With performance cams, it is not uncommon for the cam to run off the end of the pad, so the correct rocker is needed for the cam you are using.

Simon

[Guest jonno]

thanx for advice so far. do i require any mods at all or can i just put the cam in with some lube ??

[Guest Takumi]

good point on the valve springs..

 

I've been measuring my springs, it looks like anything beyond 12-13mm lift & the springs would start sticking ( coils are touching )

 

so a Fast Road/Rally cam KCFR33, at 11.7/11.3mm and 300/297 gross dur, is probaly the best you could use on the standard head gear.

 

But persoanly I dont want a cam with that length of duration, I want one nearer 270, for better mid range torque rather than just high rpm power.. and no more than 11mm lift.

 

any ideas..

 

-many thanks.

TAK'

[Bob Tucker]

Dont forget that skimming the head will bu**er the cam timing.

You will need a vernier (adjustable) cam pulley.

Any tuner can supply them, Vulcan, Burton or Rally Design are good start points.

Bob.

[Guest Takumi]

Has anyone heard of a M.B.R Adjustable cam sprocket.?

 

I have one, but it is not a veriner, is a a ring of holes no.X, and it is in 3 parts, 1 part (slides onto the cam as would a normal sprocket.. 2nd part then slides onto this ( the sprocket part) The outer wheel has a slightly different number of holes i think X+2, so you can adjust the ad/ret by lining the correct hoels up, and when finished you put the last piece on which is a cap with a locking pin which goes through both parts and lockthem together. The last part has the hole where you tighten the sprocketbols to the cam..

 

has anyone heard of this manufacturer..? I have search on the net, but I can find nothing.

 

 

It is pre <1975

 

..

[Guest trevor hooley]

if fitting any hotter cam than an fr32 or the towing cam, definatley use the full cam kit, which will give you everything, and in my case having had an fr32 in my last engine double valve springs are a must if you do any serious head work.

 

ive had a new pinto built by euro engines fitted with an fr33, and they insist its double sprung otherwise and i quote ' serious fouling of the coils will occur under sustained high loads '

 

so you takes your pick and pray

 

karl