Nuts Or Not?

[agent_zed]

I just checked mine after reading this. The zero design is that there is no direct upward pressure on that joint as all the weight is taken by the lower wishbone.

 

On the RH though, the joint is made from beneath so there is pressure pulling the joint apart which is why you should check these. The zero does not have direct weight acting on this joint though so it's neutral compared to the other two methods.

 

Simon.

 

Not sure i see the difference between the zero and 2b setup aren't both double wishbones with a dummy strut to hold the top wishbone and the lower wishbone holding the shock don't they?

 

Whilst there won't be a huge amount of upward pressure, under cornering pressure will be going through the top wishbone, combine this with vibrations and it is possible the top wishbone could become loose.Depending on the engineering of the fit of the dummy strut if it is a loose-ish fit then if your bolt comes loose and you go round a corner and have the inside wheel (with less weight on it) drop into a dip/pothole and the top wishbone could stay where it is and the hub drop off the bottom as the shocker pushes the lower wishbone down.

Not a fun situation to be in.

 

Might not be the most common problem but it has happened as above.

[Guest mower man]

put a nut on it !!

[Guest chris brown]

It was advised in the 2B video that the upright and dummy strut should be drilled 6mm and a 6 mm nut and bolt used to lock it in place. as has been said all the weight was pressing down on the donor strut where as with double wishbone there is at times a slight lifting action

Edited April 13, 2015 by chris brown