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Oil Sump On 2Ltr Dohc


Guest jelleyhead

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Guest jelleyhead

Hi all am after some advise/help i have super spec running a 2 ltr dohc i have had the car for a year when i got it the oil sump was cracked and had a poor diy job on it over the last year i have found and replaced the oil sump i had the car mot two weeks ago and have been out in it but am hitting the oil sump on the road i know it sits low on the car can i lift the engine gear box around 1/2inch to stop this or can i change the ride high of the car to give me more clearance any advise will be appreciated this is my first kit car and the first year with it i have had all sorts of problems with electrics and running problems again any advise will be great thanks for your time

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if you have adjustable suspension then yes you can raise ride hight but this may affect the handling the best option is a littlt of both raise engine and gearbox and a little on suspension but if you are only looking for half an inch I would go for engine and box its the clearance between the gearbox and the chassis above the bell housing in the engine bay that is wot you need to keep an eye on

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Guest jelleyhead

Hi again i meant to ask as well what should the hight of the car be from the road to the bottom of the chassis just to see if the ride hight is right thanks again

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adjusting your ride height affects the camber of your wheels I look for dead up right but that's just me some people like it different also you are looking for your whish bones to be as level as you can get them which is why I chose to raise the engine and gearbox

Edited by tractor
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Guest Peter Kelly

Hi Darren, The problem you are experiencing by all super-spec builders/owners.

just winding up the suspension will wreck the handling of your car.

What i did was cut exactly one inch from the bottom of the sump and one inch out of the oil pick up pipe.

I also fitted a Land Rover oil filter remotely. It has a much larger capacity than the original.

I always keep the oil topped up to the full line on the dip stick. It has needed topping up only once in about two and a half years.

I have also fitted a sump guard for additional protection. This rarely comes into contact with large stones etc. but it does not matter anymore.

Other mods include swapping the original Zimmerrides for Avo Shocks with adjustable damping. I still have the rear ones to do.

I hope this has been helpful.

I'm sure I posted pics of these mods in the past.

 

All the best,

Peter. (Pete the Dog.)

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Guest jelleyhead

Yes this is very helpful i have got a small mig welder i have just started learning the art of welding can i weld a alloy sump with the mig welder or would it be best to get some body els to do this for me i appreciate your advice thanks peter

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I have a dohc but in a zero, I have fitted a shortened sump also lifted engine & gearbox about 30mm, scoop fitted to bonnet to fit engine in

also ground off the bottom of MT75 gearbox bellhousing so its level with base of sump.

 

The base of sump & gearbox are now level with bottom of chassis

HTH

photos of shortened sump

 

post-3784-0-33051000-1435090129_thumb.jpg

 

post-3784-0-69012800-1435090146_thumb.jpg

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Guest 2b cruising

Hi. To make up for oil capacity I fitted a 16 row oil cooler in the nose cone with big 16mm bore hose.

This more than makes up for the oil you loose by cutting the sump down.

This is the best way to go about getting a better ride hight.

The next stage if you need it would be a sump guard.

Welding ally with mig is a no no. The temp when mig welding is to high for aluminium.

It is possible but only by very experienced elders using pulse to keep the temp down.

The way to do it is by Tig. They use varying voltage machines for temp control.

The most important thing about ally welding is cleanliness. Followed by cleanliness. Then pure Argon gas to make the oxygen around the weld clean.

My Mig has varying voltage but I wouldn't even try it with that.

Many engineering shops or local elders would do this for you quite cheaply.

HTH, Ken

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