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Monocoque Cars Cracking Up!


Big Jim

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Hi Jim,

 

Commiserations old chap.

 

I’m sure you’ll be fixed and sorted soon enough.

 

Funnily enough I’ve seem a few like that now in the stainless steel monocoques.

 

At least plated up it will be stronger than original. – Wonder if it’s worth doing both sides at the same time?

 

Cheers

 

Lee

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Good luck Jim.

 

We are absolutely sure you will be able to sort out the problem very soon.

 

P.S. Now that you have some free time because you are not out driving yours does that mean you will come round and help us with ours.

 

P.P.S. Seriously if there is anything we can do to help, we will come round (with kettle of course) and help. Just give us a shout.

 

Nishka, Mark and Babe

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Working on the basis that prevention is preferable to

cure, is it worth adding some extra strength to my

monocoque tub before it starts cracking up and if so

which areas should I concentrate on?

Is this a widespread problem with the monocoque

chassis?

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is it worth adding some extra strength to my

monocoque tub before it starts cracking up

Yes!

Is this a widespread problem with the monocoque

chassis?

Yes!

which areas should I concentrate on

All the vertical welds that connect the sides of the car to both the front suspension mounting channel, and where the sides of the car meet the cockpit area. Also weld a piece of stainless across from the chassis top "rail" to each other "member" so thats at each 4 corners, the one that's just gone on mine, is the only one I've not already done :( ,,,,,,,,,,,,, (piccy of one of my front ones) (all monocoques)

If you've got a mark 3, 3A or mark 2, then check where the top wishbone pivot bar is held in the body "channel" the channel cracks from the holes where the pivot bar is held.

Check the rear suspension top mounting, it's basically a piece of angle iron bolted onto the end of the "chassis" and to the side of the boot, with one of the "U" bolts that hold the roll-over bar. it's not adequate, the angle iron twists, then finally rips out of the chassis rail. It needs considerably strengthening with extra plates and webs (I'll e-mail photo's to those that want them, PM me your e-mail address)

post-10-1094834307.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest chris brown

Well done Jim glad to hear you are back on the road but what’s this about heater I thought lot up North were tough and could stand the cold :p :p

 

PS Repacking the exhaust brought it down from the 105.3 that you tested it at Donington to 98 when tested at Barkston. Thanks for the advice on how to do it.

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Guest salty_monk

Brought mine down from about 103 - 100, you must have done it better than me!!

 

By the way, I've seen it, it's only a small heater honest!! :lol: :lol:

 

Glad to hear the car is back in action Jim - you missed out on a fantastic day Saturday..

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Well done Jim glad to hear you are back on the road

thanks for that, I was getting pushed a bit from a disreputable gang of NW Hoodies.

what’s this about heater I thought lot up North were tough and could stand the cold

When I had the Pinto engine in the car, I had a Polo heater fitted. For those who have not been out in sub zero weather yet, you'll find out that you can wrap up warm with pullies, coats, sharves, hats & gloves etc. but the cold air comes into the car and swirls around the legs, going right up the trouser legs, but with a heater fitted, you get a nice pocket of warm air coming up from the footwell instead.

Mind you, some people take their cars off the road once the temparature goes below 15ºC ;)

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Guest salty_monk

Was certainly "chilly" on the way up to Barkston on Friday night at around midnight... (even with the hood up, Emily was with me & boy did she moan!) Have got a heater ready to go in myself but need to do some fuse & relay relocation first....

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