Wet Tunnel

[Guest allbejay]

I've just started fitting my tunnel panels on my 2b and was looking down to where the gearbox goes between the 2 upright bars of the chassis and wondered what is there to stop water from rising up around the gear box and sitting in the tunnel section of my hood, i know it's going to be painted but a water trap never helps, okay so it may run straight down the tunnel and out the back but after years of this it wouldn't do it any favours, Anyone else had any suggestions to this

[Guest Daren.F]

You could follow Rizla's example and not go out in the rain

Or paint it well and splash some wax oil around and don't replace the gear box oil seal.

[Guest bloke]

can u cut the floor out of the tunnel - ive often wondered about this

[ibrooks]

Not without replacing it with a frame to put the strength back in. You could get away with cutting some holes in it if you flare the edges to maintain strength.

 

I've gone for the paint it well and assume that it's either going to be moving in which case water won't be sat still or it's guaranteed not to sit level so any water will run out on it's own. The real problem area is going to be where the tunnel sides meet the floor as water will be able to sit between he two panels (think about where monocoque cars rust). You really need to seal that area but beware because anything that is desiged to keep water out is likely to become something that keeps water in. I'm also going to be keeping an eye on the whole thing once I start using it (happy now Jim) to find and stay on top of areas like this.

 

Iain

[Big Jim]

once I start using it (happy now Jim)

When will that be then Ian??

[Joel]

My tunnel gets very hot (perhaps I should rephrase that )

 

I would have thought most water going in there gets evaperated?

 

It does a good job of cooking my left leg anyway.

[Guest paul mercer]

Once you have bolted the angle irons across the width of the car, you can use that as your strength, and remove the surplus material on the bottom of the tunnel. At least when your prop breaks you have easy access. I've just had to cut my floor out as i've just described.

 

Paul

[Guest chris brown]

It does a good job of cooking my left leg anyway

Very pleasant in winter but don’t try driving too far with shorts on in summer. I also have never found the need for a heater, it’s a case of getting rid of the heat rather than introducing more. Also with the pressure of the air going down the tunnel I suspect any water would soon end up out the back.

[Guest Petemate]

Hi All

As Paul says, surely with robust (well, they are in my case) members bolted across the chassis, you can cut away the tunnel without compromising the strength? Also, I reckon the 2b is so strong chassis-wise it probably wouldn't matter. (Cue for lots of shooting down...)

Petemate

 

P.S. I have thought of putting a couple of drain holes at the front, shaped so as not to collect water and drag it in.

[Guest chris brown]

I reckon the 2b is so strong chassis-wise it probably wouldn't matter

I don’t think I'd like to try it Pete but cutting out inspection holes like Iain describes should be ok, but cutting out the whole length leaves only the riveted on tunnel sides and two widely spaced angle irons. No not for me.

[Guest Petemate]

Hi Chris

My tunnel is bolted to the floor with M6 setscrews & locknuts. However, I think you are probably right - I'll stick to my drainholes plan, even though my floor X-members are: front, 2" angle; rear, a bl***y great 4" wide steel strip 5mm thick....

Pete