Alterations

[Guest macca]

I'm not sure whether this is such a good idea but I'll be doing it anyway!!!!

 

The plan is to cut out the two tubes that pass over the diff. I want to remove the tubes from the plate that supports the rear of the diff to the rear of the car. I then plan to 'beef up' the plate and refit the tubes level with the lowest tube on the rear of the chassis. I have spoken to an engineer/welder friend who said it should be possible and is willing to do the welding for me (don't fancy risking this myself).

 

This will allow me to fit my new fuel tank and improve boot space.

 

Details and pictures are under the chassis section in my build diary:My Webpage

 

Any objections???

 

P.S might make room for a battery too

Edited June 12, 2005 by macca

[Guest Battery Bill]

Macca

Is this what yhou mean cut out the tube arrowed and re route the whole lot to meet the spare wheel tube below?

The only thing I think regarding doing this is that you won't really gain much extra space as the Diff will still be in the way.

I know we could have made our boot much deeper than it is but we were a bit over cautious in case the SVA man had a problem with our boot being so close to the bits and bobs around the diff.

Oh and if you put your battery in the back there is plenty of room at the side without moving your chassis tubes

Good luck

[Guest macca]

Bill

 

I am only planning on moving the parts of the tubes that are behind the diff. This will allow me to fit the fuel tank behind the diff. Ill edit some photos with arrows later in the week to make it more clear.

 

Yeah I can see lots of potential places for the Battery back there

 

Macca

[Big Jim]

Macca,

 

The tubes you are planning to cut out, are the strength of the rear of your car. If you cut those out then you only have the top tube around the boot to give any support to the back of the car. Those tubes aren't just to hold the back end of the diff, The whole chassis is the strength, like a box, and you're intending cutting one side away, sorry but in my opinion it's certainly not a good idea, and if Mr SVA man sees it, he'll be asking questions I think!

 

No, don't do it!

 

Jim

[Guest Guy]

Hi Macco,

 

Those tubes aren’t just to hang the diff from, when you accelerate, the force that is trying to turn the rear wheels forward is also trying to turn the diff and rear sub frame backwards so you'd better make sure the back end of the diff is well secured otherwise it will bend it's way down towards the road on acceleration

 

Also, if you fit the tank behind the diff and get rear ended (oo-er ) the tank can burst .

[Guest chris brown]

Sounds to me like you are going to seriously weaken the chassis and that is NOT a good idea

[Guest Jaffer]

Hi Macca,

 

From your photos, it looks like the Sub-k Chassis is quite different from the 2B at the back end at least. From what you decribe, provided the welding and the formation of joints is done correctly, you should not loose any strength in the rear end. If I have interpreted your description correctly, it sounds like you are modifying your chassis to be very similar to a 2B. But like the other Guys have warned.... Don't be tempted to under-engineer this section!!

 

Let's have a look at those edited photos...

 

Jaff.

[Guest chris brown]

Don't be tempted to under-engineer this section!!

Having just been pointed to your web site by an other member I now see what you are intending to do and IMHO unless you put in more steel than you take out as it will no longer be in line with the force applied. I cannot see how you are going to get enough strength and rigidity into it. There are immense twisting forces in that area. Therefore my advice would be to leave it as it is.

[Guest macca]

Looks like we have mixed views about this. Check out the updated chassis section for the proposed design.

Chassis Section

 

 

Ill be interested to hear more comments. (And hopefully meet a few of you in Newark)

 

Macca

[Big Jim]

that looks like it should be OK, but I don't see what you're gaining?

[Guest macca]

that looks like it should be OK, but I don't see what you're gaining?

Jim,

 

At the minute if i put the fuel tank in with out moving the tubes i'll have next to no boot space (enough room for a jack and a 4 pack ). Also the top of the tank is nearly at the top of the boot lid, leaving no room for a filler neck and certainly no way to fit the 'lovely' aero filler cap.

 

By moving the tubes Ill have enough room for a couple of 24 packs The tank can go inbetween the tubes

 

 

I've looked at putting the tank under these tubes but it is far too close to the floor

 

Perhaps I should get a trailer!!!!!!

 

Macca

Edited June 15, 2005 by macca

[Guest racman]

Hi

What you are proposing looks ok but I think I would try and get some tubing bent and make up similar to the 2b setup.

 

jeff

[Guest Battery Bill]

Macca

I agree it looks solid enough but I can't see how you will gain boot space

What tank are you using ? And would it not be easier to modify a tank to suit?

Either way good luck to you its always nice when someone takes an alternative route well done

[Guest Jaffer]

Macca,

 

Your proposal looks plenty strong enough for the intended purpose IMHO

 

[Just a thought... another, perhaps smaller, bar/angle section across the back at 'green tube' level would provide a good fixing for your boot floor.... to help take the weight of 48 cans ]

 

... Go for it!

 

Jaff

[Guest macca]

What tank are you using ? And would it not be easier to modify a tank to suit?

Bill

 

The tank is an 8 gallon plastic job. I bought it without really looking at the dimensions :angry: we live and learn!!!!! I has the fittings for the hoses moulded in to it and dont think it would be that easy to modify.

 

Im back in Coventry tomorrow afternoon and will have another good look at things.

 

Macca