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danielbrookes

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Everything posted by danielbrookes

  1. Its definately possible to use reconditioned parts, I think it depends on what is definated as "one part". For example, I see drive train is classed as an entire part - thats a lot of different reconditioned parts combined. I've been reading Richards blog (awesome read BTW) and if you look on the parts list here; http://richards-gbs-zero.blogspot.co.uk/p/parts.htmlhe lists which parts were taken from a donar car and refurbed as new. He has a new plate, so it is doable.
  2. Just spoke to GBS and I'll order one from them as its OK for new reg, makes sense to speak to the horses mouth
  3. Yea I've been reading that thread actually but I didnt think that was about the actual steering column, I'll have another read now.
  4. Hmmm. Its kind of open to interpretation. Are there any alternative new columns I can use, for example Ford Focus? I dont understand how its possible to get a new plate without an alternative to the Sierra steering column. Appologies for the questions I just want to get it right.
  5. Thanks and I'll have a propper read of the above and make a decision.
  6. Thanks, sorry not iva you're right. I am building with all new parts as I want a new reg number, not age related or q. I've read a little on what's allowed to be reconditioned but quickly got confused. My logic though is that it's not possible to buy a new steering column, only reconditioned so I am thinking what's the difference between gbs reconditioned and somewhere else. I'll keep looking on eBay as there seems to be a few bargains about.
  7. Evening, hopefully an easy one. There's a Mrk1 column, coweling, switches and shaft on EBay at the moment which looks pretty reasonable. My question is will this fit my zero gt? I am assuming it will. Also, I am building a new plate car and without screwtonising the iva rules right now - I am assuming irrespective of whether I get a refurb from gbs or eBay, they are both technically second hand so will be the same net result as far as IVA goes? Thanks, Danny
  8. Thanks for all the replies and suggestions, finally got this sorted - well, I will have by tomorrow. I've just finished assembling my new press and tested one of the studs, straight in without any issues at all! The press I purchased only cost me £69 delivered and I'll definitely use it again so worth the investment. Seems ideal and the quality is good too, I bought this http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004DDPSGQ/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item. Chuffed, I'll be careful to make sure I don't bend the flanges as I press studs in.
  9. That does make sense because everything I read is telling me it should be much easier than this! I know the new ones I have are 13.1mm as thats what I bought, my vernier gague also says just over 13mm (its not that accurate) and I would say the old ones are slightly smaller, maybe 12.9mm. I dont suppose you found out what the two different sizes are? One is 13.1 and the other?
  10. Thanks for the offer, thats really kind - it is a shame you are so far away. I need to get some replacement studs now also as I have wrecked two of them now, bugger. Cup of tea time and then I'll decide what I am going to do.
  11. Had a bad back this last week so haven't had time to try this again till now. What is the default spline size for these? I am starting to think the ones I have are oversize, they are 13.1mm. Disaster today, tried heating hub in oven and also blow torching round the hole as well as freezing studs - I've just snapped one stud clean in half and no way are they going in via hammering. Something's not right.
  12. Hmmm, good question. They certainly aren't described as oversize so assume not. They are supposed to be like for like replacements, only 47mm in length. I've managed to do one hub already so they definitely fit, it's just the others are being a right pig. I'll see how I get on with propper lump hammer.
  13. yup they are Ford, good question though! I'm going to buy a propper lump hammer today. Maybe after a good nights sleep and fresh mind today I will have more success
  14. I bent the handle on my vice trying to do the same today lol
  15. Thanks, I tried already to tap them in but you now have me thinking. Perhaps my choice of hammer isn't correct (claw!) I guess I should use a lump, that may be why I am struggling. I'm going to give them another go tomorrow before purchasing a press. The old studs were rusty and the threads on some looked questionable, plus they seemed short so decided best to replace.
  16. Well I managed to get the studs out last week, tried getting new ones in today and what an absolute nightmare. I've done one hub and it was an absolute challenge to say the least. I'm going to purchase a press, there seem to be some cheap ones about. I've tried using washers and wheel nut and so far I've threaded one stud, wrecked one wheel nut and I'm beyond frustrated so downed tools. I'm hoping a cheap press will do the job as all hubs are now off the car. Beer earned I think!
  17. Thanks Peter - do you have to take the hubs back off the car to change the studs? I've literally just finished putting the front calipers on and the rears last month so I really, really dont want to take it all apart again.
  18. Hmm thanks Kevin, I haven't purchased wheels yet so unsure which ones I will end up with. I really don't fancy replacing them as its a lot of work. I was hoping there would be a standard but it sounds like it depends on wheels.
  19. Hmmm. Looking at a few other threads on here I think I may need to change my wheel studs for longer ones. Anyone able to confirm if they definitely need changing or if it will simply limit the wheel choice I have? I really don't fancy swapping them but will do if required. With disk on hub there is 22mm from disk face to end of stud? Thanks for help, again! Hopefully a question will pop up I can answer so I can give a little back
  20. Thanks, I've just checked my build CD from factory and it looks like they have used a large washer on the outside however key difference is my panels are aluminium, the pics are stainless.
  21. Hi, As per title, whats the correct\neatest way to do the above? I think I will use a penny washer for the engine bay side, but I was wondering is there something specific I need to use one the outside as it will be visible? I read a couple of old threads about a bracket being SVA complient but I dont think they apply to the GBS Zero. I see these on kitspares: http://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=43_9&product_id=801&car=43 Any other alteratives or suggestions other people have used? Thanks in advance Daniel
  22. Ahhh, I've just clicked and I know exactly what you mean by drill through dummy strut now. I was thinking you meant drill through strut and into bolt, I get you now and can visualise what you mean. Thanks for the eBay link too. Oh and thanks everyone else, some helpful reading.
  23. Thanks, I think I'll be getting some roll pins in addition to what I have already done (nyloc nut + 8.8 bolt). Belt and braces as they say, thanks. Any chance either florin or Ian could post a quick pic up? I'm a little confused where to put the pins exactly.
  24. Thanks guys, I'll leave the washer off.
  25. Quick question, I have my pinch bolt - long enough for a lock nut other side plus at least three threads. Is it wise or even necessary to put a spring washer under the head? I will have enough length but unsure if it's needed or indeed not a good idea.
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